1964 roadster upper and lower A-arms have been sent out to be restored. The restorer only has American made ball joints without the unthreaded guide tip at the end of the shaft thus are not correct and will probably lose points when judged. Apparently there are the correct configuration ball joints available made in Asia. The restorer won't use them as he has seen them fail and I don't want to use any parts made overseas on my car. My options are: 1) Have him go ahead with the American made ball joints and take the point hit. 2) Locate NOS GM made ball joints and have him install these (the problem is I can't find them). 3) Go with the foreign made ball joints and hope for the best. This is a body off restoration, I plan on driving the car and having it judged. Your advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Michael Kalogridis (518) 248-1105
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Re: C-2 ball joint advice please.
Michael,
Try Americas Finest Corvettes. They claim that their's are dead on. -
Re: C-2 ball joint advice please.
Did you send them to Bair's ??
I would install USA made MOOG joints and take the hit in judging points. Especially if you plan to drive the car.
The "other company" with the exact reproduction overseas made ball joints is AFC. I have not personally heard of any issues with their product, but that doesn't mean much. I might take a chance with them for a trailer queen judged car that would not be regularly driven.
FWIW.
LarryComment
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Re: C-2 ball joint advice please.
I use MOOG's on all my vettes and on the arms I rebuild. However, I am not concerned about judging - only driving the cars. What is more important to you, judging or driving?Comment
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Re: C-2 ball joint advice please.
Even as a judge, if you're that worried about the offshore source of the AFC joints I'd buy the best MOOG joints I could and live with it. I think it's 1-2 points at most, not enough to worry about for the vast majority of us.Vice-Chairman (West), Michigan Chapter NCRS
71 "deer modified" coupe
72 5-Star Bowtie / Duntov coupe. https://www.flickr.com/photos/124695...57649252735124
2008 coupe
Available stickers: Engine suffix code, exhaust tips & mufflers, shocks, AIR diverter valve broadcast code.Comment
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Re: C-2 ball joint advice please.
Modify the Moog parts. Pilot drill the end, make a lead in piece and press them in. Simple, I made my own correct style ball joints for uppers and lowers using USA made ball joints.
I HATE china made stuff!Comment
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Re: C-2 ball joint advice please.
Thanks everyone, that is very helpful. Where can I get the Moogs? mkComment
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Re: C-2 ball joint advice please.
Just about anywhere: NAPA, etc. You can also go on-line and see who carries them. Perhaps Rock Auto or other major parts place. They are not special. Just make sure you request the Made in USA ones.
Gary R should have part numbers for you. Ask him.
LarryComment
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Re: C-2 ball joint advice please.
I just bought a set of correct GM lowers from Pete Lindahl in NM. I think he bought another set at Carlisle . (pclindahl@comcast.net)Comment
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Re: C-2 ball joint advice please.
The part number that Rock Auto shows for the lower is K6035 for $26 and says it US made. Amazon sells them also for $28. I don't see why these couldn't be riveted in place.
The upper will need to be bolted in because the holes will be too large for the rivets. The Moog part number is K6034 Rock Auto's price is $39 and they claim is US Made. Amazon sells the same part number for $44. This part appears to me to be a sealed part without a grease zerk.
Rock Auto also shows a US made ACDelco # 45D0010 upper that does grease zerk. Amazon sells this part for $37. IMO this part is has a much closer appearance to the OE part if the photos are accurate.
Below is the OE Upper compared to a reproduction from LIC a couple of years ago. The repop has a zerk but comes with a warning not to use it. I used the repops on my arms because I really didn't know any better. Time will tell how long they last.
MikeLast edited by Mike E.; September 2, 2014, 12:56 PM.Comment
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Re: C-2 ball joint advice please.
The part number that Rock Auto shows for the lower is K6035 for $26 and says it US made. Amazon sells them also for $28. I don't see why these couldn't be riveted in place.
The upper will need to be bolted in because the holes will be too large for the rivets. The Moog part number is K6034 Rock Auto's price is $39 and they claim is US Made. Amazon sells the same part number for $44. This part appears to me to be a sealed part without a grease zerk.
Rock Auto also shows a US made ACDelco # 45D0010 upper that does grease zerk. Amazon sells this part for $37. IMO this part is has a much closer appearance to the OE part if the photos are accurate.
Below is the OE Upper compared to a reproduction from LIC a couple of years ago. The repop has a zerk but comes with a warning not to use it. I used the repops on my arms because I really didn't know any better. Time will tell how long they last.
Mike
Mike------
The Moog lower joints can be riveted just like original ball joints----no problem, at all.
The upper Moog joints can be riveted, too. The only thing is one needs to use 5/16" rivets instead of the 1/4" originally used.
The main configurational difference between the aftermarket joints and original GM (or the reproductions) is the seal and the seal retainer.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: C-2 ball joint advice please.
I bought moog at autozone for another gm vehicle so might check them also....good luck and buy american and qualityMichael
70 Mulsanne Blue LT-1
03 Electron Blue Z06Comment
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Re: C-2 ball joint advice please.
[QUOTE=Bill Lennox (41387);718906]Sorry to jump in but do you have any pics Gene? This sounds very promising. Did you reuse the original dust boots?
Thanks,
Bill,
I used the Moog joint as is, just drill a 1/8" hole to the edge of the cotter pin hole. Turn down round stock to minor diameter of thread with a 1/8" diameter pilot on one end about 3/16" long to press into hole I drilled.
modified ball joint.jpgComment
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