1963 rear end question

[Bob W.]

Iam putting my rearend together should I put gasket cement on both sides of the gasket or one side ? thanks

[Gary R.]

Re: 1963 rear end question

I always put a light coat of ultra grey on the cleaned cover, lay on the gasket, then coat the other side of the gasket and place on the cleaned housing. Install the bolts and torque to 55ft/lb, wipe off seam and let setup 24 hours.

[Bob W.]

Re: 1963 rear end question

gary I was thinking of using permatex indian head gasket shellac . Thanks again

[Joe L.]

Re: 1963 rear end question

gary I was thinking of using permatex indian head gasket shellac . Thanks again

Bob------


I like Indian Head for a few things but I would not use it for the differential cover application.

[Bob W.]

Re: 1963 rear end question

Joe
What would you use here ?

[Leif A.]

Re: 1963 rear end question

I like Gary's instructions.

[Joe L.]

Re: 1963 rear end question

Joe
What would you use here ?

Bob-------


Just as Gary described.

[Bob W.]

Re: 1963 rear end question

Thank all for your replies ,who makes the ultra gray?

[Joe L.]

Re: 1963 rear end question

Thank all for your replies ,who makes the ultra gray?

Bob-----


Permatex. I prefer Ultra Black for this application. However, the Ultra Gray will work fine and its color more-or-less blends with the natural color of the casting. So, if any is visible it will be far less noticeable.

By the way, if you can, buy this in the 1/2 ounce tube. You'll have plenty for one-time use and, unless you use this kind of stuff frequently, you then won't have a lot left over that will be unusable the next time you have a use for any.

[Bob W.]

Re: 1963 rear end question

Joe. thanks again I know I can count on you and are other ncrs brothers !!!!

[Gary R.]

Re: 1963 rear end question

Joe is correct that you can also use Ultra Black. I have used it on differentials & Muncies many times. I like the grey for blending in as Joe mentions but also because it's a little thicker and setup faster. I do not use synthetic gear oils so if you do you should check to see if it will attack RTV's. This has been a problem with newer diff's so much so Permatex came out with a special sealant to use with them. With this old school work plain old 90 wt or 85-140. I use Lucas oil myself. I used to know a Permatex Tech named Rene who was one of the best at Permatex. He is no longer there but he always recommended the Black or Grey for this use- unless it was to be used with the newer oils.

[Bob W.]

Re: 1963 rear end question

Gary thanks for your help I will give you a call as l have other questions thanks again Bob

[Gary R.]

Re: 1963 rear end question

You're welcome to contact me anytime Bob, always glad to offer any advice if I can.

[Richard M.]

Re: 1963 rear end question

Gary, Joe, et al....

Old thread but just want to say thank you for your advice. I had a annoying drip from the rear cover gasket of this '67 differential and it had to be corrected.

FYI, I was able to remove the rear cover and differential crossmember as an assembly to do this task. After draining the oil using my drill operated pump, I removed the rear leaf spring and detached the inner struts after punching witness marks in the cam bolts. This to preserve the camber adjustments. I was then able to remove all differential cover bolts. The top 2 bolts were tricky but came out just past the crossmember.

I then loosened the sombrero bolts leaving a few threads to hold in place. After popping the crossmember down, I then removed the 2 bolts and I was then able to carefully pry the crossmember & cover assembly down and out of the way.
P4070035.jpgP4070036.jpgP4070038.jpgP4070039.jpg


I used the Permatex Ultra-Grey and your method of application. However, I brushed on a thin layer to the gasket, then after inserting 2 studs into the upper side holes of the case I then installed the gasket to the case. It stuck there just fine. I then brushed on another thin later of sealant on the gasket facing rear.

Then I brought the crossmember and cover assembly up and over the temporary studs and fastened with 2 nuts to hold in place. I then inserted all bolts and gradually torqued all to 55 lbs/ft. Then using a tall floor jack I raised the assembly up and into the sombrero mounts, refastened all hardware and torqued as required. Spring bolts were torqued with wheels and weight on ground.
P4070042.jpg
I will let the Ultra Grey cure for at least 24 hours before refilling the differential. Hopefully the cover leak is fixed.

Thanks for your guidance....

Rich

[Gary R.]

Re: 1963 rear end question

Hi Rich,
Glad it worked out for you, having a lift makes a big difference too. I typically don't recommend removing the cover, I would rather remove the diff for safety reasons. The diff is held in by the cover and front bracket, just make sure there is enough support there, the 1/2 shaft are helping.
Looks like a stock diff, are those flange head Ring Gear bolts or lockwashers making it appear that way? I also suppose you already checked the posi case for cracks but just in case you didn't look real close at the radius of the large window, many times that is where they should up.