67 crossmember bushing specs; conflicting?

[Dave K.]

What are the correct specs for the crossmember bushing? AIM says 55-65 ft. lbs and the Chassis Service Manual says 25 ft. lbs. Also does the rubber bushing need to be fully seated against the metal flange upon intstall? I believe the driver side threads are stripped; does anyone know if a heli coil will work?

[Michael W.]

Re: 67 crossmember bushing specs; conflicting?

Also does the rubber bushing need to be fully seated against the metal flange upon intstall?

https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthre...ack-onto-frame

[Joe L.]

Re: 67 crossmember bushing specs; conflicting?

What are the correct specs for the crossmember bushing? AIM says 55-65 ft. lbs and the Chassis Service Manual says 25 ft. lbs. Also does the rubber bushing need to be fully seated against the metal flange upon intstall? I believe the driver side threads are stripped; does anyone know if a heli coil will work?

Dave------


55-65 lb/ft is the correct spec for a 1967. A Heli-Coil should work, although I've never used one for this application. However, if it were me, I'd use a Thread-Sert for this repair because I think it would lock into the weld nut better.

[Dave K.]

Re: 67 crossmember bushing specs; conflicting?

At 55-65 lb/ft I assume the bushing should some how be pressed up against the metal flange prior to putting the bolt on and torquing. The reason i say this is because i initially set my torque wrench to 60 lb.ft and I didn't even come close to that before the welded nut started to strip (popping without drawing the bushing up any further). The bushing was still 1.5 inches away from being fully seated against the flange. I can still put the bolt into the threaded nut and it holds the bolt; although sloppy from side to side movement. It won't stay on the threads to keep drawing the bushing up (as I said it starts spinning and popping).

[Michael W.]

Re: 67 crossmember bushing specs; conflicting?

At 55-65 lb/ft I assume the bushing should some how be pressed up against the metal flange prior to putting the bolt on and torquing. The reason i say this is because i initially set my torque wrench to 60 lb.ft and I didn't even come close to that before the welded nut started to strip (popping without drawing the bushing up any further). The bushing was still 1.5 inches away from being fully seated against the flange. I can still put the bolt into the threaded nut and it holds the bolt; although sloppy from side to side movement. It won't stay on the threads to keep drawing the bushing up (as I said it starts spinning and popping).

I don't follow why you're trying to draw the bushing in with a bolt. The 'cup' on the frame fits inside the corresponding 'cup' on the bushing with minimal effort.

Is the bushing installed on the cross member?

[Dave K.]

Re: 67 crossmember bushing specs; conflicting?

I can't get the cup on the bushing fully seated up on the cup that is hanging down from the frame. I even used grease. Once i got the bolt started on the threads i thought the tightening of the bolt would then draw the bushing cup up to the top of the frame cup so the rubber is touching the metal. That is why i think it needs to be pressed (somehow; C- clamp) on first all the way so the bushing is fully on then put bolt in and torque to 25 or 55????

[John H.]

Re: 67 crossmember bushing specs; conflicting?

I can't get the cup on the bushing fully seated up on the cup that is hanging down from the frame. I even used grease. Once i got the bolt started on the threads i thought the tightening of the bolt would then draw the bushing cup up to the top of the frame cup so the rubber is touching the metal. That is why i think it needs to be pressed (somehow; C- clamp) on first all the way so the bushing is fully on then put bolt in and torque to 25 or 55????

Dave -

The top of the bushing will never come anywhere near touching the frame crossmember - there's a design gap between the two; the 55 lb-ft. torque shown in the Assembly Manual is correct, and always has been. If you don't have the Assembly Manual, you need to get one.


BushingSection640.jpgXmbrAssy800.JPGXmbrDone800.JPG

[Dave K.]

Re: 67 crossmember bushing specs; conflicting?

John, Since the bolt starts to spin and not continue to tighten on the internal threaded nut I before i even get to 55 lb-ft I think i will need to use a heli coil or thread sert. I don't want to replace that entire welded bracket because of that threaded bolt. Any ideas?

[Michael W.]

Re: 67 crossmember bushing specs; conflicting?

I can't get the cup on the bushing fully seated up on the cup that is hanging down from the frame. I even used grease. Once i got the bolt started on the threads i thought the tightening of the bolt would then draw the bushing cup up to the top of the frame cup so the rubber is touching the metal. That is why i think it needs to be pressed (somehow; C- clamp) on first all the way so the bushing is fully on then put bolt in and torque to 25 or 55????

As stated in your other post asking the same question, the bushing is not supposed to touch the frame, in fact it must NOT touch the frame to retain it's vibration damping function.