Just reviewed the TDB archives on replacing the long fuel line that runs from the fuel tank to the fuel pump, since I'm faced with that daunting task and don't have the ability to completely remove the body from the chassis. There was some concensus that the job can be done by loosening the driver's side body mount bolts, removing the passenger side bolts, and raising the body to get 6" -8" of clearance. I would appreciate any suggestions on how to get that much space without causing any damage. Also, one poster suggested cutting the steel line and using a rubber hose to reconnect. This will not be a judged car, so appearance is not a primary concern, but I wonder if such a connection isn't just inviting other problems down the road?
C2 Fuel Line Replacement
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Re: C2 Fuel Line Replacement
If you are going to raise the body 6" - 8" then you are removing the body from the chassis. You will have to remove everything that holds the two components together. Bumpers, Radiator support, exhaust, steering col., brake lines, etc. I would think if you leave anything connected the stress would cause something to break. I have seen someone piece in a rubber hose but those are your only options. Even the factory used a rubber hose at the fuel tank and the fuel pump.- Top
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Re: C2 Fuel Line Replacement
Joel:
Lifting the body is not easy, but will provide the best long term solution. However, there are a few folks who have installed a one piece all steel fuel line with the body still on the frame, although it was not pretty. But it was not bad either.
On the Corvette Forum C2 Section we discussed a few times in the past how a new fuel line can be installed in TWO pieces with the body still on the frame. This requires a straight or ell tubing union to join the halves. If you use a Parker or Swagelok brand (industrial rated) it will never leak or have any structural issues. One guy on the forum actually took this a step further and used a metal sleeve to join the two halves, and soldered in the sleeve. He did this in the area covered by the "road hazard spring armor" near the rear kickup such that none except him could ever detect it.
If you plan to keep the car forever, and have the time (or $$$$), then lift the body and do it right and once. If you cannot do this for some reason, other reasonable alternatives are available. Go to the Corvette Forum and search the archives to read the details.
Larry- Top
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Re: C2 Fuel Line Replacement
Thanks, Bob. I recognize that raising the body is, in fact, removing it from the chassis; I was just wondering how to get 6" - 8" of clearance as was suggested in earlier threads, without access to a lift. I have disconnected pretty much everything; more concerned now about stressing the body itself.- Top
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Re: C2 Fuel Line Replacement
Thanks, Larry and John for your comments and suggestions. At this point, looking at all alternatives. NCRS member Scott Pfuehler also offered some great assistance via PM and follow-up phone call. Once again, you all demonstrate why NCRS is such a great organization!- Top
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Re: C2 Fuel Line Replacement
If everything is disconnected the body will lift straight up. You don't need a lift for that (although it makes it easier) but you will need a chain fall or some other means to lift the body and some way to secure it in the air while you work on the fuel line. You may be able to use a couple of floor jacks and some wood to spread the load and just lift one side of the car but only if everything is disconnected so as not to stress the fiberglass.- Top
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Re: C2 Fuel Line Replacement
Thanks again, Bob. With neither lift nor chain fall available as an option, I figured I'd try the floor jacks and wood approach. I need to go over the car and make sure everything is disconnected and give it a go.- Top
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Re: C2 Fuel Line Replacement
You'll find that midyear body lift checklist on Kevin MacKay's "Corvette Repair" website, in the "Tech Tips" section.- Top
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Re: C2 Fuel Line Replacement
Replacing the fuel line is a pain even with a bare chassis, and it would seem nearly impossible with the body lifted just a foot or so. I would suggest using stainless steel braided flexible line available from race car supply shops as an alternative. You could even put a flair fitting on the piece of steel line visible under the hood to join it to the braided line. This approach would give you the safety and ability to avoid closing under suction that were the reasons the factory used a long run of steel line inside the frame. The stuff may be a little pricey, but not compared to the labor of removing and replacing the body.- Top
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