Getting a C2 up on jack stands

[Ed S.]

I've seen a lot of pics of C2s on jack stands but I have no idea as to what is "the best and safest" way to get it up there. I've searched the NCRS Tech discussion archives every which way and come up with zero. I am sure this has been discussed before. If there is an existing thread can someone please point me towards it, or if there is a printed document, (Word, PDF, whatever) can you please attach it to a reply to this question - or as a last resort just explain the process, step by step. FYI - I have 4 stands, a hydraulic floor jack and wheel blocks.

Thank you

[Frank D.]

Re: Getting a C2 up on jack stands

The thing you want to avoid is twisting the frame. I jack up my '63 at the differential cover and that lifts up the entire rear axle. You can put your jack stands at the proper locations at the rear then (the jacking instructions on the decal will show you where). Then with I move the floor jacks (I have two) to the front jack points and sequentially raise each side a bit at a time until I can get jack stands under the front at both sides. Only THEN do I remove the tires completely (I loosen the lug nuts before jacking though)...

[Tracy C.]

Re: Getting a C2 up on jack stands

Jacking from the middle of the frame near the trans crossmember should be OK. Only go high enough to get the wheels off the ground and place the stands under the frame under body mount at the cowl and at the rear kick-up. Repeat on the opposite side.

It would be better to use 2 floor jacks (jack them in unison) and place them on the same side near the jack stand points.

tc

[Floyd B.]

Re: Getting a C2 up on jack stands

The only other tip I would add is to not let the metal surfaces of the hydraulic jack or jack stands make contact with the frame. I use hockey pucks as pads.

[Joe C.]

Re: Getting a C2 up on jack stands

The safest thing you can do is not to be under the car while your assistant is jacking it up. In particular, stay away from the underside of the tars. Another thing, don't be underneath the car while your assistant is pushing and shaking it to see how sturdy the jack stands are.

[Frank D.]

Re: Getting a C2 up on jack stands

Come to think of it I should have added above that if you jack the entire rear up via the differential housing make d@mn sure the jack saddle is not hitting the front lip on the spare tire tub before pumping the jack handle !!! its easy to damage things if you aren't careful !!!.

[William F.]

Re: Getting a C2 up on jack stands

If you look toward the front of the mid year chassis service manuals, you'll see that the diff cover or rear cross member is not recommended as a jack point of any kind.

[Gary R.]

Re: Getting a C2 up on jack stands

I crack the doors & hood open and pop the T top or canvas top loose, jack up one side just enough to get a stand under it then do the other side. I have used 2 jacks, a wide support, but I never had any issue doing one side at a time.

[Larry M.]

Re: Getting a C2 up on jack stands

It would be better to use 2 floor jacks (jack them in unison) and place them on the same side near the jack stand points.

tc

[Mark E.]

Re: Getting a C2 up on jack stands

Jacking from the middle of the frame near the trans crossmember should be OK. Only go high enough to get the wheels off the ground and place the stands under the frame under body mount at the cowl and at the rear kick-up. Repeat on the opposite side.

It would be better to use 2 floor jacks (jack them in unison) and place them on the same side near the jack stand points.

tc

I typically use Tracy's method if I need the entire car on jack stands. Using a single jack and lifting the entire side of the car from the frame's side rail where the transmission cross member joins has worked for me without damage or incident over the years, BUT this lift point is NOT recommended by Chevy. With that said, this seems to be a strong point for the frame, with little chassis flex or body creaking. I worked at a Chevy dealer's body shop for two summers while in college (late '70s), and this lift point was commonly used then.

About 80% of the time I only need to lift the front, and the approved lift point under the engine cross-member for the floor jack is quick and safe. Until recently, I would then set stands at the recommended location under the frame at the cowl. But it's anxiety provoking hear the body creak when the frame flexes as I lower the floor jack. This flex is due to the load on the frame shifting from the front cross member to the cowl area. So instead of placing stands under the frame at the cowl, I've begun locating the stands under the front shock absorbers. That stopped the body creaking since the load points on the frame are about the same as when the car rests on its tires. But this method is not recommended by Chevy either.

Comments about this?

Also, I'd be weary about placing objects like wood or hocky pucks between the jack and the car. That's an opporutunity for failure if the object pops out or crushes. To protect the chassis from scratches, I use a folded shop rag- much more stable and safe.

[Bill W.]

Re: Getting a C2 up on jack stands

I spent 42 years in G.M. body shops and I only jack up corvettes on the front cross member and rear end . I use a old buffing pad on the jack to protect the paint . If I were jacking up a coupe I would use the lower control arms and the rear frame at the rear wheel area for my stands , If it was a conv. I would only use the susp. If the car is going to be up more than a day or so it needs to be on its susp..

[Patrick B.]

Re: Getting a C2 up on jack stands

I have owned and worked on a lot of C2 and C3 Corvettes, mostly coupes but also some convertibles. Like Bill, I use the front cross member and the rear end as the prefered jacking points. I have never had any trouble using the rear end unless the exhaust pipes and spare tire carrier are in the way. Usually it is necessary to put some wood blocks on the floor jack to clear the spare tire carrier. However, I would not feel comfortible working under the car with jack stands on movable suspension parts like the A-arms. I put them on the horizontal part of the frame rails below the doors where they are most stable. Be careful at the front because the frame begins to curve upward as it gets closer to the front wheel and you don't want the jack stand touching a slanted surface for your own safety.

Occasionally I have had to put jack stands ahead of the front wheels (on the frame behind the bumper brackets) instead of behind the front wheels if they would get in the way of the work. I think this does flex the car more than the other jack stand location and I avoid it unless it is necessary. I usually keep the doors closed to make the car as stiff as possible when on jacks stands. Generally, coupe doors will open freely on the jack stands, but I would not worry if a convertible door did not want to open. Leave it closed and it will be fine when the car is back on the ground.

The most important thing is that the jack stands are absolutely stable when you are under the car.

[Michael F.]

Re: Getting a C2 up on jack stands

hard to imagine how these cars, or any car, survived over all these years of jacking by people only using the manual to jack one corner at a time, for me our cars are not made of glass so why worry, just me of course.....now I will say I jack at front in center and rear under pumkin with rubber cushions but sure didn't do it that way back in the 70s-80s when I lived in apartments and did everything in a parking lot....my or my how did I survive and how did my cars.

[William F.]

Re: Getting a C2 up on jack stands

Michael,
Are you being sarcastic or do you really think jacking a Corvette on one and only one of the places recommended in the CSM is going to bend the frame or something? How bout jacking on frame rail just in front of door or on frame rail just in front of rear wheel well to change front or rear tire, respectively? These are recommended lifting points in CSM. Surely you think you have to jack car symmetrically to do this. Look in CSM; jacking on rear diff and front cross member NOT shown at least in diagram of "Corvette lifting points."

[Steven B.]

Re: Getting a C2 up on jack stands

You can lift most vehicles by a number of points. Lifting points need to be a substantial part of the chassis or unsprung weight. The key word in the CSM is recommended. In the CSM, for the Corvette, it shows lifting points under the frame rails behind the front wheels, and ahead of the rear wheels. It also shows lifting points at the tires for a drive on hoist, and under the lower control arms for a two post hoist with drive on adaptors (in floor two post hoist). The Fig.31 picture also contradicts the Fig. 30 illustration for indicated lifting points.
The CSM also references the front of the frame as jack stand points along with the frame rail locations you would place a jack at in order to change a flat (does not address how you are supposed to put jack stands where you are currently employing a floor jack at the rear).
It does not show that there are points that you should stay away from (although that might be helpful). The only vehicle in the CSM that shows "do not lift" here points, is the Chevy II.
As mentioned earlier by Patrick, the front crossmember is frequently used as well as the differential housing especially on solid axle cars. They are certainly substantial components. Although the CSM does not show the front crossmember as a lifting point on the Camaro or Corvette (they do on all other models), I have lifted both cars at the crossmember without problems. I would, however follow the advice to use something on the jack and stands to avoid scratching the paint regardless of where you lift.
The original post was how to get a Corvette up on jack sands. If one is not comfortable with lift points other than those in the CSM, then the best bet is to stick with the recommended lift points.
Steve