# 4 Body mount

[Edward J.]

Re: # 4 Body mount

Jack at this point I would just clean the area up with a grinder and have a plate welded to the chassis mount from underside. and call it a day. Once the car is drivable take to someone with a welder. see if you can prefab a plate first, and hand to the welder, As a note there are some welders that are mobile but I guess this may depend on the area. may have to ask around

[Jack P.]

Re: # 4 Body mount

Hi Ed, that sounds like the best thing to do. I can take care of the upper nut area. I may glass it or just put in a plate as suggested by Rich.

First I have to get the rear end done. I bring it to Gary Ramadei this weekend. Should be done by end of April. Meanwhile , lots of little things to do after 65,000 miles in the last 4 years.

Just waiting for the snow to melt , 10 degrees here last night....really tired of this....

Jack

[Jack P.]

Re: # 4 Body mount

Hi, thanks for The response, I will clean out area of rusted metal to see actual size of frame mount hole. I think I am going to replace the reinforcement piece as that hole is rusted out. My nut cage is in good shape. The new reinforcement piece will give me a normal landing for the bushing and spacers. I will deal with the frame with a washer / plate to anchor the lower bushing to frame mount.


Does that sound like a almost correct fix?


Jack

[Richard M.]

Re: # 4 Body mount

Jack, Do you mean this reinforcement that rivets to the body? If so, that's a good idea if it's rusted out.

m-2507_66.jpg

If you have it off, you can decide if you want to repair the fiberglass too.

Keep in mind you'll have to remove the decklid and hinge tower support. Be verrrry careful when loosening the upper 2 bolts. They attach to a blind (soft)riveted nutplate in the metal gutter horizontal reinforcement, which if it gets broken off, will be a MAJOR repair.

With tower in place, you cannot get in there to spray it with anything to help free it up. If you start the remove the bolts and they are seized, stop.

This is the area I'm talking about....
P2220008.jpgP2220003.jpg


Also, the rust intrusion likely has happened over the years due to blocked drains. The horizontal metal gutter reinforcement concoction gets clogged, and the water can't drain out into the wheelwell holes.
P2220001.jpgP2220002.jpgP2220003.jpgP2220004.jpgP2220005.jpg P2220001.jpgP2220002.jpgP2220004.jpgP2220005.jpg

Rich

[Harry S.]

Re: # 4 Body mount

And if it happens to break off..............

[David H.]

Re: # 4 Body mount

Jack,
Is this the only pad you planned to replace? I ask because I had similar issues with #4 but also had problems with a #3 bolt that was froze up and necessitated a body off. With the body off your repair options are easier.

[Jack P.]

Re: # 4 Body mount

Hi , if you look at my pictures, you will see that the bolt in question has no rust on it. It is the same up top, no rust, as my gutters and garage over the years worked. What rusted is down below as I drive year round in snow and salt. 7 years ago I had the side rails (frame) and repaired and those. Bushing were replaced.

later today I will see if it will come out

jack

[Richard M.]

Re: # 4 Body mount

And if it happens to break off..............

Harry, Awesome document !

[Jack P.]

Re: # 4 Body mount

Yes , thanks for pictures , I have my fingers crossed , but will not break bolt if it does not come out.

jack

[Jack P.]

Re: # 4 Body mount

Body off not possible , no room , and I have enough project creep already ! Lol

jack

[Jack P.]

Re: # 4 Body mount

I was looking at new #4 reinforcemets from vendors and guess what? I have a coup retainer . They must have run out of the convertible units at the factory , as this bushing has never been removed . I stand corrected, the vendor had it mislabeled , some vendors show with weld nut some without


Jack

[Richard M.]

Re: # 4 Body mount

I was looking at new #4 reinforcemets from vendors and guess what? I have a coup retainer . They must have run out of the convertible units at the factory , as this bushing has never been removed . I stand corrected, the vendor had it mislabeled , some vendors show with weld nut some without


Jack

Jack I fixed my picture above, and sent Zip a note that both of theirs are reversed photos.

I didn't notice that. Good Catch!

Rich

[Jack P.]

Re: # 4 Body mount

Update as soon as I take pictures, and I even forgot to remove the deck!

jack

[Jack P.]

Re: # 4 Body mount

I went out to the garage , forgot to change my clothes, I was just going to spray a little more penetrate on the bolt holding the reinforcement plate.


Well I could not resist putting a ratchet to the bolt. I forgot to take the deck off and just reached in . It took a while to get the right extractor socket on the bolt . 9/16 to big , 1/2 to small. You must be able to hammer the socket on to really get them to work.


After 10 minutes, I put my big wrench to it. The one that I am always told not use. Well one click at a time the bolt came out. It took about 20 minutes to get it out, not hard , just one little click because of the tight space.


I was them able to remove the rusted mount reinforcement plate . Once removed , I will be able to put a small piece of fiberglass over the hole to hold the nut in the cage. The cage was not rusted . The new reinforcement plate for the # 4 mount will secure the bushing to the body.


I will then be able to fabricate a retaining plate for the # 4 frame mount which had a rusted out hole. The mount is good. I will get the plate welded to the mount once I have the car on the road.


I was very fortunate to not have a rusted out deck hinge area. All the rust was in the wheel well, except for the retainer bolt. It was only a few inches away from the rusted bushing.....


Here are the photos


Ratchet in place with a little hammer to hit socket on to bolt





View of position of extraction

[Jack P.]

Re: # 4 Body mount More photos

49 year old bolt with very little rust





The old bushing and plate