1965 L-76 327/365 tune-up advice - NCRS Discussion Boards

1965 L-76 327/365 tune-up advice

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  • Philip A.
    Expired
    • February 26, 2008
    • 329

    #16
    Re: 1965 L-76 327/365 tune-up advice

    Originally posted by Duke Williams (22045)
    You should also check the centrifugal and verify that it conforms to shop manual specs. It is difficult to get an acceptable idle at much less than 900 with the 30-30 cam, and since the centrifugal should start at 700 you need to get the speed down below this to set initial, but the engine may stall.

    So the way to set timing is to set what is called "total WOT advance", which is simulated by disconnecting and plugging the VAC. Then rev the engine to a few hundred revs above the point where the centifugal stops advancing that you verfied as above, set the dial at 38, and rotate the dist. to bring the balancer notch to zero on the tab. If it doesn't detonate you are good to go, and you can even try 39-40.

    Reconnect the VAC and check "total idle advance" at 900. It should be about 32-34 (14 initial, 16 vacuum and 2-4 centrifugal) and manifold vacuum should be about 10" Hg. Then rev the engine to above where the centrifugal stops and check "total cruise advance". It should be about 54 degrees (14 + 24 + 16)

    The following article will tell you what contact set to install. Note that all the NAPA/Echlin contact sets are manufacturered by Standard Motor Products and are available in other brand boxes including Delco. Any parts store should be able to cross the NAPA/Echlin number to whatever "brand" they carry... Delco, Standard, Niehoff, BWD, etc.

    Duke
    Duke
    Can you comment on Standard Blue Streak points DR2270P? Also, I do not understand the second paragraph second sentence. How do I verify/determine the rpm where the centrifugal advance stops? I am used to non SHP engines where idle setting is straight forward.
    Phill

    Comment

    • Stuart F.
      Expired
      • August 31, 1996
      • 4676

      #17
      Re: 1965 L-76 327/365 tune-up advice

      Back in my "points" days (my teens, I think), I used to adjust gaps and/or dwells based on the basis of the ever present prospect of "wear", I.e. Adjusting at the high end of tolerance so that when the points rubbing block wore (say in a 1000 miles or so), the perfect state of tune would be arrived at and, hopefully, they would last longer.

      Stu Fox

      Comment

      • Michael J.
        Extremely Frequent Poster
        • January 27, 2009
        • 7114

        #18
        Big Tanks In the High Mountains of New Mexico

        Comment

        • Duke W.
          Beyond Control Poster
          • January 1, 1993
          • 15649

          #19
          Re: 1965 L-76 327/365 tune-up advice

          Originally posted by Philip Arena (48654)
          Duke
          Can you comment on Standard Blue Streak points DR2270P? Also, I do not understand the second paragraph second sentence. How do I verify/determine the rpm where the centrifugal advance stops? I am used to non SHP engines where idle setting is straight forward.
          Phill
          DR2270P is the exact same part as NAPA/Echlin CS86. manufactured by Standard Motor Products. Standard sells under their own brand name, which is the case here, and also packages the part in different brand boxes (including "Delco") that go through different distribution channels.

          To set total WOT advance, disconnect and plug the VAC hose, set the dial at 30 and rev the engine until the balancer notch stops moving and record the RPM. The notch should end up somewhere on the timing tab. Then set the dial to 38 and rev the engine to above the speed that you measured max centrifugal, and rotate the distributor until the balancer notch is at zero on the tab.

          Or you can set the initial at below where the centrifugal starts (not easy on some SHP engines that won't idle stably below this speed), then rev the engine to above where the centrifugal stops and you should be at about 38 degrees. The proper range is 36-40, and if it doesn't detonate at 38 feel free to go to 39 or 40.

          Before doing the above check the specs in the shop manual or AMA specs so you know about where it should start and end assuming the dist. has not been modified. Some engines may be as high as 5100. If that's the case get the Mr. Gasket 928G spring kit, and install the silver or gold springs, which should bring it down to 3000-3500.

          Duke

          Comment

          • William F.
            Extremely Frequent Poster
            • June 9, 2009
            • 1362

            #20
            Re: 1965 L-76 327/365 tune-up advice

            After you get timing set with vac hose disconnected and plugged, you RECONNECT vac to set idle speed. Dwell can be set with vac connected. Set dwell before setting timing though since dwell affects timing.

            Comment

            • Philip A.
              Expired
              • February 26, 2008
              • 329

              #21
              Re: 1965 L-76 327/365 tune-up advice

              Originally posted by William Ford (50517)
              After you get timing set with vac hose disconnected and plugged, you RECONNECT vac to set idle speed. Dwell can be set with vac connected. Set dwell before setting timing though since dwell affects timing.
              Thanks Bill

              Stu / Duke
              On the likely chance that the distrib will not perform to OE spec, who is out there that I could send the distrib to for a complete restoration/rebuild and tune to OE spec

              Comment

              • Michael J.
                Extremely Frequent Poster
                • January 27, 2009
                • 7114

                #22
                Re: 1965 L-76 327/365 tune-up advice

                NCRS member Bill Clupper used to do that, IIRC.
                Big Tanks In the High Mountains of New Mexico

                Comment

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