C1 Voltage Regulators New and Originals rebuilt - Your thoughts?

[Dan B.]

I have been reading over all the old threads regarding the C-1 voltage regulators and wanted to pose some current questions for help and discussion. Again this is ONLY as it pertains to the early Generator driven cars and specifically to 58-62 which I am familiar with, so here goes: 1. If you are using an after market regulator (FLAPS) how long do they last for you? 2. If you have an original rebuilt by the "go to guy" have you had any problems with voltage fluctuations? I've had what I consider poor results with both of the above. The last "new" one worked very well for about 3 years and then failed and that was the best one I had in a while (in terms of miles hardly enough to wear the thing out). I had an original Delco (date coded) which I sent to "the go to guy" because while it "worked" in specs, I was not happy with the electrical spikes (lights brighten then dim at idle without touching the throttle) and it's still the same after I got it back and not what I consider good for driving. Generator is good , I rebuilt and tested it and all the wiring is good (new complete car harnesses), so in other words the rest of the electricals are tip top. VR is the weak link. My guess is there are many out there with a similar problem. What's your solution, am I missing something here ?? Cheers! Dan

[Domenic T.]

Re: C1 Voltage Regulators New and Originals rebuilt - Your thoughts?

Dan,
That's seems to be the normal and abnormal way they can work. I do my own then assemble / seal them with nitrogen. All that after adjusting with a running engine.
My airplanes have generators and 2 of them use the same regulators we have on C1 cars. They are 12 V and the only difference is the end plates.
I have over 34 hundred hours on one that I have had since 1976. I removed the cover at just over 2800 hours (working fine) and serviced it by polishing the points, inspection, adjustment with engine running and finally assembling and sealing with nitrogen gas to eliminate oxygen that can cause oxidation while the points are sparking.
I think the variables are pulley size and RPM. Those with lesser RPM can use a smaller pulley and have better output at Idle as where the HP cars that have higher RPM need a larger pulley to keep from destroying the windings, com, and cooling fan when at high RPM.
I once used a 6 volt generator in a 12 volt system on my tug and it worked at a few hundred RPM's more using a 12V regulator.
The nitrogen is a good touch but you can do your own as long as it is not burnt, then that would mean you have other problems.

DOM

[Dan B.]

Re: C1 Voltage Regulators New and Originals rebuilt - Your thoughts?

Dom,
Thanks fort the reply. What do you use to polish the points? 2 contacts are hard and one soft and the shop manual makes a distinction. I had some success adjusting the Delco regulator on the car but the current was not stable and the lights would flicker even though the voltage read in specs. I suspect the points need more attention to correct this, right? The aftermarket ones are not adjustable so I just toss them when they quit. Thankfully the planes I fly all have alternators in them now. )) Dan

[Domenic T.]

Re: C1 Voltage Regulators New and Originals rebuilt - Your thoughts?

Dan,
Typed till I was blind and the computer or this site wiped it out twice. If you do not get my reply, call me (760) 831-2095.
I will try again!!

Dom

[Domenic T.]

Re: C1 Voltage Regulators New and Originals rebuilt - Your thoughts?

OK,
Here go's again, I finish with 1000 grit. It seems like you have the hardest part done,(adjusting the voltage). I would guess that you are right, the points need some work. I use paper to remove the sandpaper dust which will not let the point contacts, contact, (dirty). I put the paper between the points and clean the dust off.
In my old cars the alt's work great but I owned a flight school that never had a generator failure, but had alternator failures, crazy.
The 34 hundred plus regulator ,( the original 1966 ) is on a Cessna 172. The beauty of a generator is that if the batt is dead you can prop the plane and get the generator to charge. The alt, needs about 9.5 volts to energize the field to start the charging cycle. My aircraft generator uses auto brushes, bearings and is not only inexpensive to fix but reliable.
My Mooney, Z- 37, and L29 also have generators.
I do have the same problems, especially radio at idle with the generators, but with all the solid state equipment, the amp load has been reduced and the gen does just fine.

DOM

[Dan B.]

Re: C1 Voltage Regulators New and Originals rebuilt - Your thoughts?

Thanks for that info Dom (Fellow Mooney driver as well). I can't even imagine relying on that old stuff in IFR when they don't last in a weekend fair weather pampered auto. One thing that still puzzles me is why the Standard Ignition regulators (aftermarket and US made b/t/w) don't last very long. New points, all set up..........was hoping for some feedback from anyone else that may use one for purely driving on their experiences with longevity. I had read that some folks with other car brands that use the Delco VR have added a diode to the VR to reduce point oxidation which seems to be the culprit here. Anyone heard of that?

[Patrick S.]

Re: C1 Voltage Regulators New and Originals rebuilt - Your thoughts?

I had my original 62 converted to solid state when it quit (and after many hours messing with it trying to fix it). Looks great and original and works like it should.

[Dan B.]

Re: C1 Voltage Regulators New and Originals rebuilt - Your thoughts?

The gentleman that did those has passed and to my knowledge no one else is currently doing it. Had 2 done by him. The first worked well for a few years, and the second I had as a back up was defective right out of the box when I tried it no charge.

[Dan P.]

Re: C1 Voltage Regulators New and Originals rebuilt - Your thoughts?

Cleaning the points and adjusting is the ONLY thing that is done when rebuilding a voltage regulator . I had a voltage regulator done by the go to guy and after a couple of years quit working when it got hot.After sending it to several people NOBODY could fix it . Had it converted to solid state . Yes the guy who was doing passed.

[Dan B.]

Re: C1 Voltage Regulators New and Originals rebuilt - Your thoughts?

Cleaning the points and adjusting is the ONLY thing that is done when rebuilding a voltage regulator . I had a voltage regulator done by the go to guy and after a couple of years quit working when it got hot.After sending it to several people NOBODY could fix it . Had it converted to solid state . Yes the guy who was doing passed.

Thanks for sharing your experience. Knowing what I know now, I would advise anyone using a solid state conversion in a C-1 to periodically put a volt meter on the battery and check the VR output. When mine failed it was an OVERCHARGE that I was lucky to catch while diagnosing a gauge problem which turned out to be caused by the overcharging voltage regulator (17 volts).

[Dan B.]

Re: C1 Voltage Regulators New and Originals rebuilt - Your thoughts?

What adds to the confusion is there are many passenger car generators being used in Corvettes some of which are not 30 Amp. Once the tag is gone, you don't really know what amperage you have. GM had a service replacement p/n back in the day 1119261 which according to the book covers 30 and 35 amp generators yet they still make several different versions of regulators for 30 and 35 amp models individually and some that cover both. The whole thing gets sketchy after all these years. I have also been told there is no difference in the parts and numbers (which I have a hard time believing). Can anyone shed some light on this?