Repair of lip on inside hood

[Dan H.]

Hi, I have an 8 inch piece of the thin inside hood drain lip missing. This is the part on the fender that sticks up about 1/8 inch on the inside which drains water down towards the front of fender. Does anyone make a 'repair' piece or kit to help with the repair. This might have been missing when the car was new but no one fixed it due to its very fragile nature. It is on the right upper edge just after the 90 curve heading towards the front. Thanks for any advice.
Dan

[Bob R.]

Re: Repair of lip on inside hood

I don't know if anyone makes a repair kit but you could try making a repair yourself. Make a mold of the same lip in a section that is in good condition using plaster. Cover the fiber glass with plastic wrap to protect it from the plaster. Then use some resin and fiberglass mat and form to the plaster mold. Trim it to fit and adhere it with resin to the body. You will have to paint it to match.

[Monte M.]

Re: Repair of lip on inside hood

Dan,
Which fender is it. I just did a fender repair on a 63. Part of the existing fender was aftermarket. It did not fit right, so I cut the whole fender off and replaced it with a fender off an original 63. My point is a good portion of the fender I took off could be used to repair small things.

Why don't you send me a few pictures to mbusiness@comcast.net of what exactly you are dealing with. If I have that piece on the fender that was removed OI will send it over to you.

Edit: I have the passenger fender for parts.

Monte

[Joe R.]

Re: Repair of lip on inside hood

Dan,
Here's what I do to repair the lips. Take 1" masking tape and overlay three or four strips to make it stiff and apply verticle on the inside lip. Use the 3M bonding adhesive (two part with mixing gun) and make a lip to the outside of the tape where the lip is missing. Remove the tape in 30 minutes and let harden over night. With a block and 80 grit sandpaper sand the inside and top to conform to the existing lips. Then take a Dremmel Tool and form the side of the lip toward the outside. Sand, prime and paint. Much easier than cutting and replacing the entire edge of the fender.

JR

[Dan H.]

Re: Repair of lip on inside hood

Joe, found 3M 08115 2 part bonding adhesive on EBAY, it has a long mixing nozzle tube included. Will that work?
Monte, it's the RH lip from after the curve going forward. Might be easier to form the missing chunks using Joe's method. I found some thin aluminum angle and with some wax paper can C clamp them down to make a mold for the new lip sections.

[Tom B.]

Re: Repair of lip on inside hood

On midyear cars isnt there a diimple that sticks up in the hood lip area? Where is it and does anybody have a pic?

[Joe R.]

Re: Repair of lip on inside hood

Joe, found 3M 08115 2 part bonding adhesive on EBAY, it has a long mixing nozzle tube included. Will that work?
Monte, it's the RH lip from after the curve going forward. Might be easier to form the missing chunks using Joe's method. I found some thin aluminum angle and with some wax paper can C clamp them down to make a mold for the new lip sections.

Dan, yes thats the 3M number I have used in the past. Let us know what you think after the repair.

JR

[Richard M.]

Re: Repair of lip on inside hood

I've used Joe's method with built up masking tape on small areas like that. Works great. Epoxy is a good choice as it is a strong repair and bonds well to the polyester based fiberglass. The only issue I've had with the 8115 3M product is that it flows easily and is a thin product, so you have to create a good pocket to retain it while curing. 3M data sheets state that you can use a heat gun to accelerate curing time. IIRC, 8115 has a 90 minute work time and a 24 hour cure time. I think 8116 is less. I've used both on major panel replacements and front end swaps.

I use mat and resin for major areas for proper strength.
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I also use a Evercoat product, Vette Panel Adhesive. Again, with forms made of tape and then build up and forming later. This product is a bit more solid and if you let it kick off on the mixing board for a few minutes it thickens up, but not too long or it's in the rubbish.

Here are a few areas I've used VPA on after using the mat/resin for strength.
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After forming and sanding, I drilled for the soft aluminum rivets and used my air riveter hammer on it and no problems.
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