Removal of rusted hose nipples?

[Joe L.]

Re: Removal of rusted hose nipples?

What I have found was not rust but the white corrosion between the fitting and the aluminum.

Dom

Dom------


VERY common in these instances. The "white corrosion" is aluminum oxide, its conversion from the aluminum metal accelerated by galvanic corrosion.

[William G.]

Re: Removal of rusted hose nipples?

Dom,

Thanks. While I am not in a rush need for this manifold, as I'm still in the process of removing the non original engine and still building the original back up, I do have the time to try getting the corrosion and rust build up to release.
What you have said is mostly true. A good friend of mine used to heat the external threaded material and then quickly cool the internal threaded part with cold water, or ice. This causes the outside to remain larger while the inside/ mail thread to shrink. I know this works on bolts in iron blocks, but whether it would work with aluminum manifolds and steel fittings, I'm not sure.
If I can find a piece of rubber, I will make a sealed plate to close off the water jacket on that side of the manifold. I'm going to try filling the back side of the fitting with Coca Cola, which is a mild phosphoric acid. That may weep into the threads and help to release them.

Yes, I understand that I will have to clean up the threads. Plan to look for a 1/2" pipe tap tomorrow. This is so frustrating at the moment, as I had no problem getting the bypass fitting out and also the temperature sending unit. It is now down to the heater hose fitting.

Bill

[Jim S.]

Re: Removal of rusted hose nipples?

Jim------


Well, you did Jerry a favor because he didn't want to do it, anyway.

I hear you , but as I said , if I knew then what I know now , Jerry would have done them ! Like me or not !!

Jim

[Jim S.]

Re: Removal of rusted hose nipples?

Dom,

Thanks. While I am not in a rush need for this manifold, as I'm still in the process of removing the non original engine and still building the original back up, I do have the time to try getting the corrosion and rust build up to release.
What you have said is mostly true. A good friend of mine used to heat the external threaded material and then quickly cool the internal threaded part with cold water, or ice. This causes the outside to remain larger while the inside/ mail thread to shrink. I know this works on bolts in iron blocks, but whether it would work with aluminum manifolds and steel fittings, I'm not sure.
If I can find a piece of rubber, I will make a sealed plate to close off the water jacket on that side of the manifold. I'm going to try filling the back side of the fitting with Coca Cola, which is a mild phosphoric acid. That may weep into the threads and help to release them.

Yes, I understand that I will have to clean up the threads. Plan to look for a 1/2" pipe tap tomorrow. This is so frustrating at the moment, as I had no problem getting the bypass fitting out and also the temperature sending unit. It is now down to the heater hose fitting.

Bill

Bill ,

Keep on plugging , or in this case unplugging As you can see from the responses above , you are not alone in your frustration. Small as that consolation might be ! One way or another they do come out !

Jim

[Gary C.]

Re: Removal of rusted hose nipples?

Bill,

What your friend did with heat and then cool down with ice can now be better accomplished with heat and then use CRC Freeze Off.

Before Freeze Off I used wart remover freeze spray.

If Freeze Off doesn't work, then it's the slice and dice chisel method.

Gary
....

[John D.]

Re: Removal of rusted hose nipples?

Sorry I did not read all the posts. Here's what my helper does to remove the pesky fittings.
Clamps the baseplate/intake in a huge hydralic press sandwiched between two pieces of 2x12" wood.
We use Aero Kroil penetrating oil. Soak the fittings big time.
Instead of heating around the outside area of the fitting try something new we learned. Heat the fitting itself. Tru and put the heat in the center of the fitting. Yes I know this is against everything we learned but try it.
Like magic the fittings come out. The hardest one to remove is the water pump bypass fitting. The round one with the screw driver slot.
As I said before I have no idea why someone invented such a fitting but that's what we have to deal with.

If you cut fittings out and get into the threads you can expect anti-freeze leaks unless you expoxy the fitting in. Been there.
Heat means a big torch setup. Propane is a waste. Mapp gas is very hot though.

Removing oil filler tubes. We clamp the intake upside down. Heat the inside of the oil tube and they practically fall out and land on the floor. Just learned this trick 1-1/2 years ago from a friend who was dying of cancer. Poor guy is gone now.

Plan B is to have the fittings professionally cut out. Cost is typically 35 to $50 each. Have fun. JD

[Richard F.]

Re: Removal of rusted hose nipples?

When I couldn't get the bypass fitting out of a 68 L88 manifold, I just gave it to the local machine shop to get it out. No problem. As they say, ignorance is bliss.

[Domenic T.]

Re: Removal of rusted hose nipples?

John,
That is how I have had success in removal of plugs & fittings. Yes it sounds backwards but works. Removing the 1/8" NPT oil plugs on a BB can also be a headache and that's where I was taught to get the torch out and instantly heat the plug up, followed by the wax candle. Yes the wax sounds backwards also but most penetrating oils burn off before the have a chance to work. The wax stays and seems to wick down the sides of the fittings & plugs. One would think that a OIL plug should be easy to remove because it always has oil, but as many know, not so. That trick makes life easy and a stuck plug actually feels loose after that.

Dom