67 Dash Install Best Way

[James B.]

I have done a couple of mid-year restorations but the dash was always in place so I installed the cluster (using studs to suspend), radio, clock etc and struggled to connect all the wires, tach and speedometer cables. Has anyone installed the dash complete with all the wiring and connections done in advance? I seems to me that it would have been done that way at St. Louis.
I just found an old post by John Hinckley, I think saying the dash wiring loom was installed to the cluster on the bench and then that assembly was installed in the dash. The Radio, speaker and clock were then installed in the dash.
Will appreciate any help, advice. Regards, Jim B

[John H.]

Re: 67 Dash Install Best Way

I have done a couple of mid-year restorations but the dash was always in place so I installed the cluster (using studs to suspend), radio, clock etc and struggled to connect all the wires, tach and speedometer cables. Has anyone installed the dash complete with all the wiring and connections done in advance? I seems to me that it would have been done that way at St. Louis.
I just found an old post by John Hinckley, I think saying the dash wiring loom was installed to the cluster on the bench and then that assembly was installed in the dash. The Radio, speaker and clock were then installed in the dash.
Will appreciate any help, advice. Regards, Jim B

Jim -

In the plant, the main fiberglass dash was subassembled off-line on the bench with the eyebrow pads, speaker grille/defroster outlet and speaker, clock bracket, and radio, and that assembly was installed in the car as a unit (bolts across the top, rivets on the ends, bond in the middle). The inside heater case and control cables were already in the car.

The cluster was also subassembled off-line on the bench, including the dash harness and light switch, wiper switch, lighter, and ignition switch; it went to the car with the fuse block and dimmer switch dropped over the dash brace, the tach and speedo cables were connected, and the five cluster screws were driven. Then the fuse block and dimmer switch were secured to the firewall and floor, and the right side wiring (radio, clock, glove box light wire, etc.) was routed and connected, and the glove box was installed, and the courtesy light wires and switches were installed.

[James B.]

Re: 67 Dash Install Best Way

John, thanks, I'll try it that way.

[Bob R.]

Re: 67 Dash Install Best Way

While that might have worked well on the assembly line I think it would be more work in the restoration work we do now. The wiring harness is already in place with the fuse block fastened to the fire wall and the oil line connection is always the most difficult thing to get connected. I just installed an entire dash in my 63 and I attached the gauge cluster to all of the wires, tach cable, speedo cable, oil line and then let it all rest on the cross brace and hang then I installed the fiberglass center section over it attaching it with bolts to the window surround and rivets to the door openings. Then I attached the gauges to the installed fiberglass. I have done this installation different ways in the past and this method worked really well.

[James B.]

Re: 67 Dash Install Best Way

Bob, that sounds interesting. I've got the cables and oil line out of the firewall so those will be easier as I can attach to the cluster and then push further through the firewall grommet once they are connected to the cluster. I'll try your way. Just concerned that after all I've spent getting the cluster restored and restoring the dash I don't want to scratch anything. I am also just at the body primer stage (almost) so I've got a few months yet to think about the interior installation. thanks for your suggestion.

[Dennis O.]

Re: 67 Dash Install Best Way

I don't want to hi-jack this thread, but there seems to be some folks with knowledge and experience on here. To put it bluntly, I am 72 years old, arthritic, and a little over weight. The ammeter on my '67 L79 doesn't work. Realistically, should I try to fix this myself, or should I spend the money (I'm not rich) to have it done?

[William C.]

Re: 67 Dash Install Best Way

First try to figure out if the gauge or the wiring is at fault. That is not a true ammeter, it if you look at the wiring diagram, it is a voltmeter that measures the voltage drop across the ends of a wire in the harness, and infers the amps from the voltage drop.

[Dennis O.]

Re: 67 Dash Install Best Way

I know all of that. I have done some preliminary investigation and checked the factory manual. I don't see how I can get to the wiring to check it. The factory manuual says that the cluster has to be removed to do anything with the gauge. If you are aware on any shortcuts that allow me to get at this thing without removing the cluster, I'm all ears.

[Bob R.]

Re: 67 Dash Install Best Way

Dennis
It might be possible to remove the gauge with the cluster in but I can promise you it won't be easy. I think I would use the long threaded 1/4" rods in place of the cluster screws and try to pull the cluster out enough to give some room to work. I usually remove the drivers seat and slide myself upside down on the floor board to work on anything under the dash. It will not be a fun project you may want to have a repair shop tackle it.

[F S.]

Re: 67 Dash Install Best Way

So, did I understand that the clock and radio can be put into the dash, while it is out of the car ? Before it is put into the car, as an assembly ?

[Dennis O.]

Re: 67 Dash Install Best Way

I had forgotten about this thread. All I can add is that after removing the driver's seat and steering wheel, I had very little trouble getting my fat old ass into the car and accessing the ammeter connections from the bottom. Thanks for the advice, Bob.

[John H.]

Re: 67 Dash Install Best Way

So, did I understand that the clock and radio can be put into the dash, while it is out of the car ? Before it is put into the car, as an assembly ?

FW -

Yes, it can - that's how the plant did it.

[F S.]

Re: 67 Dash Install Best Way

Thank you, John. That will be the plan. I have recently renewed my membership in the Michigan chapter, this last year. I have been working on my 65 396 for 2 years now, almost finished. One step forward some days, and 2 steps back FRED

[Steve G.]

Re: 67 Dash Install Best Way

Curious about the factory install.

I've picked up where someone else left off, car (67) was stripped and primed. Cross brace had been sprayed olive zinc primer. I was told by the guy that started the resto b4 he passed away that there should be traces of body color overspray on the frt (inside) of the brace from when the windshield opening was shot, indicating the dash would not have been in the car. When did the ends of the dash at the jambs get painted? Paint is over the rivets so had to be after install, which means it shouldn't have paint on the brace.

While we're on the topic, I blacked out most of the visible face of the cross bar with semi gloss black based on my memory of other cars. Anyone have any pics of this part on an unrestored 67?

On the interior heater box, the box should be unpainted as I understand. The box I have had been sprayed black, including the door mechanisms. In cleaning that all up, I believe the little plates with the mounting studs that go through the firewall should be black. But the rivets unpainted right?

I have no pics of the car being taken apart, so if anyone has an online album of pics reference pics as they disassembled a 67, I'd love to see them. I have now started one for this 67 here and one for a 69 here if they can be of help to anyone here.

[John H.]

Re: 67 Dash Install Best Way

Curious about the factory install.

I've picked up where someone else left off, car (67) was stripped and primed. Cross brace had been sprayed olive zinc primer. I was told by the guy that started the resto b4 he passed away that there should be traces of body color overspray on the frt (inside) of the brace from when the windshield opening was shot, indicating the dash would not have been in the car.When did the ends of the dash at the jambs get painted? Paint is over the rivets so had to be after install, which means it shouldn't have paint on the brace.

While we're on the topic, I blacked out most of the visible face of the cross bar with semi gloss black based on my memory of other cars. Anyone have any pics of this part on an unrestored 67?

On the interior heater box, the box should be unpainted as I understand. The box I have had been sprayed black, including the door mechanisms. In cleaning that all up, I believe the little plates with the mounting studs that go through the firewall should be black.But the rivets unpainted right?

Steve -

The riveted dash end "tabs" that extend into the door opening were masked off and painted (when the exterior and interior colors contrasted) in Final Paint Repair, after the car was on wheels and driveable, but before the interior soft trim was installed (that was done last, on the Final Trim Line).

The plates that carry the threaded mounting studs on the interior heater box are unpainted - they were originally zinc-plated; see photo below.


HeaterBox2.jpg