I have all the parts in hand to do this (bezel, emblem and backing plate) and I plan to send them to Richard Fortier to do the work. The small problem is that Richard has never taken a close up picture of the rivet head he machines to replicate the original rivet. Has anyone who reads this ever had him do it and would they be willing to take a close up of the back side with the six rivet heads. I'd just be more comfortable seeing what a finished unit looks like. He tells me he's never done a ton of these so I might be searching for a fairly rare item. Thanks
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Re: C2 Fuel Door Restoration
I finally received a picture of the door repair Richard does. Based on this I'm going to do it. The rivets are steel drive rivets and subject to rust but it is the best I know of. -
Re: C2 Fuel Door Restoration
Larry,
They are not rivets at all. The lid has aluminum/potmetal projections that are peened down and end up with an appearance of peened over rivets.
I would suggest a different process of fabrication if you want to pass flight judging with it.Comment
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Re: C2 Fuel Door Restoration
I thought I responded a while ago but guess I didn't post it so here we go again. I know in detail how the "originals" were made but I'm not aware of anyone who or any process that can put an original part back the way you describe. You can buy a Trim Parts unit which does exactly this if you want to live with the other things that are not correct and SHOULD not pass judging.
The issues are:
1. For late 63, 64 and all or part of 65 the plate should be flat...Trim Parts has a bump in the middle (which is OK for 66 and 67 and maybe some 65).
2. The Trim Parts casting number is different than factory originals and is missing an additional number 30181-H. I don't know what this extra number means but it is there.
3. Trim Parts has CMD on it which is not on the factory parts.
4. Factory backplates have two holes to accept locating bumps from the latch bracket which is then spot welded on. The locating bumps are clearly visible on factory parts; Trim Parts does not have these.
I don't get my car judged so I don't really care but I like the idea of having a correct factory bezel and back plate. I have no choice but to
use a Trim Parts emblem.Comment
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Re: C2 Fuel Door Restoration
Alan,
I looked and here are my comments:
1. The first set of pics must me a Trim Parts or other repro because of the dimple in the plate, assuming the back pic is of the unit with a 64 emblem.
2. For the second set of pics the back plate appears to have been re-attached with rivets pressed into holes with the heads cut off. The rivets crimps are near perfect rolls. This looks good but will likely not stand up to repeated opening and closing. You may have notices on original doors the two peened posts next to the latch are often pulled through due to the pressure of opening the door against spring pressure on the latch slide.
3. I disagree that original posts did not have a hole. They all evidence a central cavity and appear to have had an attempt to clinch them like a rivet. They are not just a peened stud. In fact, if you remove a back plate with a drill this central cavity will locate your drill bit.
The Fortier method is not an exact repro but, since he used drive rivets, it should stand up to repeated opening and closing and the bouncing impact on rough roads. It can probably only be done once per original bezel but this will last my life span. The good thing is that you use a factory bezel and back plate. The rivets are the only issue unless the black white issue come into play.Comment
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Re: C2 Fuel Door Restoration
That discussion was concerned with what an original emblem looked like so first set of pictures, I assumed, were reproductions. My two pictures were of original emblems (63 & 64) The so called rivets in fact are how they should look, some are commonly seen off centered a little due to production. Joe Randolf has tons of pictures - as for me I'm unable to get to some at present. Note Gene has described the process!
And agree with him that Richards are not perfect (good), but a judge would need to know exactly how they originally looked and even then doubt even a point off on original would be hard to justify.Comment
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Re: C2 Fuel Door Restoration
Larry, not at home to determine the point number for the gas door, its 5 on originality. The line item is for the door, bezel, emblem. So lets say 2,2,1 as a point spread.
So we have 2 points for the door that consists of 1. latch assy (latch, screw, spring, weld, housing then 2. plate, 3 rivets for a total of 7 things that can go wrong.
Now one could miss 20% for configuration, 20% (2 points) = 0.4 and with 7 possible parts a rivet would be 0.05 points, so very minor if anyone see it.Comment
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Re: C2 Fuel Door Restoration
Alan,
You have to apply the CDCIF method to the point allocation. The cast lid should be the peened portion of the casting that secures the assembly. Obvious the protrusions are missing from the cast part. That is configuration. The separate drive pins is incorrect assembly/sequence. Steel pins is material/finish. Plate being flat/dimpled is configuration. The missing number 30181-H. is date/marking. Correct spot welds locators is configuration and/or assembly. Also the filister head screw and thread length is configuration. Plastic latch coloration is material/finish. So looking at all these plus the items all ready mentioned it is possible to over look a lot of "small" incorrect features as well as it could be to have a long list to make a couple point deduct. A restored original assembly SHOULD score better than a repop...........!Comment
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Re: C2 Fuel Door Restoration
Richard has shipped my re-riveted assembly. I don't have it yet but he sent pics. I've posted a partial to describe how the final products looks. He did not replate my parts per my instructions. I'm pretty happy with how this looks.Comment
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