1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

[Richard M.]

Re: Telescopic Column

Yesterday I got real lazy so I didn't do too much. I fixed a ground wire on the Forward Harness, and after that I was sitting at the bench looking at the original 837 Horn Relay.

I started cleaning the outside after testing it, which passed, and I said to myself, ......What doesn't get touched, will certainly fail. So I went in......

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So here we go again. I started cleaning the internal contacts and noticed the micro-wire on the coil moving around. It's very loose. I tested again and the coil wires were bouncing up and down with each operation. I put it aside. I am going to have to break the contact lead and rewind the coil. Darn-it.

So I then got back into the front valence to restore it before HL bucket installation. I wire brushed and prepped the bucket reinforcement/mounts for refinishing. Also removed the rusty bolts for cleanup. A thorough cleaning using soap and water and rags on the entire front hidden areas, then dressed the metals areas. I masked the cleaned-up rivets and shot all the metal reinforcements with a coating of black to protect them.
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Then I took a break from the body, cleaned the shifter linkage, lubed everything up and installed the shifter and adjusted. Then taped up the shims to the frame body mounts using my 1 1/2" wide masking tape.

Later I decided after dinner to do the Headlight bucket installation. This time I walked by the couch without sitting. My wife came out to help and was a great help holding the buckets in position while I buttoned them in and adjusted. Gaps nearly perfect, just a few more "t w e a k s" and all set.

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I'm also going to clean and refinish the entire horizontal support in a similar fashion.

Then a final test of the engine running in the chassis, remove the sidepipes, and body final checks and minor cleanup of the birdcage sills before it goes on.

Rich

[Richard M.]

Re: Telescopic Column

Live update.

I'll talk about it all later and why I chose black versus the other color discussed in the JG.
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Then The Postman came, and brought the NOS dated mirror and the dated 7365 starter. I think the starter was on top of the mirror in a truck somewhere, but thankfully it's okay.

RuRo....could be trouble.....but it's okay. Joyce Borrell packed it really good!
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Nice starter from Driveline supporter Ron Burke. Nice!
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===

[Gene M.]

Re: Telescopic Column

Rich,
The 3/8" nuts on the copper posts S/B a 5/8" hex jam nut size not 9/16".

[Richard M.]

Re: Telescopic Column

Rich,
The 3/8" nuts on the copper posts S/B a 5/8" hex jam nut size not 9/16".

Ahhh good catch, the one that's loose for the cable attachment is 9/16", but the other two tightened to the case are 5/8".

I just found a 9/16" ATF nut in my solenoids box and it is now affixed there so I don't forget.
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And now that you brought that up, I thought the S & R terminals used external toothed lockwashers. AIM says 121752 L WASHER at S terminal. AIM pic looks like a toothed, so, I just checked in my parts book in the hardware section with the pictures. Yes, toothed. The R is a #10, and the S is a #8, and the R toothed washer is 138479. Minor issues but good to know.

Thanks,
Rich

[Richard M.]

Update

The body was reunited with the Chassis on Thursday night. I ran into a few issues with my 2-post lift arms and had to correct their attach points to my body lift bracing, but all came out good. I was going to just show a couple of photos here, but then I felt it would be better for future reference to just download all of them. Here goes..........

Last rest on the dolly, then detached and supported by the rockers birdcage frames on each side. Then some shots of the chassis just before body-drop. The topsides of the frame will not see the sky any longer. Also some shots of the cleaned and resurfaced birdcage sill framing and the totally cleaned and restored underbody.
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And here after a long restoration process, the body is now resting comfortably on the fully restored chassis. Last night I finished tightening all 7/16" body mount bolts after ensuring there were no issues. Everything fit just as it should have. Door gaps are nice just like before body pull.
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The rear wheels are cambered quite a bit because the halfshafts are not installed yet. I'll do that from below when on the lift as the shafts need to be heldfast while torquing the fasteners. I use a helper and a padded long bar for that, and easier on the back when standing up.

Also notice the finished/repaired front valence tab for the grille support bar in the 4th photo from the end above. Needs a dab of black paint and good as new.

I also did some miscellaneous restoring and refinishing of various pieces. I have just about everything needed to assemble it all to the car in the upcoming week.

This...............is really the fun part. When all of the parts are restored and waiting on the shelves. I installed the new Brake Booster as the other one was functional but had much DOT 3 brake fluid corrosion on it's face.

I am anticipating a very busy upcoming week. I'll check in when I can. There are many other tasks I had to do before body drop, and some last minute "gotchas" that I missed. One was a bondo-load of junk at the left rear bumper side mount and some cracking of the mount on the right rear. I decided to fix some of these issues pre-drop to make it easier later. It delayed the drop, but worth it in the end.

Rich

[Joe R.]

Re: Update

Rich,

Lookin' good!!! Strong work as usual!!!

Joe

[Richard M.]

Re: Update

Thanks Joe.....

FYI a thread about the engine fan Here. And I don't recall but some talk about bonding strip debossed part numbers Here.

Today I continued assembly. I rechecked all body bolts and raised it up on the lift as a real car for the first time since the body was reattached. Felt strange to me that they're together now after looking at two big hunks of a car apart from eachother. Then it felt good. Lots of little things and getting the parts to assemble in some kind of pecking order. I also decided to use the original TI harness after a small repair to a frayed wire. More on that later. Also touched a few scores of pieces to get ready for assembly. The shelves are getting lighter. I had a new Park Brake pulley, but after a good cleaning of the greasy original, I decided to use it with it's original "A" bolt.

I have restored parts everywhere. I also spent a bit of time getting the rear suspension setup. I decided to experiment with the "natural" parts of the back end. It may not fly with the 'powers to be', but I think it looks more realistic of natural steel in places that were, well, too plain. Don't tell anyone, but it isn't "natural" steel.

Rich
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[Richard M.]

Re: Update

Some decent progress yesterday. It was about a 15 hour day. I get out there early every day. It's me and the Corvette. I'm really enjoying the assembly time I have with this beauty.

Gene, you'll like this. I decided to repair the original TI Harness and use it in the car. I cleaned each wire and pulled the terminals out of each connector and cleaned and readjusted them to spring better. It's in overall great condition, except there was a chafed section when I took it off . It was rubbing on the inner skirt for many years by the looks of it.

I carefully took it apart and repaired it. I was using this in my chassis/engine test bed running the engine so I know it's functionally good.The cut seam of the original friction harness tape will be facing the skirt as before so it'll be undetectable to the eye. Here's what I did. I also refinished the TI module and needs a simple reassembly.
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After that I assembled some other bits on the car. Then I went after the rear suspension, driveline assembly and rear sway bar. All 16 halfshaft attach bolts torqued to spec with steel French Locks on the outer flanges. I will torque the 4 large leaf spring to carrier bolts when full weight is added to the car later. They're just snug now.
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Then the radiator. The fan shroud must be installed simultaneously with the radiator. This is not a job for one person. I had my son give me a hand.
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edit....Just finished. Here's the restored and assembled TI Module. I used a new plug as the original was a bit rough. I had the rear cover plated as original and using new screws on the backside and label. You can see the rear cover plate curved edge for early to mid cars. Last photo shows the flat edge cover plate for later cars IIRC, and also for 1968 up.
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I also located a nice original 837 Horn Relay. The one on the car was defective and about ready to fail. I'll try to fix that in the future, but for now this one will do the job.
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More later.....back to assembly.

Rich

[Richard M.]

Re: Update

Miscellaneous assembly, painting, assembly, painting, repeat.....Please tell me if you see anything unusual.

Wittek #10's for the WP bypass hose.
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Antenna ground strap to frame. Frame-toothed washer-strap-bolt.
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The prior had the backuplight switch mounted upside down, now corrected. I had a heck of a time with the switch to reverse lever rod. I'm thinking I may have the wrong rod. It was there before with 1 missing clothes-pin clip. I don't think it ever worked. Switched tested good.
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Clutchfork lever, springs, battery tray.
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'365 starter with a 4356 solenoid, black DR cap, toothed washer on the stud first, then battery cable, then power feed, per AIM. I had to repair the ground lug. It was a soft copper, now a hard brass, soldered on.
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Misc parts painted.
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The black '366 fan, now painted. Talked about Here.
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Forward harness and TI Module and Harness installed, HL motors in. I ended up changing the main gears in the motors and corrected my beveled washer orientation. I had them wrong.
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Horns. The left side has a clip attached to the support for the wire.
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Dated '515 VR in place. Alternator to come. I had it tested at a auto electric shop and passed all tests. I think the heater hoses are correct, but unsure if the GM's are right. I'm thinking the 2 heater hose clips on each side of the bolted clamp should be a greenish hue....need to check on that. Also need to configure and connect the backup light plugs per the AIM. Just another job for 'TomorrowMan'.
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TBC
Rich

[Richard M.]

Re: Update

Yesterday I did many little tidbits of assembly prep, mostly in the engine bay and interior related small items. I had to work on one of the valve covers on the bench too. I also traveled around my local area with 2 side exhaust pipes trying to get them partially media blasted. The forward steel pipes from the front end of the side mufflers had a baked on silver paint. My local sandblast shop never called me back from a message early in the week, so I took a ride over with them.

Unfortunately his helper told me he was away for a while and not sure when he'd return. So I stopped by a supplier and picked up some media sand. I have to do it myself. I have a pressure-tank sandblaster so it looks like I'll be suiting up and doing it solo. Bad thing is that today is 100% rain day here so not happening until tomorrow when the sun returns. After blasting, I will try to wire wheel them to get to the expected natural finish. I am expecting to find the stamped in GM part numbers after cleaning them.

I also got very involved with the rear spring mount to the differential. Now that the weight of the car was applying proper tension and "flattening" effect on the spring assembly, I could now torque the 4 original "WB" 9/16" bolts holding the spring to the differential. The 2 forward bolts are held into blind holes in the differential carrier so it's important to be careful. One un-thoughtful wrong move could damage the case. Bolt length is important.

I had one bolt that appeared to bind while torquing. It appeared that the bolt was binding against the spring edges where the threads stop and the shank of the bolt begins. I loosened everything and retried....no go. I removed it and the tip of the threads were slightly damaged. I swapped the bolt for another, same issue. I took a quick measurement of length and depth and it seemed it was very close to cause a bind. I paused....... I must pull the spring and investigate.

I jacked each outer end of the spring to release it from the outer trailing arm attach bolts. I then removed the spring assembly and took measurements. I made a interesting discovery. The restored spring was thinner than before. That one bolt was in a bind up into the end of the case threads. The depth of the holes is 1 3/16". However, the threads stop at apx 1" inside the case. Then there is a unthreaded shallowed area above it, apx 0.2". The other side was a tad deeper, maybe 1/8" or so. That's why that bolt went further.

After taking measurements, it appears that the spring assembly is thinner because the replacement spring liners I used.......were THINNER! I replaced the lower main leaf but the thickness was identical. The overall thickness of the spring assembly was now slightly less and prevented the forward bolts from being torqued to spec. This due to the liners.

I then cut 0.25" from the tips of the 2 forward bolts. I dressed the edges to a proper bevel and used my thread restoring die on each to get them clean. I then reassembled the spring to the carrier then to the outer spring to TA bolts. I then rolled the car back and forth to get the suspension comfortable and normal spring level. I then torqued the 4 bolts to 55 lbs/ft(spec 55-75 per AIM). All was fine.

I scribbled some notes on paper while diagnosing and will post a scan of it later for future reference.

I then went on the brake related tasks, sitting comfortably at my work table to relax my sore muscles.

Rich ....edit....notes attached for future reference. Sorry for the hen-scratches, but pressed for time. Bottom line is that the tips of the bolt heads were hitting the un-tapped area up in the carrier holes preventing proper home insertion. Also a few pics of the bolt cutoff pieces showing the thread damage from the left front carrier hole. I suspect the right front would have bound during torque unless I trimmed that bolt also. After cutting 1/4" off the bolt tips, this gave me more clearance to torque the bolts to spec.

Disaster averted. Too bad the original liners were not salvageable. They were badly torn up. Using original properly spec'd liners would have prevented this problem.

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[Richard M.]

Re: Update

5 minute jobs that take a hour......

New reproduction fan clutch. Very nice. I assemble the original restored painted semi-flat gloss '366 fan to the clutch......
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FYI, fan paint thread HERE.

I place it on the water pump shaft. I use a short 5/16" stud in one hub position to help alignment. I thread 3 bolts into the clutch hub to the WP hub then remove the stud and replace with the 4th bolt. All goes well, but then I try to push the fan/clutch assembly home onto the shaft and against the face of the WP pulley. It's about 1/8" shy. Confused. So I then have to remove the assembly to investigate. Something isn't right. I put 2 bolts back into the naked pulley to snug it up against the hub. I measure the shaft protrusion. It's apx .500". Seems about right to me.

I then measure the bore depth in the shaft hole in back of the clutch hub.......It's apx 0.450"! What?
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Now I go get the leaky, loose bearing, defective AC Delco fan clutch that came off the engine. It's bore depth is 0.600"+. Then I get another Scwitzer(sp?) on the shelf I have here for a '61. It's 0.600" deep.

So my nice new reproduction fan clutch......looks pretty, even has the "CK" stamp on the face, and cost lots of money........but....

IT DOESN'T FIT !

I'll have to pull the WP hub out a tad to get it to fit right.

So I install 4 studs to the WP hub. I put the bare fan clutch on the WP pulley / WP shaft/hub and I then use the clutch hub as a puller, tightening the stud nuts to pull the WP hub into the fan clutch, flush together. The clutch hub shaft is too close to the 4 stud nuts so I have to use a open end wrench and turn 1/2 turn at a time to get the hub pulled out. Great.

Finally I get it pulled flush, loosen the 4 nuts with the open end wrench, remove the $200 hub puller, pull the 4 studs, back on the bench and reinstall the nice original fan, which BTW "fits" the way it's supposed to.

I then get to install the fan/clutch assembly back on the engine. ........Simple.
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At least the original bypass hose and recently acquired Wittek #10 hose clamps fit.
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The Alternator is another story. That one has issues too, Wrong pulley. But that's because of the restorer/rebuilder........ME! It had the wrong pulley from before engine pull and I didn't investigate when I had it apart. It was staring me in the face but I never noticed it wasn't 3 5/8". It's ~3 1/4".

My vendor of choice is out of stock, so my way to Eckler's this morning for a Saturday Corvette parts excursion. I'd prefer a NOS GM part but at least the reproduction is USA fabricated. They open at 9AM and I'd like to go right after I dropoff some items at my sandblaster's shop. I need to get outa' the shop for a while anyways. It's a hour each way to Eckler's so I can unwind a little.

I'm hoping I'll have everything back on and be ready for a engine start, maybe tomorrow, after a cooling system fill, finish up and test the electricals, reinstall the refreshed side exhaust system and a few other items to install.

Then it's finish the carpeting, install the bumpers and hood.....and it's about done. I'm sure I'll have some more gotcha's but that's typical. After all, this car is 49 years this March old and I'm sure will still have a few more things to complain about.

Rich

[Richard M.]

Re: Update

Carpet night.....

In progress as I write this while waiting for the contact cement to kick-off for the wheel wells. The jute mat needed some more attention too.

A few shots for now...

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Oh and I got the pipes media cleaned at my blasters shop while I trucked up to Eckler's to get the new(proper) Alternator pulley.

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Early this morning before work I tricked up the rag joint. Bare shiny metal but did some things to it like the rear driveline pieces to make it look better.

Before....
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After....
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Then I made a correct(kind-of) petcock for the radiator. Took me about 20 minutes. I drilled the end, reversed the finger turny-thing, then silver soldered it back on. Gave it the old pliers test and worked fine.
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oooops, glue's dry.....later.

Rich

edit.....Just finished up the rear area but need to glue the big flat floor and horizontal area, along with the jack well cover to glue. Just brought it back inside for the night. More tomorrow. Finish up interior and maybe the bumpers will get started.

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[Richard M.]

Re: Update

Photos so far today. Spent some tinkering time inside during the bad storms this morning. Cleaned up the engine bay wiring, misc clips, ties, etc, then hood cables and small parts installed.

Then I assembled the PDS. Using DOT 5.
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Then the Master Cylinder.
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I will bench bleed both as a assembly.
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I had to go get more brush-on Contact Cement for the carpet. I ran out last night. But too windy now and I don't want the car outside as I have lots of trees nearby. So while the sun is shining a little I cleaned the side exhaust front downpipes.

Natural finish correct? Not aluminized dowpipes right? The tube mufflers are aluminized.
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I used a barrage of gadgets but still took some effort.
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edit.....Just finished the 2nd pipe. Both done. I wire wheeled the welds too and can see some original heat blue hue on a few spots.
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Got a good look at the GM part numbers too. Nice find.

3872978-W Right
3872969-W Left
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Now I can install them on the car for a upcoming first start up after build completion, likely tomorrow after the brakes are gravity bled after the MC assembly is installed.

===

[Richard M.]

Re: Update

Hello All....It's about 5AM in Lakeland......Yup, that's right. I finished the car and it made it to the Florida Winter Regional.

Thursday was a blur. The last thing I did was assemble the Tele Column and install it in the car. Just before that I installed the clutch pedal rod. Then I started the engine to load it on the trailer. This was the first time the car would move and shift under it's own power from the beginning.

It worked! We loaded it on the trailer, strapped it down, did the final trailer safety checks, and off we went.

I MUST say if it wasn't for the help from my son Jeff, I would not have finished in time. He was a enormous help with many of the "2-person" tasks. Also, my wife Cathie was right there on Thursday morning helping him install the rear bumpers. I was installing front carpets and seats while they were doing their work on the backside.

I trailered the car in my enclosed hauler, with Cathie following in my '07 coupe. It was about a 3 hour haul, with some frustrating traffic delays. I got every single red light along the way.

A lot has happened between Sunday, my last post, and today. I apologize for not doing the updates but I had to scramble to finish the tasks at hand to see if I had ANY chance to get the car there for it's first ever "Flight Test". I took my usual barrage of photos and will update this thread with what I did at a later time when we get back home Sunday.

Friday was a very busy day at the Judging Arena. The Flow of Judges started at around 8 AM and continued to around 3 PM. I was quite nervous when the Chassis Judges arrived. If you recall, that was the main objective of this restoration.....correcting a attempted beatification of a rattle-can painted frame by a prior owner, sitting below a beautiful body.

I don't have the actual official tally at this time, but the car did pretty well. Even though I started this restoration as a "Driver" I tried to maintain some levels of "Typical Production" if Bob ever wanted to get it judged. Some of those "coated" surfaces hurt the sheets, but we knew that up front long ago. This car will be driven, and it'll be protected better than original intentions. I had to undo some "wrong" stuff and add some "right" stuff, and do what I could in a months time. I got the body back on the frame on January 8th. That gave me plenty of time to finish the car for the January 21st deadline......or so I thought. Everything took extra time.

Yesterday during Judging, I had the pleasure of meeting Gene Manno and his wife. Gene made a request. He was planning to do a Judging Seminar on Chassis related details today(Saturday), and asked Bob and I if he could use the '67 and put it up on the lift in Hanger B for his training Seminar. We agreed. More fun coming today. I will take some photos and post them up when I get time.

I would like to thank EVERONE here, and some of you that are NOT here on the TDB, for your help with this. You all were great.

I also would like to say a special thank you to my good friend Frank Tetro. Without Frank's help and guidance I would have had NO chance to get this done in time. THANK YOU FRANK!.... WE DID IT!

Rich

[James G.]

Re: Update

Your the man, and new star Rich. Congrats. I had phone reports yesterday. I look forward to a fun visit when you get home and the dust settles