Bad motor mount

[Michael C.]

Over the past year or so I noticed a small chip in the paint on the underside of my 67 BB hood. It looks to be made by the corner of the air cleaner cover. (3x2) at first I thought maybe I closed the hood too hard and that made the hood hit the air cleaner.

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After some more research on our great discussion forums I got the idea to check the motor mounts. Especially the driver side one. Visually they looked fine. They are original non locking mounts. I decided to investigate deeper. Open removal of the driver side mount I discovered that it had indeed split in two halves. I now am thinking the engine was torquing over and hitting the underside of the hood on hard acceleration.


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Mike C.

[Leif A.]

Re: Bad motor mount

Mike,

Glad you found your problem...those BB are certainly torque monsters. An easy way to discern if you have a bad motor mount without removal would be to set the emergency brake, engage first gear and slowly raise RPM as you release the clutch. If you have a bad motor mount (driver's side) the engine will tend to lift on that side. The same can be accomplished for the passenger side by engaging reverse. This process is much easier with an automatic trans.

[Michael C.]

Re: Bad motor mount

Leif, that is good advise, thanks. Now I have to decide if I'm going with non locking original mounts or the new locking style ones. I do drive the car some. If the design of the original was so unsafe that GM felt that all service replacements should be the locking type, then maybe I am leaning towards the locking type mount. I wonder what point deduction is associated with using the new type mount? Any opinions would be heard with appreciation.

Mike C.

[Joe L.]

Re: Bad motor mount

Leif, that is good advise, thanks. Now I have to decide if I'm going with non locking original mounts or the new locking style ones. I do drive the car some. If the design of the original was so unsafe that GM felt that all service replacements should be the locking type, then maybe I am leaning towards the locking type mount. I wonder what point deduction is associated with using the new type mount? Any opinions would be heard with appreciation.

Mike C.

Mike------


I'm not so sure that the mount you pictured is an original mount. It just does not look quite right to me.

In any event, I HIGHLY recommend going with the LOCKING style mounts. You were lucky this time around and very little damage was caused by the broken mount. More serious damage can be caused. I don't know what the point deduction is for the locking mounts but that's the only style I'd use on a driven car. This is especially important now because all of the motor mounts on the market that I'm aware of are of "far east" manufacture. That in and of itself is not necessarily bad. However, I have not seen one of these mounts yet that left me with a "warm, comfortable feeling".

[Bob J.]

Re: Bad motor mount

I agree with Joe.
Original mounts for midyears have the lower mount bolt going through the block of rubber.
On yours, it appears to stop above that point which is a 283 style mount.
Bob J

[Joe R.]

Re: Bad motor mount

Lets see now! If that motor mount is original it has lasted 40 plus years. If it is from a 283 it has lasted over 50 years. Do you think that you will be around to see another one fail? Call Volunteer Products in Knoxville, TN. and order you an original motor mount. EN66 at @25.00 bucks!
1 865 521-9100

JR

[Michael C.]

Re: Bad motor mount

Bob J, I guess I should have said original style non locking. They did have a part number but have ACM MADE IN USA on them.

I have some concerns about driving a car with the non locking style mount? Any opinion on quality of that mount (EN66)? CC has engine mounts that look well made too.

Mike