Rear Suspension question (spindles/trailing arms) - bearings automatically disturbed?

[Kyle K.]

First off, thank you in advance to the community at large for considering my question. I've been researching and reviewing a LOT of information here over the past couple of months but this is the first time I've needed to reach out for what is probably a really ignorant question.

I am in the process of reconditioning the rear suspension area of my '71 LS5 and I am down to the trailing arms. The movement of the spindle/bearing is perfect, no sounds whatsoever and motion is very fluid. However I want to get at the trailing arm and components for restoration/reconditioning.

So my question then, is it possible to simply remove the spindle nut/flange and remove the entire spindle assembly from the trailing arm without displacing bearings (i.e. does it remove as one unit that I can simply reinstall later, assuming the bearings are left untouched) or does the mere nature of this job automatically imply that the bearings must be disturbed/removed?

All I really want to do is remove the spindles so I can get at the rotor shields, caliper mount brackets, etc. I don't want to have it turn into a bearing job. I can't find an exact answer to this in the archives but a little common sense tells me I probably am not lucky enough to be able to simply pull the spindle without disturbing the bearings....can someone clarify?

Thanks!

[Michael W.]

Re: Rear Suspension question (spindles/trailing arms) - bearings automatically distur

It is possible to remove the bearing assembly intact, but if you don't how long it's been since the bearings were serviced (if ever) they're probably way overdue. GM introduced an inspection interval of around 30K miles on the later C3s.

[Kyle K.]

Re: Rear Suspension question (spindles/trailing arms) - bearings automatically distur

Well that is somewhat promising to hear. I am fairly confident that they have been serviced within the last 10 years, essentially I'm working on finishing/freshening up a previous restoration. But barring "bad" or "overdue service" the assembly should slide out?

[Steve G.]

Re: Rear Suspension question (spindles/trailing arms) - bearings automatically distur

No, you can't do it. When you remove the stub shaft the outer bearing comes with it. Sandwiched between the outer bearing and the axle flange is the outer seal. You will not be able to get the seal back in place with it on the stub shaft.

Once the stub shaft is out with the bearing and seal you use a brg splitter to remove the brg from the shaft. To put it back together you set the bearing in the housing and drive the seal in. Then the shaft gets pushed back into it.

[Michael W.]

Re: Rear Suspension question (spindles/trailing arms) - bearings automatically distur

Well that is somewhat promising to hear. I am fairly confident that they have been serviced within the last 10 years, essentially I'm working on finishing/freshening up a previous restoration. But barring "bad" or "overdue service" the assembly should slide out?

Here's what the removed assembly will look like. If you wish to remove the rotor dust shield the bearing will need to be split.

[Michael F.]

Re: Rear Suspension question (spindles/trailing arms) - bearings automatically distur

if it ain't broke, don't fix it sometimes the best solution.

[Steve G.]

Re: Rear Suspension question (spindles/trailing arms) - bearings automatically distur

How do you get at the 4 nuts that hold the spindle support to the trailing arm? There is no access hole in the axle flange on any of the ones I've done.
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[Mike Z.]

Re: Rear Suspension question (spindles/trailing arms) - bearings automatically distur

Been rebuilding these things for years. The bearing assemblies are press fitted onto the spindle/axle. It is impossible to remove either of the bearings without the proper specialty press tools that attach at the spindle support (lower shock mount) and at the brake caliper mounting bracket and press against the center of the axle. These bearings are (after correct end-play is established with a specialty mock up tool) pressed into place (with another specialty tool) and the nut torqued to 110lbs. The only other way to disassemble is using a floor press, which is not easy without some specialty tools to keep everything stable.
In other words this is not a Saturday afternoon project for the novice-it requires experience and specialty tools, several specialty tools to do the job efficiently and safely. Just read the shop manual for the details.
But, what is the alternative?-to "if it ain't broke don't fix it". Well, one could do that, but bearings of this era require regular maintenance-it was indicated GM says every 30k miles, sounds about right. Would you let your front bearings (very similar design bearings) go more than 30k and 40+ years without packing them with grease or replacing?-probably not. I have seen the aftermath of rear bearings seizing/failure and causing an accident. I strongly recommend, if your trailing arms have never been serviced, please, for safety sake; get them rebuilt by a competent rebuilder that has the proper equipment. Besides the bearings, the front of the arm is held in place using a rubber bushing-I would think after 40+ years, that rubber is dry rotted and perhaps failing. Not to mention servicing the e-brake assembly. Come on guys, threat your baby right-this is regular maintenance, and should not even be a question-think safety and enjoyment of your car. Just my opinion.
Mike

[Steve G.]

Re: Rear Suspension question (spindles/trailing arms) - bearings automatically distur

It is impossible to remove either of the bearings without the proper specialty press tools that attach at the spindle support (lower shock mount) and at the brake caliper mounting bracket and press against the center of the axle.

I have (had, don't even know where it is anymore) the press plate that mounts to the caliper and shock mount and never use it anymore. It is awkward to use and will only remove the stub shaft. Getting it back in requires the use of a swing press, which requires holding something solid against the back side while driving the shaft in.. It does not work on drum brake cars. I find it much faster and easier to remove the arm and do it in the press.

A word of caution on following the shop manual. If your manual is 63 it is very misleading. It says you simply remove the nut and yoke and slip the shaft out. As Mike said, nothing slips apart.

[Norm C.]

Re: Rear Suspension question (spindles/trailing arms) - bearings automatically distur

Mike.... great post.... your experience and obvious attention to detail and safety really comes through. But what was most enjoyable, is how you got everyone to step back away from the "trees" to get re-focused on the forest before us!! When looking at the trailing arms as a main component, to approach appears more obvious to attain all 3 aspects, maintenance, safety, detailing/restoration. Kyle, I'd love to claim the following mindset as my original, but was actually passed on to me by a master level judge and long time C3 enthusiast Dick Whittington the first time I had the car judged. When I did my trailing arms I was originally thinking along the same lines you are. With Dick's "bigger picture" thinking I did the following. I removed the trailing arm, being careful to mark and count the shims and took it to a highly recognized Corvette "maintenance" shop NOT a "Speed/Performance" shop. He disassembled the arms on a Friday. I took the parts home over the wknd for cleaning and detailing. (being careful to retain all originality) Took them back to him Monday morning for re-assembly. Had them back Monday night. IMHO, I gained the best of both worlds: High efficiency of my time and money. Peace of mind/safety knowing it's a professional installation using the correct tools with new bearings, seals and break pads, yet I did all of the cleaning and detailing myself. In short, as Dick stressed, Keep maintenance, safety and restoration in concert with each other, most often renders the best finished product. Thanks again Dick for passing on your wisdom!!!

[Gary R.]

Re: Rear Suspension question (spindles/trailing arms) - bearings automatically distur

Hi Kyle. Some good information given here for you. I do these everyday so if you want someone to ask a question directly to just give me a call. The original plates have a stamp in the back where the aftermarkets do not. Paragon sells stamped plates if you want them. Trying to refinish originals can be more costly then just buying the stamped ones. To get to them you have to remove the spindle and that will most certainly wreck the bearings, at least I would never reuse them. I have rebuilt some virgin arms from C2's that had -0- grease in them so I would expect you are going to have to go through them to do them right. I no longer use a press to get them apart since if used wrong will break parts. I use a 5 lb mini sledge and spindle knocker. If the outer bearings stays on that is a good sign. If the bearings come off you may have an undersize spindle so be sure to measure them.

[Jim T.]

Re: Rear Suspension question (spindles/trailing arms) - bearings automatically distur

Kyle an advertiser in the NCRS driveline is "Bairs", they do the complete work on the rear control arms with a mileage warranty. Bairs even supplies the shipping boxes for your control arms. It is more expensive than earlier years now, but everything is. You would not believe what you have to pay GM for a 1984-1996 gasket (easy and cheap to make) that seals the gas tank and gas tank filler hole together that used to cost less than $8.00.

[Joe L.]

Re: Rear Suspension question (spindles/trailing arms) - bearings automatically distur

You would not believe what you have to pay GM for a 1984-1996 gasket (easy and cheap to make) that seals the gas tank and gas tank filler hole together that used to cost less than $8.00.

Jim----

About 65 bucks, GM list.

[Terry M.]

Re: Rear Suspension question (spindles/trailing arms) - bearings automatically distur

I have (had, don't even know where it is anymore) the press plate that mounts to the caliper and shock mount and never use it anymore. It is awkward to use and will only remove the stub shaft. Getting it back in requires the use of a swing press, which requires holding something solid against the back side while driving the shaft in.. It does not work on drum brake cars. I find it much faster and easier to remove the arm and do it in the press.

A word of caution on following the shop manual. If your manual is 63 it is very misleading. It says you simply remove the nut and yoke and slip the shaft out. As Mike said, nothing slips apart.

Steve,
That 1963 shop manual is not as wrong as you think. The early 1963s did have a slip fit shaft, and since I believe the shop manual was written either before production or early in production -- it is correct for its time. I have no doubt someplace in the information supplied to the dealers and/or mechanics at the time is the information about the revised press fit of the axle shaft, but the shop manuals were never revised. This is also the case for other production running changes in other years. The service manuals rarely catch up with the production changes. This is one of the major reasons that newly revised NCRS TIM&JG now have copies of Service and Information Bulletins as well as Corvette related items from Chevrolet Service News as these were the main sources of information abut running changes back in the day.

[Timothy B.]

Re: Rear Suspension question (spindles/trailing arms) - bearings automatically distur

It's also important why the spindle was changed to the press/interference fit. With the first design, I imagine the inner bearing race could spin on the spindle causing wear, overheat and failure of the spindle (breakage). I am not sure why this happened in the rear and not in the front but I suspect the camber alignment but someone will know better.