1967 radiator support - original vs. reproduction

[R N.]

Hi Everyone,

I've been debating the pros/cons of purchasing a new reproduction radiator supports vs. sourcing an original for my '67 non-air conditioned SB slated for a future restoration.

I have searched the archives here and lots of "older" talk about figment issues, but unfortunately for me, there is not so much newer info, so I'm reaching out for your thoughts.....

I called Clint today at Coffman's and he told me there are a few people making them, but with their supports no installation issues with just one caveat. He said if the car has been hit or modified "some" fitting issues may be required, but if the car is a no-hit everything should fit w/o issues.

Finding an un-restored support is another story as so many have be poorly repaired/restored and who knows what is lurking under the fresh black paint.

My '67 is a Canadian car with a rusted frame and it was hit hard in the right front at some point in its life, so I have a new frame (Vette Prod. of Mich.) and a front clip (Sermersheim's) already purchased, so I'm already expecting some massaging when everything starts to go together.

Looking for your comments.

[Joe R.]

Re: 1967 radiator support - original vs. reproduction

Kurt,

I have similar questions. Surely someone here has some info. Bueller? Bueller? Bueller?

Joe

[Joe R.]

Re: 1967 radiator support - original vs. reproduction

Kurt,

Lets look at it this way. You have a reproduction frame and a reproduction front end. Are you sure they will fit a reproduction radiator support or do you want a wrecked and repaired radiator support???
You are not going to end up with a Bow Tie Corvette so why are you worried??? Buy the reproduction radiator support or find an NOS or perfect radiator support to have something to start with as the front end will have to be shimmed to fit anyway.
My advise would be as follows and this is assuming the firewall back is original. Strip every piece of paint/primer off that little jewel and repair the bumps and bruises first. Set the body on the new frame starting with a new body mount kit and put two shims on each point. Check the number 4 mounts and make sure they don't need additional shimming. Mount the doors. Shim the rear # 3 and #4 until the rear of the doors fit perfectly. Install the radiator support and then the new front end. Shim at the bottom of the radiator support until the front end fits perfectly to the doors on both sides. You will have to shim the doors to make this happen and may have to trim the new front end in the rear. Maybe a 1/16" to 1/8". If you need more t******* start looking for something else wrong.
When it is fitting perfectly get you a couple of tubes of 3M 3015 and glue the sucker down. Make sure you are perfect as you will never get that sucker off again without a hack saw!
A piece of cake that should not take more than 20 hours of intensive labor. Chapter 2 to follow if you need the help or just call me sometime when you have an hour or two.

JR

[R N.]

Re: 1967 radiator support - original vs. reproduction

Kurt,

Lets look at it this way. You have a reproduction frame and a reproduction front end. Are you sure they will fit a reproduction radiator support or do you want a wrecked and repaired radiator support???
You are not going to end up with a Bow Tie Corvette so why are you worried??? Buy the reproduction radiator support or find an NOS or perfect radiator support to have something to start with as the front end will have to be shimmed to fit anyway.
My advise would be as follows and this is assuming the firewall back is original. Strip every piece of paint/primer off that little jewel and repair the bumps and bruises first. Set the body on the new frame starting with a new body mount kit and put two shims on each point. Check the number 4 mounts and make sure they don't need additional shimming. Mount the doors. Shim the rear # 3 and #4 until the rear of the doors fit perfectly. Install the radiator support and then the new front end. Shim at the bottom of the radiator support until the front end fits perfectly to the doors on both sides. You will have to shim the doors to make this happen and may have to trim the new front end in the rear. Maybe a 1/16" to 1/8". If you need more t******* start looking for something else wrong.
When it is fitting perfectly get you a couple of tubes of 3M 3015 and glue the sucker down. Make sure you are perfect as you will never get that sucker off again without a hack saw!
A piece of cake that should not take more than 20 hours of intensive labor. Chapter 2 to follow if you need the help or just call me sometime when you have an hour or two.

JR

THANK you JR. Sometimes you can't see the trees for the forest and your comments/advise is spot on. BTW firewall back is all original and un-hit.