1965 L76 327/365 vac advance B??
I cannot find in archives. What is the correct can? Has one marked B21. Car is manual shift, no P/S, no P/B, no A/C, no TI. I know the experts on here know this.n thanks.
Phil
Phil
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Re: 1965 L76 327/365 vac advance B??
B28, IIRC, will give Duke's 2 inch rule.Big Tanks In the High Mountains of New Mexico -
Re: 1965 L76 327/365 vac advance B??
The B-21 is an aftermarket ID, the flange stamp will be "236" (actual part number 1116236) Specs are (distributor degrees and speed 1@460, and 12 @ 1175) So multiply by two for engine rpm and crank advance and you will see the best vacuum can ever for SHP smallblocks. As to how close your B-21 is to the origina,. you need a timing light and a degreed damper to check unless you can find someone with a distributor machine to check it off the car.Bill Clupper #618Comment
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Re: 1965 L76 327/365 vac advance B??
Is the engine stock configuration? Have you done a vacuum check off of full manifold vacuum? Michael is correct in stating that the B28 is correct for an original '65 327/365 but a vacuum can doesn't know what your engine is supposed to be or what cam is installed. I would check your engine's actual vacuum at around 650-700RPM and get back with us with those results, then we can suggest the appropriate vacuum can for your specific application.Leif
'67 Coupe L79, M21, C60, N14, N40, J50, A31, U69, A01, QB1
Top Flight 2017 Lone Star RegionalComment
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Re: 1965 L76 327/365 vac advance B??
Engine was rebuilt to stock config with correct cam. Distrib has a pointless conversion module which has failed for the second time. I am returning back to points and noticed the vac can numbers and thought to check. I can not tell you the actual vac as engine will not fire due to module and I have not yet converted back to points. Thanks for the repliesComment
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Re: 1965 L76 327/365 vac advance B??
In that case I would get a B28 after you get the points installed and see how it works, sounds like it would work. I have also tried and given up on the "black boxes" of Petronix, etc. and only have stock points. I think Rock Auto still sells the B28 (I bought three a while back), if not NAPA may have it. Good luck!Big Tanks In the High Mountains of New MexicoComment
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Re: 1965 L76 327/365 vac advance B??
Philip,
What distributor conversion did you use that failed? Just curious..Comment
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Re: 1965 L76 327/365 vac advance B??
Unit was Lectric Limited Breakerless SE conversion.Comment
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Re: 1965 L76 327/365 vac advance B??
We all have different experiences with electronic conversions. Most of those I have talked with have nothing but praises for them. Perhaps it has to do with who and how they were installed. My Pertronics experiences have been great. I first started with the basic unit with a stock coil, then upgraded to a II unit with their Flamethrower coil running direct 12volt ignition input. I have failed more VAC cans then conversion units (2 to 0). That's why I carry a spare B28 can, but no points spare for many years. I also use a Dyna Flite ball bearing conversion plate and "Blue Dot" advance weight springs. Same as I have had for over 20 years.
With points, I had to change plugs frequently as once fouled, for any reason, they wouldn't recover. They would be fine for an L-75, but not an L-76 RPM range. My current set of AC 44's have been in my engine for about 12 years and will pull red line with no sweat anytime.
Stu FoxComment
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Re: 1965 L76 327/365 vac advance B??
Stu
thanks for the reply. I have had two failures of the module in 10 years. First install was previous owner and second was me. Install is straight forward and I am confident that is not contributing. Perhaps 5 years is life expectancy of the magnets in the unit. I appreciate the superiority of electronic over points, but this failure rate is not cost effective or acceptable to me. I have already aquired the 236 can, points, condenser, and a rotor. I will see how I fair after conversion back to stock. If I experience the problems you had I will bite the bullet and purchase another electronic conversion.
PhilComment
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Re: 1965 L76 327/365 vac advance B??
I guess the main concept that I find important is that once you install points and run your engine they begin to deterioate as the rubbing block wears. So the delema I guess is which will give up first; the points or the magnets. I have been working with Chevy V8's since 1955 and have fiddled with hundreds of sets of points and changed a lot of spark plugs. In the last 42 years I have had only 3 electronic ignition conversions, and the only problem I ever had was a failed inline "pin" connector on a Prestolite (Wards) unit (also used by AMC under a different name). I am batting 1000 with Pertronics, including many conversions I set up for others. But it's your choice of poison, you might say.
Good luck.
Stu FoxComment
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Re: 1965 L76 327/365 vac advance B??
Stu
I agree with everything you have stated. The Lectric limited unit is a single wire hook-up (the point lead to coil positive). I suspect this unit has internal magnets. I believe the Pertronics and others have multiple wires. This leads me to believe they do not have internal magnets but coil-type posts to create magnetic field. This could explain your past success versus my experience. I put less than 150 miles on the car each year so point wear is not a major concern. If I am unhappy with points performance the next conversion will be a Pertonics. Thanks for replying
PhilComment
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Re: 1965 L76 327/365 vac advance B??
Philip,
I am surprised by your experience with the Breakerless SE points conversion. I have this unit installed in my 67 distributor and if it ever failed I would just go back to points. Are you using a ballast resistor and a stock coil, I have not heard of many failures with this unit let alone two with the same car, for sure, I would be on the phone with them.Comment
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Re: 1965 L76 327/365 vac advance B??
Tim
Ballast resistor and stock coil are in use. How long has your unit been in place? I will be calling them too.
PhilComment
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Re: 1965 L76 327/365 vac advance B??
Phil;
In post #12 you stated that with the breakerless SE unit you have a single wire hook-up "the point lead to coil positive"??
Are sure about this??
Stu FoxComment
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