1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Pitman Arm, Relay Rod, and original Idler Arm media-cleaned, primed, painted.

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A note that the JG states the Pitman Arm(Standard Steering 1963 to 1976) is Forged # 3829452. I believe this is in error as the October 1962 P & A Catalog states that the forged # is 3829451, as is the machined part#.
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Idler Arm
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I also discovered that the RBW Bolts(one carriage, one standard) for the Idler appear original. The JG states a lockwasher and nut is used on the top bolt. However, some research tells me that no lockwasher was used in 1967. My1967 AIM is missing UPC 9 A2, which shows the assembly parts. I found a 1966 AIM page HERE, and sure enough, no lockwasher. It's a compression type lock-nut. BTW, reproduction bolts are course thread. These original RBW's are fine thread.
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Relay Rod rebuild
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Installed the rebuild steering box using the original RBW carriage bolts, and attached the Pitman Arm and torqued the nut to 150 lbs/ft after applying a touch of threadlocker on the cleaned threads. I used a large pipe over the rubber-wrapped arm and jammed it against a 2x8 against the lower control arm. This to keep any load off of the internals of the steering box.
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We are partially rolling !
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[Gary R.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Rich
I have only seen #451 manual arms. PS arms are #383.

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Tie rod tubes internally coated to thwart future rust. Assembled and now installed on the front end with new tie rod ends.
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I used my guide for proper tierod end assembly to the tubes. I forgot where I got this but I had it stored for reference. Note that the LH threads are inners, RH threads are outers. There is no reference in the AIM as the steering relay rod and tie rods came to St Louis as a assembly.
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Installed with new clamps and RSC bolts, lockwashers and nuts. I did a ballpark toe adjustment and will revisit when engine reinstalled and body attached with normal weight on the chassis. All items with "green tape" are my reminders to torque later.
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I set the steering box that Gary rebuilt for us to center. It's about 3 1/4 turns lock to lock with the steering rods attached. You can see the center mark Gary punched on the end of the coupler shaft.
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That's a new lower coupler(rag joint) I received in the order that arrived yesterday with the new tie rod tubes, etc. I also ordered a reproduction radiator from Dewitt's that will arrive next week. The one in the car originally was a old replacement type with dents and dings and about 10 coats of paint.

Installed rear calipers along with new hard and rubber brake lines and new brake pads. I decided on stock Delco shock absorbers, not F41 HD shocks. ("shocking" cost that we will defer to a later time if desired). New Delcos were black out of the box with sticky DELCO labels. I removed the labels with a heat gun, scuffed them up with sandpaper and re-coated with gray.
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Frame is rolling again.
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I still have to do my stenciling, inspection marks, shim chalk marks, etc. But for now I'm pleased with the results.

I decided to leave the half shafts off for now to ease movement around the shop. Now waiting upcoming engine reinstallation. The block is on the honing machine and new pistons arrived last week and now at the shop for build-up. Hopefully it will be finished soon. I couldn't get a date yet from the rebuilder. All of the needed parts are there now for rebuild and reassembly. Will be a stock build.

===

[Leif A.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

"But for now I'm pleased with the results."

As well, you should be. Outstanding work, Rich. I thought in "67 they had done away with the copper strap at the rag joint and that the rag joint itself was somehow impregnated with copper. Again, beautiful work and your pictures and explanations are over the top.

[John H.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

I thought in "67 they had done away with the copper strap at the rag joint and that the rag joint itself was somehow impregnated with copper.

The copper ground strap wasn't replaced by the metal screening layer in the "rag" until the C3 era.

[Leif A.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

The copper ground strap wasn't replaced by the metal screening layer in the "rag" until the C3 era.

thanks, John

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Here's the one I removed.

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[Donald H.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Rich, a question. Why did you replace the ball socket on the pitman arm that goes into the drag link? I have me apart, but have not removed the ball socket from the pitman arm. Mine look fine, i.e. no flat spots or obvious work areas on the ball.

Just trying to decide to replace it while it's apart, or leave the original.

Thanks,

Don

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Rich, a question. Why did you replace the ball socket on the pitman arm that goes into the drag link? I have me apart, but have not removed the ball socket from the pitman arm. Mine look fine, i.e. no flat spots or obvious work areas on the ball.

Just trying to decide to replace it while it's apart, or leave the original.

Thanks,

Don

When I took it apart, there were no serious flat spots, but some heavy scratches and could see some wear on opposite sides and I got some variation of the diameter when I put a dial caliper rotating around it. I had one on hand in case the original was worn, so I installed the new part for added confidence.

If yours has no defects and is perfectly round it should be fine to use.

Rich

[Gene M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Rich,
I was looking at you photos farther up in this posting. You may have already changed some of what I talk about. Your differential is not detailed correctly. The sheet metal bearing, seal dust shields are not cast iron as you cast sprayed the entire assembly. If you installed these shields after cast spray the differential they would look correct. The 7/16 bolts securing the spring mount cover s/b grade 8 black phosphate.

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Hi Gene, Yes I cast coated the dust shields too. Were they raw steel? I can wipe them down and use a less conspicuous clearcoat for protection.

Yes the spring mount cover bolts are now Grade 8 WB black phosphate. I also got 4 grade 8 WB bolts for the strut rod bracket to the differential mount. And I also changed all diff rear cover bolts to Grade 5 black phosphate. I had previously coated those while it was together too. I changed them one at a time and torqued.

Thanks for your observations. I'm open to any thoughts about this work, but it's primary use will be to drive so I want to protect the chassis and it's components from the elements.

Rich

[Gene M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Yes, bare steel stampings. But most of the reproduction stuff is zinc plated. You are doing such a good and correct job I just note some little things I noticed. I don't mean to be picky, just sharing. Keep up the sharing and we do enjoy the enthusiasm.

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Yes, bare steel stampings. But most of the reproduction stuff is zinc plated. You are doing such a good and correct job I just note some little things I noticed. I don't mean to be picky, just sharing. Keep up the sharing and we do enjoy the enthusiasm.

Gene, Don't feel you're being picky. I like the critiques whenever someone notices something. I'd rather know now than later. If it's something I already know, like certain finishes or wrong hardware, I will just take note and explain my reasoning.

I'm glad you brought up the dust shield issue as it wasn't identified in the JG. I had a feeling they were bare steel and glad you noticed. I will wipe them clean with solvent and give them a protective "natural" look which will then contrast with the differential case.

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My next task will include rebuilding the Master Cylinder and the Pressure Differential switch. I believe the Master Cylinder is original. It has the Delco symbol, cast# 5455509, the 2 bleeders, and the "DC" stamp in the machined boss at the front. When I get it apart and clean I'll look for the Julian date at the port boss also.

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"DC" stamp on the front machined area.
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Here's a view you don't see very often....
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This Pressure Differential Switch looks challenging. I suspect it is internally seized and will take some effort to rebuild. I may have to remove the inlet port seats to get at the internal valve to free it and replaced the seal. I'm concerned about getting replacement seats. In order to remove them they must be destroyed.
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Rich

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Master Cylinder, PDS updates below. I decided on a separate thread since these aren't really chassis parts.

https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthre...869#post747869

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Since I'm waiting for the engine rebuild I put the chassis aside.

I decided to do some body related work in preparation for reassembly. I still need to replace the #4 body mount captive nuts and cages, but need to remove the decklid and their 2 monster springs.

For now I needed to inspect the electrical system. I have acquired a new rear harness, but needed a detailed inspection of the main harness. This car has a new forward engine and lamp harness, as well as a new TI harness installed. They look fairly new with no problems.

However, the Dash harness was in question. I saw something strange in the engine bay while taking the master cylinder off the booster yesterday. The main Ignition feed in the engine bay feeding the TI harness to power the Amplifier.... It was RED, it should be Pink.

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I got under the dash to check it out. I inspected the wiring. Most of it looked good for a 48 year old harness. Then I found it. A splice with electrical tape around it. I removed the tape and found this....
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In it's past life, there must have been a problem in the engine bay, likely a cut Pink Ignition lead rubbing on the Distributor Shield. There may have been some smoke and a melted wire out there. Someone spliced in a new wire, not necessarily the way I would have done it though.

Then I removed the Fuse Panel to inspect it's wiring and Twin-Lock pins for the Engine Forward harness. It has signs of overheat and corrosion. All fuse clips have slight surface rust. There is also corrosion on the rear terminals to junctions and fuse clips.
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Here you can see the common flaw with the Bulkhead Twin-Lock connector for the Main Feed #12G Red wire which powers the entire electrical system. It has seen some heat over time. The pin has weakened as it's more compressed than the other pins. It's the lower left pin in each photo. Last one is the #12G Red Feed at the corner.
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A new Dash Harness has been ordered and will replace this marginal wiring. I will make one modification to it when I install it. I will add a fuse to the Ignition circuit which will be removable for judging if required. This will protect the Ignition Pink feed in the engine bay.

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Also, while under the dash I noticed something looking up above the pedals. There's a broken bolt holding the reinforcement plate in. THis one's going to be fun getting out. Advil time.
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From the front, Z-bar hole for the odometer cable.
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Rear Z-bar view looking rearward. I hope I can get a plier grip and turn it up and out.
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Rich