71 Ignition Switch

[Seth G.]

Developed two problems simultaneously on my automatic, base car. First, upon placing key in "start" position, it does not spring back to run position. Second, the key alarm switch stopped working. Can anyone tell me if the spring release problem is in the lock cylinder or ignition switch itself and if these problems sound inter-related? Thank you

[Edward J.]

Re: 71 Ignition Switch

Seth, the ignition switch under the column is the spring loaded portion. the key and cylinder are not spring loaded. The switch under the column has a slotted adjustment, maybe the retaining 5/16 head bolts loosened? One other note there is one with a stud for the high beam so you may have to remove high beam switch to check or replace ignition switch.

[Jim S.]

Re: 71 Ignition Switch

You don't have to worry about the headlight dimmer switch. Yours is on the floor and wasn't placed on the steering column until the 1977 model year. Also, you didn't mention if your have a standard (non-adjustable) steering column or a T&T. They both operate on the same principles but are different in their operation.

Both have a plastic sector inside the column head that is rotated as you turn your ignition key. The plastic sector drives a toothed, die cast rack. The rack is attached to a rod that reaches down to the ignition switch that is mounted on top of the steering column jacket. The rack translates the ignition key rotation motion to a fore and aft movement. The standard steering column has a "push" motion to get to START. The T&T column has a "pull" motion to place the ignition switch in the START position. So the ignition switch is mechanized differently from the std column to the T&T. I would drop the steering column down from the dash and see if that loosen things up.

The spring return inside the ignition switch (out of the START position) should be strong enough that you can feel the pressure on the ignition key when you rotate the key and lock cylinder. Is it possible that you did some work under the dash and may somehow jammed the rod that connects the rack to the ignition switch? It is also possible that someone has sprayed WD40, powdered graphite, and other unknown substances to "lubricate" the lock cylinder through the years. Possibly it is gummed up.

T&T columns have been notorious for broken racks. It might be possible that your rack is broken and is jammed such that it doesn't come out of the START position. With the column dropped down from the dash, you should be able to see a direct relationship between rotating the ignition key and movement of the ignition switch rod.

If your problem is a broken rack, you will need to disassemble the steering column head in order to replace the rack. I have a series of steering column disassembly and repair papers for both the standard and the T&T steering columns. All of the papers can be found at the following Corvette Faqs website. Here is a link. http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/?cat=5

I can be a bit more specific when you indicate the type of column in your Vette.
Jim

[Mark E.]

Re: 71 Ignition Switch

Jim,

I just visited your website and was pleasantly surprised with all of the helpful "how-to" articles. Thanks for putting this together.