I am doing a frame-off on a 1969 convertible and need some help on the wheel well and engine compartment. I have scrubbed the wheel wells and the engine bay. The wheel wells seem to have a 'glossy' black out while the engine compartment is more of a dull finish. Could someone tell me what the finish should for each area? And, is there a recommended 'rattle can' that others have used that met with approval when judged? Thanks for any information, Steve
1969 Black Out
Collapse
X
-
Re: 1969 Black Out
I am doing a frame-off on a 1969 convertible and need some help on the wheel well and engine compartment. I have scrubbed the wheel wells and the engine bay. The wheel wells seem to have a 'glossy' black out while the engine compartment is more of a dull finish. Could someone tell me what the finish should for each area? And, is there a recommended 'rattle can' that others have used that met with approval when judged? Thanks for any information, Steve
Check out the pictures in Patrick Hulsts album to see what the under coating should look like along with the entire wheel well. They frankly were not too pretty from the factory. Original under coating was thick and rough and sparsely applied. Others can pipe in on how to duplicate the factory under coating. It requires a special gun and 3M under coating. I generally saved the original under coating on my 70 and lightly applied a little new.
Bill- Top
-
Re: 1969 Black Out
Hi Steve,
I agree with Bill that looking at Patrick's 72 Bowtie car pictures should give you a good idea of the extent of the undercoating and black-out in the wheel wells.
I've heard it described as being done on the places in the wheel wells that a prospective customer would see as he walked around the car 'inspecting' it. Even that description may be a little generous when looking at what little blackout is on original cars.Tom Russo
78 SA NCRS 5 Star Bowtie78 Pace Car L82 M2100 MY/TR/Conv- Top
Comment
-
Re: 1969 Black Out
Steve, The rattle cans of undercoating does not have the same thickness of the originals, and really never heard anyone say much positive about what can be done to duplicate the factory. about the only thing that may come close is stone guard from 3M its used on the lower portion od the rocker panels before paint.New England chapter member, 63 Convert. 327/340- Chapter/Regional/national Top Flight, 72 coupe- chapter and regional Top Flight.- Top
Comment
-
Re: 1969 Black Out
Hi,
I found the same problem with the presently available cans of undercoating that Edward mentioned.
I did some experimenting on test panels with the distance I held the can from the surface, and also the length of time between coats.
I was able to achieve a pretty good appearance, but not a 100% duplication.
Regards,
Alan71 Coupe, 350/270, 4 speed
Mason Dixon Chapter
Chapter Top Flight October 2011- Top
Comment
-
Re: 1969 Black Out
As a fascinating aside, my 70 has quite a bit of original undercoating on the passenger side wheel wells and absolutely no original undercoating on the driver's side front wheel well and next to none on the driver's side rear wheel well. I am thinking the UAW worker doing the driver's side was on break or maybe asleep on the job.
The original undercoating is very thick and the texture is pretty rough. If fact very rough.
I think Alan may have suggested that I save the original if at all possible and that is what I did.
Like Alan I played around with spray can under coating with limited success but not terrible either. Had to hold the can about 2' from the surface with several very thin coats to build it up.
Tried three different types. 3M 08883, Por 15, and Transtar undercoating. The Transtar results were the best IMHO.
The good stuff by 3M in a spray can is available in the UK. Alas our EPA has banned the 3M undercoating that would be closest to what the factory used. Think the 3M number is 08877. It is not available in the states.
Bill- Top
Comment
Comment