Reinstalling Trans and Rear Suspension and Torque

[Bill L.]

[Larry M.]

Re: Reinstalling Trans and Rear Suspension and Torque

Bill:

I'm not certain that it matters. Most important for the suspension components is that the car be on it's wheels AND THAT THE "FULLY LOADED" DIMENSIONS SHOWN IN THE AIM ARE ACHIEVED prior to torqueing. This ensures that the suspension components and bushings etc are tightened at their optimum point per design.

I had to add about 150 pounds of ballast to the inside rear of my 1967 car when I did this after the rear suspension rebuild.

Larry

[Michael F.]

Re: Reinstalling Trans and Rear Suspension and Torque

why is that, they were not put together that way?

[Terry M.]

Re: Reinstalling Trans and Rear Suspension and Torque

why is that, they were not put together that way?

As a matter of fact Michel the suspension components were torqued at design height while the frames were up-side down on the frame line. None other than John Hinckley had a hand in designing the machinery that compressed the suspension to ride height specs and held it there while the adjustment shims were inserted and the fasteners were torqued. John has posted pictures of these machines in past threads.

One has to understand the construction and function of the rubber suspension bushings to understand the need to torque them at design height, and it is very many words to explain. Please believe me(us) your suspension bushings will live a whole lot longer if you follow these simple instructions.

[Bill L.]

Re: Reinstalling Trans and Rear Suspension and Torque

As a matter of fact Michel the suspension components were torqued at design height while the frames were up-side down on the frame line. None other than John Hinckley had a hand in designing the machinery that compressed the suspension to ride height specs and held it there while the adjustment shims were inserted and the fasteners were torqued. John has posted pictures of these machines in past threads.

One has to understand the construction and function of the rubber suspension bushings to understand the need to torque them at design height, and it is very many words to explain. Please believe me(us) your suspension bushings will live a whole lot longer if you follow these simple instructions.

Hmmm. This may be a challenge reaching underneath with the wheels/tires on the ground. I am correct to think that any place there is a rubber bushing/mount that final torque should be performed with full weight on wheels.

I did not do anything with the front suspension yet so the front end should be fine.

Thanks,


Bill

[Terry M.]

Re: Reinstalling Trans and Rear Suspension and Torque

[QUOTE=Bill Lennox (41387);718459]Hmmm. This may be a challenge reaching underneath with the wheels/tires on the ground. I am correct to think that any place there is a rubber bushing/mount that final torque should be performed with full weight on wheels.

I did not do anything with the front suspension yet so the front end should be fine.

Thanks,
Bill,
You do not necessarily need full car weight on the wheels. The suspension only needs to be at design ride height; however, for most of us, as a practical matter, that means full weight on the wheels. If one has a drive-on hoist (typically four-post), or has access to one, the job is a snap. Just leave the bolts/nuts for those rubber bushings loose and torque to spec when the body and interior is back on the chassis. Upper inner front bushings can be accessed from the top of the car, and all rear and lower front inner can be reached from the bottom.

This is one place where belonging to a chapter might help (one of many places). Even if you don't have a drive-on lift, borrowing one for a few hours and trailering ones completed car across town or even a hundred miles is a good excuse to get together with some friends and show off your newly completed (nearly completed) project.

[Bill L.]

Re: Reinstalling Trans and Rear Suspension and Torque

[QUOTE=Terry McManmon (3966);718470]

Hmmm. This may be a challenge reaching underneath with the wheels/tires on the ground. I am correct to think that any place there is a rubber bushing/mount that final torque should be performed with full weight on wheels.

I did not do anything with the front suspension yet so the front end should be fine.

Thanks,
Bill,
You do not necessarily need full car weight on the wheels. The suspension only needs to be at design ride height; however, for most of us, as a practical matter, that means full weight on the wheels. If one has a drive-on hoist (typically four-post), or has access to one, the job is a snap. Just leave the bolts/nuts for those rubber bushings loose and torque to spec when the body and interior is back on the chassis. Upper inner front bushings can be accessed from the top of the car, and all rear and lower front inner can be reached from the bottom.

This is one place where belonging to a chapter might help (one of many places). Even if you don't have a drive-on lift, borrowing one for a few hours and trailering ones completed car across town or even a hundred miles is a good excuse to get together with some friends and show off your newly completed (nearly completed) project.

Thanks Terry. I may had someone who has a lift .

Bill

[Larry M.]

[Jim T.]

Re: Reinstalling Trans and Rear Suspension and Torque

Rear control arm connection to the frame connection is one that is loosened or removed during alignment to move alignment shims. I have found the attachment bolt loose enough that the shims move too easy after the technician does an alignment on my 70. To me this is a somewhat difficult location to access to tighten/torque the connection bolt. Something to check after a rear alignment. Removing the rear tire and supporting the control arm with the weight of the car on the control arm gives easier access to tighten the bolt.

[Bill L.]

Re: Reinstalling Trans and Rear Suspension and Torque

Rear control arm connection to the frame connection is one that is loosened or removed during alignment to move alignment shims. I have found the attachment bolt loose enough that the shims move too easy after the technician does an alignment on my 70. To me this is a somewhat difficult location to access to tighten/torque the connection bolt. Something to check after a rear alignment. Removing the rear tire and supporting the control arm with the weight of the car on the control arm gives easier access to tighten the bolt.

Thanks Jim.

70 is unique with the unslotted shims. I saved the originals and they will be reused as needed.

I will double check. I am having a VERY reputable corvette shop perform the alignment when ready.

Busy on family ride repairs this weekend or she might be back on her wheels.



Bill