Fresh 1967 Convertible Restoration need electrical help

[Lee B.]

Re: Fresh 1967 Convertible Restoration need electrical help

Bill, can you clarify/expand what you just said? I am not sure I follow what you mean.
Thanks
Lee

[Lee B.]

Re: Fresh 1967 Convertible Restoration need electrical help

One other item of note, when I took the distributor cap off, the condenser is mounted on the points. I had never seen that before, do I need to separate them or leave alone?
Thanks
Lee

[William C.]

Re: Fresh 1967 Convertible Restoration need electrical help

OK, the wiring has two methods to power the coil. One is a feed from the ballast resistor that provides the primary power to the distributor/coil when the engine is running. There is a second feed that is activated only during cranking that bypasses the ballast resistor and supplies full system voltage to the coil during cranking to insure a good spark at startup. A coil "too hot to touch" would lead me to investigate the coil (has it lost it's cooling oil?) or is it getting fed too high a voltage due to a wiring issue?

[Edward J.]

Re: Fresh 1967 Convertible Restoration need electrical help

Lee, later when I get home I am going to do a little test on the temp. of the coil to see what the temp. is on my 63, getting hot is normal, But I really never measured the temp. after it run for a few minutes.

[Lee B.]

Re: Fresh 1967 Convertible Restoration need electrical help

Understood. Thanks for the clarification.

[Gene M.]

Re: Fresh 1967 Convertible Restoration need electrical help

Going along with what Clupp said. You can disconnect the wire from the solenoid that overrides the ballast resistor. If you have a good battery and good starter that draws normal the car will still start fine. Run it like that to see if the coil over heats and cuts out. My guess it will not. Another thing change the coil to distributor plug wire to a stranded copper Packard 440 wire. Those repro plug wires are junk. A couple breaks in the other wires will not halt the car but that one will if bad enough.

[Scott G.]

Re: Fresh 1967 Convertible Restoration need electrical help

It sounds like you have a uni-set. This is a package which includes the points and condenser. It's fine as long as they put a good HP set in it. The standard set has springs which are to weak for high RPM. Here is a photo of a uni-set I found on line: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Garage...set,51786.html

One other item of note, when I took the distributor cap off, the condenser is mounted on the points. I had never seen that before, do I need to separate them or leave alone?
Thanks
Lee

[Edward J.]

Re: Fresh 1967 Convertible Restoration need electrical help

Lee, Took my 63 for a 10 minute ride this afternoon and check the temp, 130 degrees was as hot as the coil got on this short trip. I am sure that the temp would be much higher on a longer trip when you factor in the engine compartment temp and hot soak conditions. I am curious as to why such your coil was so hot to the touch.

[Lee B.]

Re: Fresh 1967 Convertible Restoration need electrical help

Okay, started diagnosing tonight. Put a 7mm coil to distributor wire on it to start with. I idled the car in the driveway until it got hot with the voltage gauge hooked to the ballast resister. It held 12+ volts even after it started sputtering. So it looks like the problem is somewhere between the register and the plugs. 2 new items that I discovered, some friends came over to look at the car and I took then as cap off and there was a lot of pressure in the tank. I would expect vacuum, but it was under pressure. Is that normal, I have what says is a vented cap. Item number 2 is I have some heat marks under the center of the carb on the intake manifold. Lawrence suggested that the exhaust heat riser might not be opening when the car gets hot making the carb overheat. The temp gauge read 180 on the 4 corners of the intake manifold, but close to 220 in the center when the heat marks are. Depending on what y'all say about the gas cap, I will try replacing coil, points and condenser, and wire the heat riser open and see what happens. Let me know what you think.
Thanks
Lee

[Lee B.]

Re: Fresh 1967 Convertible Restoration need electrical help

Okay, started diagnosing tonight. Put a 7mm coil to distributor wire on it to start with. I idled the car in the driveway until it got hot with the voltage gauge hooked to the ballast resister. It held 12+ volts even after it started sputtering. So it looks like the problem is somewhere between the register and the plugs. 2 new items that I discovered, some friends came over to look at the car and I took then as cap off and there was a lot of pressure in the tank. I would expect vacuum, but it was under pressure. Is that normal, I have what says is a vented cap. Item number 2 is I have some heat marks under the center of the carb on the intake manifold. Lawrence suggested that the exhaust heat riser might not be opening when the car gets hot making the carb overheat. The temp gauge read 180 on the 4 corners of the intake manifold, but close to 220 in the center where the heat marks are. Depending on what y'all say about the gas cap, I will try replacing coil, points and condenser, and wire the heat riser open and see what happens. Let me know what you think.
Thanks
Lee
PS: The temp on the coil was 180 degrees

[Gene M.]

Re: Fresh 1967 Convertible Restoration need electrical help

Lee,
Easy to tell if heat riser issue. When hot the weight should be down. The weight will only be up when cold as the spring has not expanded yet and will hold it up. This heat if excessive with a stuck heat riser will cause the carb to get excessively hot which could vaporize fuel. But you can check for that too doing what Clupp said.

Your voltage between coil and ballast resistor should be around 8 volts not 12. Yes 12 volts into ballast resistor but s/b only 8 coming out.

Gas tank s/b neutral as no pressure because of vented cap. Cap is suspect.

[John H.]

Re: Fresh 1967 Convertible Restoration need electrical help

Item number 2 is I have some heat marks under the center of the carb on the intake manifold. Lawrence suggested that the exhaust heat riser might not be opening when the car gets hot making the carb overheat. The temp gauge read 180 on the 4 corners of the intake manifold, but close to 220 in the center where the heat marks are.
Thanks
Lee
PS: The temp on the coil was 180 degrees

Lee -

Have you plugged the two holes that feed hot exhaust gases to the "hot-slot" across the front of the carburetor pad? That's a MAJOR source of excess heat that can cause fuel to boil in the carb, and it can also damage/warp/fry the carburetor baseplate. On 67's, it's only an issue on the 327/300 and the 427/390. With E10's lower boiling point, you want to do everything you can to reduce the heat input to the carburetor.


HotSlotPlugs4.jpgHotSlotPipePlug.jpg

[Lee B.]

Re: Fresh 1967 Convertible Restoration need electrical help

[QUOTE=John Hinckley (29964);715745]Lee -

Have you plugged the two holes that feed hot exhaust gases to the "hot-slot" across the front of the carburetor pad? That's a MAJOR source of excess heat that can cause fuel to boil in the carb, and it can also damage/warp/fry the carburetor baseplate. On 67's, it's only an issue on the 327/300 and the 427/390. With E10's lower boiling point, you want to do everything you can to reduce the heat input to the carburetor.


John,
I asked the guy who put the carb on and he said he used the SS shim plate from Zip as shown here. Is this good enough or should I plug the holes? Also, are the holes tapped or do I need to do that?
Thanks
Lee

[John H.]

Re: Fresh 1967 Convertible Restoration need electrical help

[QUOTE=Lee Bradley (53434);715850]

Lee -

Have you plugged the two holes that feed hot exhaust gases to the "hot-slot" across the front of the carburetor pad? That's a MAJOR source of excess heat that can cause fuel to boil in the carb, and it can also damage/warp/fry the carburetor baseplate. On 67's, it's only an issue on the 327/300 and the 427/390. With E10's lower boiling point, you want to do everything you can to reduce the heat input to the carburetor.


John,
I asked the guy who put the carb on and he said he used the SS shim plate from Zip as shown here. Is this good enough or should I plug the holes? Also, are the holes tapped or do I need to do that?
Thanks
Lee

Lee -

That stainless baffle was used on every 327/300 (and 427/390) to protect the aluminum Holley baseplate from direct impingement of the hot exhaust gases passing through the "slot", but it still allowed an enormous amount of heat to pass into the carburetor castings.

The cast holes in the intake can vary slightly - some will accept 7/16" stamped steel plugs, and some have larger passages and need to be tapped 1/4" NPT for allen-head 1/4" NPT plugs. This is an absolutely essential modification, especially with low boiling point E10 fuel.

[Francis F.]

Re: Fresh 1967 Convertible Restoration need electrical help

John Hinckley, Can this operation (the plugs )be performed while the manifold is on the engine,,??
Francis