74 Body Off (NEED HELP)

[Lester P.]

I am doing a body off and I am like most shade tree mechanics I am pretty good with a wrench but I am now into uncharted waters. Fiberglass repair (minor), bonding agents, rivet setting methods and tools.

Here is where I am in the restoration. I am now working on all of the underbody metal, bottom line if it is metal used to support the fiberglass it must be replaced due to rust deterioration. Some of it I have been able to sand blast and will reuse, the rest I have purchased new. Channel between "A" and "B" pillars the for the door sill (right side is shot and needs replaced) "B" pillar is rusted thru up about 2 inches on the right side, and the "B" pillar on left side is O.K. but I want to replace the body mount section. Both "A" pillars are in good shape

Here are my questions
What do I use for bonding agents? (reattach the hood surround to the body)

What weight fiber glass should I buy? (minor cracks or small hole repair where bolts broke the glass because of bolts being rusted in)

Who makes the best and easiest to use resin?

Should I spend the money for rivet set tool and backing bar?

The rivet set tools sold by Paragon, Ecklers will these fit an air hammer?

Does any one have a video or Youtube of the replacement of the Channel between the "A" and "B" pillar and replace of the lower section of the "B" pillar?

If you would rather correspond via email I can be reached at usnretmike@tampabay.rr.com

Thank a million in advance to any and all advise.

[Russ S.]

Re: 74 Body Off (NEED HELP)

For your first question I would use 1-1/2 ounce. Remember your fiberglass on a 74 is SMC so you need SMC resin. For a rivet tool, cut off a air chisel tool and concave out the end of it. I would use a carbide bit (burr) to grind it out as the chisel bit may be hardened. Most any thing will work for a bucking block.

[Lester P.]

Re: 74 Body Off (NEED HELP)

Russ thanks for the information. As I said in my post fiber glass work is uncharted water for me. What is SMC? Who do you recommend getting the resin from.

[Russ S.]

Re: 74 Body Off (NEED HELP)

SMC-sheet molded compound. It is not like the older polyester based resin. You can get resin at hardware stores, paint stores, and auto part stores.

[Richard M.]

Re: 74 Body Off (NEED HELP)

Lester,

I use the 3M 8115 product for bonding panels. It's a 2 part epoxy with a 90 minute work time & long full cure time and is ideal for SMC and Fiberglass. It can be heated with a heatgun for more rapid curing if desired.

http://3mcollision.com/3m-panel-bonding-adhesive-08115.html#moreInfoDetails

8116 is another and IIRC it has a longer cure time than the 8115.

Rich

[Lester P.]

Re: 74 Body Off (NEED HELP)

Rich, thanks for the information and assistance.

V/r Lester

[Lester P.]

Re: 74 Body Off (NEED HELP)

Russ thank you for your help.

[Alan S.]

Re: 74 Body Off (NEED HELP)

Hi Lester,
You asked about setting rivets.
Although using an air hammer as Russ described is the way to do most rivets I found that having a tool to use with a 3 lb hammer is good too.
The air hammer does it so quickly that sometimes the resulting appearance isn't quite what was typical for those done in St.Louis.
I was able to control the 'dome' a little better setting them by hand.
Another thing to be aware of is that the rivet shanks were of different lengths depending on what they were joining. If you use rivets of all the same length the dome's may nut turn out well. You can buy rivets of different lengths (and head configuration), or just cut the long shanks down.
If you do a little cross reference in the AIM of rivet part numbers and look at the rivet info at the Dr.Rebuild site you can get some idea of what rivet was used where.
Good Luck!
Regards,
alan

[Lester P.]

Re: 74 Body Off (NEED HELP)

Alan, thank you for the information and advice about Dr. Rebuild. I spent some time there today and it is very useful.

Thanks

V/r Lester