1971 frame repairs does this look okay?

[Daniel D.]

I'm finally beginning my 1971 frame repairs, do you think this looks okay?

I started by leveling frame at side rails and welded everything in place then welded angle irons cross ways front and back

I used 1/4" X 1 1/2" angle irons, these are very rigid,

I am replacing: LEFT & RIGHT FRAME RAILS 48" SECTIONS
# 3 CROSS MEMBER

[Paul D.]

Re: 1971 frame repairs does this look okay?

That looks very secure and will probably hold things in place. My question to you is, have you made sure the frame is completely in spec as is? Have you checked for square or twist based on data point measurements? Weakened (rusty) frames can really move around after releasing from the body. I may be making an ASSumption, but asking for opinions here leads me to believe you may not have a lot of experience in frame repairs. Mistakes made now will probably not come to light again until body drop or time for final alignment. Good luck on this project. Chip.

[Daniel D.]

Re: 1971 frame repairs does this look okay?

This is my first frame repair, Is there an info resource available somewhere for the procedure to check for square?

[Paul D.]

Re: 1971 frame repairs does this look okay?

Not sure a "procedure" is given, but the data points and lots of measurements are listed in the factory service manuals. Maybe someone with computer skills greater than mine could please post up a copy. Try searching the archives as I'm sure I've seen that info on here before. Chip.

[Daniel D.]

Re: 1971 frame repairs does this look okay?

Thanks, too tired tonight, tomorrow is a good day

[Bill W.]

Re: 1971 frame repairs does this look okay?

Make sure all your measurements are correct . The frame will shrink a little as it is welded so skip around dont weld one spot at a time . I would brace it front to back .

[Gene M.]

Re: 1971 frame repairs does this look okay?

Daniel,
You are replacing the entire center section of the frame. A lot of welding. Keep in mind that 1/4" movement is inches at each end. I did a similar restoration years ago. I was "LUCKY" nothing moved out of position. But I did another about the same and had one corner at the rear move an inch and half. That went to frame shop for hydraulic straightening. It still was never as good as original. I had to massage all the rear bumper brackets to fit. The body shimming was "extensive" compared to original.

[Daniel D.]

Re: 1971 frame repairs does this look okay?

I'm glad you confirmed this for me, I was thinking that same thing. Thanks D

[Daniel D.]

Re: 1971 frame repairs does this look okay?

Yes, also the front bottom plate, the last rear cross member piece, and the lower gussets as well for #3 cross member, I should receive everything from Paragon tomorrow and the front inner horns also. I was gonna build a jig that would relocate the # 2 & 3 body mounts back in their exact place

[Daniel D.]

Re: 1971 frame repairs does this look okay?

I was wondering about a front to back brace, i'll do that too and post another pic.

[Daniel D.]

Re: 1971 frame repairs does this look okay?

Just looking at the frame besides the decay, it does not appear to have been in a collision at all. According to what remains of the emission decal, the car was a base 270hp with manual trans.

It could be twisted though and not know it without doing these checks?

I spoke with a local body man with 42 yrs. exp. hopefully if we can work something out he might be a good resource.

[Daniel D.]

Re: 1971 frame repairs does this look okay?

Front to back brace and side rails removed

[Monte M.]

Re: 1971 frame repairs does this look okay?

What you are doing so far looks really good. Are you planning on using a sleeve on the inside of the frame rails? Doing just a but weld will have minimal strength compared to using a sleeve.

In using a sleeve it is strong before you even tack weld things together.

In case you are interested, what I mean is you have a piece of frame rail that fits just inside the real frame rail. You can drill four or five holes in the rail on each side of your cut. This way you can tack the holes like a spot weld and make sure it is exactly where you want it before even touching your real weld.

Plus, instead of just butt welding your two pieces of frame together, there is a piece of metal behind your weld when you weld it making it much, much stronger.

If you have an interest in hearing more about what I am talking about, just let me know. I have plenty of pictures as well.

I learned this on my Jeep frame. I kept ripping it apart. I put the gusset/sleeve in it and that was it. I never broke again.

It was great. Instead of my frame coming apart again, I just ripped the lower four link arm off the frame.

Now you know why i am back to building Corvettes again.

Best of luck and let me know if there is anything I can do.

Monte

[Timothy B.]

Re: 1971 frame repairs does this look okay?

Daniel,

I have never done this before but I think you can do it. Do you think it may be smart to tack weld everything and take it to a frame shop and have it checked before finishing the welding.

Looking at the dimensions in my 1963 shop manual, you can surely cross check everything so it should be very close if not as good as what you started with. Look at the 3/4" hole on each side as a reference point to the datum line.

I would love to see a picture of the jig that was used to assemble these pieces together at A O Smith.

[Daniel D.]

Re: 1971 frame repairs does this look okay?

What you are doing so far looks really good. Are you planning on using a sleeve on the inside of the frame rails? Doing just a but weld will have minimal strength compared to using a sleeve.

In using a sleeve it is strong before you even tack weld things together.

In case you are interested, what I mean is you have a piece of frame rail that fits just inside the real frame rail. You can drill four or five holes in the rail on each side of your cut. This way you can tack the holes like a spot weld and make sure it is exactly where you want it before even touching your real weld.

Plus, instead of just butt welding your two pieces of frame together, there is a piece of metal behind your weld when you weld it making it much, much stronger.

If you have an interest in hearing more about what I am talking about, just let me know. I have plenty of pictures as well.

I learned this on my Jeep frame. I kept ripping it apart. I put the gusset/sleeve in it and that was it. I never broke again.

It was great. Instead of my frame coming apart again, I just ripped the lower four link arm off the frame.

Now you know why i am back to building Corvettes again.

Best of luck and let me know if there is anything I can do.

Monte

Here are some pics of my progress, the repair sections I purchased from Paragon came with sleeves also a bulkhead piece that is located at the rear of the section just before the # 3 cross member, this is some tedious work and is gonna require a lot of patience. Fitting, Marking, Removing, Grinding, Fitting, Marking, Removing, Grinding, Repeat

I'd like to see those pics when you get a chance, this would help very much. Thanks Dan