C2 Fuse Block Bypass

[Bill B.]

Newbie owner of a '65 Roadster. Lost power and found that that i had a pushed in/broken pin on the fuse block connector (12v red wire leading to the bulkhead connector opposite the fuse block). When I remover the connector, I found that the pin on the fuse block side was completely pushed in and broken.

A potential fix is to replace the fuse block and integral harness - cost for parts alone is $1K, plus a lot of work. Many I've spoken with suggest I bypass the connector altogether. Unfortunately, I have little/no experience splicing automotive electrical systems. I can rewire an entire kitchen, but as far as correct splicing technique and knowing where to connect - I am clueless.

Has anyone performed this specific procedure? Can you help me with specific directions/advice? pics???

Note also that I am new to NCRS, new to the forum, and this is my first post. Apologies in advance for any breach of etiquette.

Thanks,
Bill

[Bill M.]

Re: C2 Fuse Block Bypass

Bill:

That's what I did to my hot rod '65 back in the 70s.

I spliced a new red wire onto the original engine compartment red wire using a crimp connector.
I ran the new wire through the hole in the firewall used by the speedo cable.
And I attached the wire to the bottom terminal of the headlight motor circuit breaker (yellow connector):



Still working fine.

Bill

[Bill B.]

Re: C2 Fuse Block Bypass

Bill - thanks for the pic - very helpful. So here's my plan (appreciate your thoughts on accuracy).

Get a 12-ga copper stranded wire - approx. 3 ft long.
Put a crimp connector on one side (as shown in the photo) and connect to the headlight motor circuit breaker as shown in the photo.
Thread the wire through the firewall.
Cut the existing wire several inches from the connector.
Cut the stub end of the wire - leading into the connector - as close to the connector as possible. Wrap with electrical tape.
Splice the new wire to the old wire. Not sure of exactly sure how to do the splice - probably can lay one wire end on top of the other (inside of a crimp sleeve) and crimp together. I don't have any crimping tools - will need to buy something inexpensive (first choice) or use a good pair of pliers (second choice).
Wrap the splice in electrical tape.
Sound correct???
Thanks,
Bill

[Bill M.]

Re: C2 Fuse Block Bypass

Bill:

The tool is a stripper/crimper. You need one of these to securely crimp the terminals to the wire.
The yellow ring end is what you would use at the breaker.
The blue is a splice connector. You put a wire in each end and crimp to splice the wires.
(I am out of 12 gage connectors, which would be yellow. The blue is for 14 gage.)

Bill

[Joe R.]

Re: C2 Fuse Block Bypass

Bill - thanks for the pic - very helpful. So here's my plan (appreciate your thoughts on accuracy).

Get a 12-ga copper stranded wire - approx. 3 ft long.
Put a crimp connector on one side (as shown in the photo) and connect to the headlight motor circuit breaker as shown in the photo.
Thread the wire through the firewall.
Cut the existing wire several inches from the connector.
Cut the stub end of the wire - leading into the connector - as close to the connector as possible. Wrap with electrical tape.
Splice the new wire to the old wire. Not sure of exactly sure how to do the splice - probably can lay one wire end on top of the other (inside of a crimp sleeve) and crimp together. I don't have any crimping tools - will need to buy something inexpensive (first choice) or use a good pair of pliers (second choice).
Wrap the splice in electrical tape.
Sound correct???
Thanks,
Bill

Bill,

Here's a good thread on crimping:

https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthre...495#post709495

I would recommend getting a racheting crimper. I would not want to play around with loose / bad connections leaving me stranded or worse causing a fire. Just my humble opinion.

Joe

[Paul Y.]

Re: C2 Fuse Block Bypass

Bill:The tool is a stripper/crimper. You need one of these to securely crimp the terminals to the wire.The yellow ring end is what you would use at the breaker.The blue is a splice connector. You put a wire in each end and crimp to splice the wires.(I am out of 12 gage connectors, which would be yellow. The blue is for 14 gage.)Bill

My suggestion is that if you can wire a home why don't you use soldier and shrink tube and do it right that way you wontget moisture in it and may be able to prevent corrosion and not have to buy a cheap crimping tool.

[Bill B.]

Re: C2 Fuse Block Bypass

Bill, Paul, Joe

Thanks for the suggestions and additional pics. Very, very much appreciated. I also did a little web surfing to get educated on crimping - I agree, a rachet-type crimper is what I need - same principle as the one I used for crimping pex tubing when I ran radiant in my kitchen. Yes, I can wire a kitchen, and I also sweat pipe - but I'm better with larger scale stuff. I think crimping is the way to go for this one. When I'm done I will wrap it tight with tape - hopefully will keep out most of the moisture and prevent a future problem.

The only remaining question I have... what to do with the stub end of wire that will remain coming out of the connector? I'm thinking when I am done this will have power, as it may be back fed from the connection on the headlight motor circuit breaker. I haven't looked closely at the connector to see if I can easily remove the piece of remaining wire, or if I will have to put some type of dead-end connector on it to seal it off. What do you think?

Thanks again,
Bill

[Bill M.]

Re: C2 Fuse Block Bypass

Bill, Paul, Joe

The only remaining question I have... what to do with the stub end of wire that will remain coming out of the connector? I'm thinking when I am done this will have power, as it may be back fed from the connection on the headlight motor circuit breaker. I haven't looked closely at the connector to see if I can easily remove the piece of remaining wire, or if I will have to put some type of dead-end connector on it to seal it off. What do you think?

Thanks again,
Bill

If it were a good connection, you wouldn't be replacing the wire. I would just cut the wire off at the connector. You are only dealing with 12 volts.

[Joe R.]

Re: C2 Fuse Block Bypass

Bill, Paul, Joe

Thanks for the suggestions and additional pics. Very, very much appreciated. I also did a little web surfing to get educated on crimping - I agree, a rachet-type crimper is what I need - same principle as the one I used for crimping pex tubing when I ran radiant in my kitchen. Yes, I can wire a kitchen, and I also sweat pipe - but I'm better with larger scale stuff. I think crimping is the way to go for this one. When I'm done I will wrap it tight with tape - hopefully will keep out most of the moisture and prevent a future problem.

The only remaining question I have... what to do with the stub end of wire that will remain coming out of the connector? I'm thinking when I am done this will have power, as it may be back fed from the connection on the headlight motor circuit breaker. I haven't looked closely at the connector to see if I can easily remove the piece of remaining wire, or if I will have to put some type of dead-end connector on it to seal it off. What do you think?

Thanks again,
Bill

Bill,

I would suggest that heat shrink is your friend. I would use it over the one crimped connection to seal it from moisture. It can also be used on the cut wire to prevent shorts. You can get a Raychem variety pack and a heat gun from various electronics supply houses (Mouser, Digi-Key, Allied, Newark, etc.).

Joe

[Bill B.]

Re: C2 Fuse Block Bypass

Jst a note to say thanks to everyone for their help, suggestions, and especially pics. Cut and spliced the wire as suggested above. Whole process took about 15 minutes, and I borrowed a crimping tool from a friend, so the total cost was about $3-$4. Decided on crimping with a tight electrical tape wrap, rather than soldering the connection or using a shrink sleeve. I know this was the easy way out, but it should be okay for now. I still need to address the non-working horn (maybe next weekend), and depending upon where that leads I may go back qnd do something more permanent.

Thanks again to everyone

B

[Randy S.]

Re: C2 Fuse Block Bypass

Bill

I took a different approach. If you study the wiring diagram you will see the #12 red wire runs from the horn relay bus bar thru the connector then to a factory splice in the dash harness. One lead from the splice runs to the headlight circuit breaker. Note that this portion of the harness is unfused. My firewall connector wasn't damaged but was unrealiable for continuity. I have an AC car with a 61A alternator so I suspect the #12 red wire carries more current than a non AC car.
I ran a parallel #12 red wire from the horn relay to the headlight circuit breaker. Ring terminals at both ends, no splice, etc and no cuts to existing harness. Plus I now have 2 #12 wires bringing power into the car, less load on each wire.
I concealed the second wire in the harness till I got near the firewall then ran it thru a hole in the firewall to the headlight circuit breaker. Almost "stealth" but reliable. My car is not judged.

For your next project you might do a search for thermal link to add some electrical protection to your harness. John Hinckley has an excellent article on this.

Randy

[Bill M.]

Re: C2 Fuse Block Bypass

Jst a note to say thanks to everyone for their help, suggestions, and especially pics. Cut and spliced the wire as suggested above. Whole process took about 15 minutes, and I borrowed a crimping tool from a friend, so the total cost was about $3-$4. Decided on crimping with a tight electrical tape wrap, rather than soldering the connection or using a shrink sleeve. I know this was the easy way out, but it should be okay for now. I still need to address the non-working horn (maybe next weekend), and depending upon where that leads I may go back qnd do something more permanent.

Thanks again to everyone

B

You're welcome, Bill. Glad you're back on the road.

Bill