Holley Idles Too High Even Though Adj Screw Backed Out

[Wayne G.]

Re: Holley Idles Too High Even Though Adj Screw Backed Out

Jack,

One thing to double check is the secondary stop screw, you need to remove the carburetor to check this. On a vacuum secondary carburetor, the screw needs to be set to where the blades just don't stick in the throttle body so the screw just touches the secondary link. To properly set the carburetor throttle plates, adjust the primary blades so the transfer slot is just at the lower edge of the blade even to the point it's just bearly visable. Next, get a 8-32 set screw 1/2" long and replace the secondary stop screw with the set screw so you can adjust the screw with the carburetor on the engine. Set the idle speed using this screw and don't touch the primary screw then adjust the emulsion screws for best idle.

One other thing is the PCV valve as this will allow air to the engine at idle speed.

Anyone know on the set screw 8-32 1/2 whats best for the head so it can be adjusted...? hex or allen head?
And if you don't mind me asking I have a vac secondary carb that if I snap it she feels sluggish till you hit it a few times... if I open the secondaries manually at idle she screams, real smooth and powerful rev... not even getting gas out of the venturies I think just air?

thank you...

[Timothy B.]

Re: Holley Idles Too High Even Though Adj Screw Backed Out

Wayne,

Go to home depot and get a screw with a allen head 1/2" long and install with a drop of blue loctite. The blue loctite will allow it to be turned but with resistance so it stays put.

Give the car more timing and make sure the accelerator pump squirters are not to big causing the slow response.

[Wayne G.]

Re: Holley Idles Too High Even Though Adj Screw Backed Out

Wayne,

Go to home depot and get a screw with a allen head 1/2" long and install with a drop of blue loctite. The blue loctite will allow it to be turned but with resistance so it stays put.

Give the car more timing and make sure the accelerator pump squirters are not to big causing the slow response.

Yep got one (actually a few different ones 1/2 perfect tho can get the wrench in the hole..) I will have to blue it later had to spray with pen oil just to be safe when it came out... will need to hit with brake clean and some rags...

I set it up with the closed primaries and tried to set the idle via the secondary's, not perfect for my setup as she then seems to run out of gas all of sudden at idle, reset the floats and checked again just seems to die out? with the primaries at a perfect square on the slot and then setting the rear to 850 idle that seems good... but I think the squirter is just a bit to large... ? can't tell for sure... as I said if I crack the rear only she takes off nice... if I open the fronts fast sort of flat, almost wants to die, second hit immediately she takes off... the squirters have nice even spray and hits even...slightest touch of the pedal and she's squiritng good, the pumps dead on and all... .015

She seems better if I use the second screw on the pump cam, but then if I get back on it she dies for sure running out of fuel... Will get a few squirters and see what happens 2 sizes up or down... 2nd screw means MORE FUEL later, right?

Much better idle setup though adjusting the secondary screw

I am running a 62 distro on a 60 FI with 097 cam.... all in at 2500 is 39, gives me a base of 27 at 850 rpm..... if Duke chimes in great, he sounds like the man! (read his articles and all) I really don't get this distro... I know its for sure she's a 097 cam. I know its a Hi Rise Wieland intake a 62 distro (looks to be the stock curve and springs) and a 1965 Chevelle 396/390hp carb with vac secondaries... I got rid of the bouncing SA by shimming the distro... the distro weights kick in real fast, to not advance she needs to be around 450-550rpm else the weights are swinging out already.... (now grant it not sure the springs or weights have been messed with, just going by the band on the distro, and the center brazing of the curve looks original to me...

27 is not all that much timing at idle, but all I can say is it feels and sounds wrong, takes all the rumble out of the motor and she really had a loopy idle sound, real rough compared to this... its not bad but not what it was... sorry as I said this all started after a rebuild and a new base plate from a donor carb...

Any advise is welcome.... I plan on redoing the distro this winter to get the right curve for the 097 and car.... heard it can even be tweeked for it somewhat and a advanced distro may be the way to go.. just don't want to loose the tach drive...

thank you...

[Duke W.]

Re: Holley Idles Too High Even Though Adj Screw Backed Out

I have no idea what's going on. This thread is about a L-71. You need to start a new thread for your problem, thoroughly explain the problem, engine configuration, what you've done, and go from there.

Duke