More Rearend help

[David M.]

Hi All,
Stock 78, C3 chassis, 350/TH350. (Non Gymkhana).
I did quite a bit of homework on this and cant seem to find a definate difinitive correct answer. I searched here and google and the AIM. What are we missing here:

The last posting on this car we dealt with the different size strut rod bushings and all that fun...well the car now has slop fit polyurethane bushings. My local mechanic said it was OK. Not sure I believe any of that. Rear end is more or less buttoned up now.

New prob. Parking brake. All new cables, springs, shoes, every last bit. Evidently SUPPOSED to be assembled BEFORE the bearing and hub get pressed together permanently. We CAN NOT get these L shaped forcing strut levers into place

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/3312121...lpid=82&chn=ps

"Actuating Levers" according to
https://www.google.com/search?q=1978...%3B1500%3B1300


Looked at videos, pictures, assembly manual, etc. Folks say the pin joint L shaped Actuating Lever slides in place thru the backing plate. HELL no. The backing plate opening is not even large enough to pass the replica L piece pin/rivet. Even if dismantled. Originals also will not go in. Tried loosening the wheel hub and brake anchor fasteners to move things out but the hub is still right there and the L's will NOT turn the corner and go in. I am ready to cut a new slot in the backing plate to allow insertion of the L piece. We are not inclined to remove the half shafts and rear bearing assemblies and take them apart again. Without a press.

Any tips on getting these "L" pieces in place appreciated.


Also the anchor for the park brakes [at the top in the above link to a diagram] looks like a oh 1/2" bolt thru a beasty tapered thing with two flats, which has to be oriented properly. However, it cannot be removed with the hub in place and the assembler did not buy new or derust these, so the bolt and tapered shoulder thing with flats are one and turn as one and so we cannot choose the final orientation of the shouldered part. Will the rotor fit over with this shoulder part oriented wrong, are are we taking wheel bearings out again anyhow?

Or, 4" cutter and remove the offending part?

Any and all advice is welcomed TX!

[Gary R.]

Re: More Rearend help

Hi Dave
I can tell you every singe SS parking brake kit I buy I have to fit. Many times the new backing plates have narrow slots and the levers don't fit. The other things to check are the hooks on the springs, some are too long. The star wheels I have to face in the lathe because sometimes they're too long and the shoe hit the rotor hats, the hole down pins are stamped and not clean. They have to be filed into an arrow head.

The anchor block should be ok but you won't get a new lock on it with the spindle in place. It is a 1/2-20 thread.

Don't think you will be able to remove the spindle and repack the bearings to reuse. If you remove the spindle expect to setup new bearings.

If you want to go over questions just contact me and I'll be glad to cover the whole job.

[David M.]

Re: More Rearend help

Hi Dave
I can tell you every singe SS parking brake kit I buy I have to fit. Many times the new backing plates have narrow slots and the levers don't fit. The other things to check are the hooks on the springs, some are too long. The star wheels I have to face in the lathe because sometimes they're too long and the shoe hit the rotor hats, the hole down pins are stamped and not clean. They have to be filed into an arrow head.

The anchor block should be ok but you won't get a new lock on it with the spindle in place. It is a 1/2-20 thread.

Don't think you will be able to remove the spindle and repack the bearings to reuse. If you remove the spindle expect to setup new bearings.

If you want to go over questions just contact me and I'll be glad to cover the whole job.

Thanks Gary we wrestled with it and got to all back together. Next time I'm buying the arms fully assembled if they exist.

[Joe R.]

Re: More Rearend help

The task of changing the parking brakes or installing a SS Parking Brake Kit on a disc brake Corvette without removing the spindle is next to impossible. I watched the video a couple of times after a friend attempted the feat. He now rides without a parking brake at all.
Going to all the trouble without removing the spindle and servicing it also is not worth the time invested.
There are several that will rebuild your trailing arms or exchange them for rebuilt or new! These are Bairs at 1 814 683-4223 or Ikerds at 1 812 279-4828. The above will send you special boxes for shipping your arms to them.

JR

[Joe L.]

Re: More Rearend help

Hi All,
Stock 78, C3 chassis, 350/TH350. (Non Gymkhana).
I did quite a bit of homework on this and cant seem to find a definate difinitive correct answer. I searched here and google and the AIM. What are we missing here:

The last posting on this car we dealt with the different size strut rod bushings and all that fun...well the car now has slop fit polyurethane bushings. My local mechanic said it was OK. Not sure I believe any of that. Rear end is more or less buttoned up now.

New prob. Parking brake. All new cables, springs, shoes, every last bit. Evidently SUPPOSED to be assembled BEFORE the bearing and hub get pressed together permanently. We CAN NOT get these L shaped forcing strut levers into place

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/3312121...lpid=82&chn=ps

"Actuating Levers" according to
https://www.google.com/search?q=1978...%3B1500%3B1300


Looked at videos, pictures, assembly manual, etc. Folks say the pin joint L shaped Actuating Lever slides in place thru the backing plate. HELL no. The backing plate opening is not even large enough to pass the replica L piece pin/rivet. Even if dismantled. Originals also will not go in. Tried loosening the wheel hub and brake anchor fasteners to move things out but the hub is still right there and the L's will NOT turn the corner and go in. I am ready to cut a new slot in the backing plate to allow insertion of the L piece. We are not inclined to remove the half shafts and rear bearing assemblies and take them apart again. Without a press.

Any tips on getting these "L" pieces in place appreciated.


Also the anchor for the park brakes [at the top in the above link to a diagram] looks like a oh 1/2" bolt thru a beasty tapered thing with two flats, which has to be oriented properly. However, it cannot be removed with the hub in place and the assembler did not buy new or derust these, so the bolt and tapered shoulder thing with flats are one and turn as one and so we cannot choose the final orientation of the shouldered part. Will the rotor fit over with this shoulder part oriented wrong, are are we taking wheel bearings out again anyhow?

Or, 4" cutter and remove the offending part?

Any and all advice is welcomed TX!

David-------

One thing I've noted: at least some of the stainless steel actuating levers are slightly THICKER in cross section than the originals. This compounds the fitment and installation problems.