Engine missing - can a rotor cause this?

[Gene M.]

Re: Engine missing - can a rotor cause this?

Kurt,
I might suggest it is still last years gas in the tank? Repop wires are noted for poor quality with breaks in the core carbon impregnation. Also look at point gap/dwell........oxidation. The new rotor is the least likely issue.

[R N.]

Re: Engine missing - can a rotor cause this?

Kurt,
I might suggest it is still last years gas in the tank? Repop wires are noted for poor quality with breaks in the core carbon impregnation. Also look at point gap/dwell........oxidation. The new rotor is the least likely issue.

Gene,

fresh gas, repop wire set, it's a TI system (L72) so no points. With my old rotor installed it runs fine, it's with the extended tip rotor I having the missing with the engine running.

[Gene M.]

Re: Engine missing - can a rotor cause this?

Gene,

fresh gas, repop wire set, it's a TI system (L72) so no points. With my old rotor installed it runs fine, it's with the extended tip rotor I having the missing with the engine running.

That's strange, I was under the impression the original rotors even with TI were the longer style. Check out the rotor with an ohm meter. Could be some kind of defect causing real high resistance between the contacting surfaces.

[John D.]

Re: Engine missing - can a rotor cause this?

We use the regular (short tipped) rotor on all FI distributor restorations and have no issues or complaints. JD

[George J.]

Re: Engine missing - can a rotor cause this?

I installed one of the K & B rotors last year and feel that there was a difference in how the car ran. It seemed to start easier and run better. Only slightly, but I don't think I'm imagining it. The part seemed to be very high quality, as well.

George

[R N.]

Re: Engine missing - can a rotor cause this?

I called Ken today and explained my problem - He is suspecting the Lectric brand spark plug wires, but the funny thing is they (The Lectric wires) work fine with the NAPA style rotor while the K & B one causes an engine miss. Fast forward, Ken was very helpful and said he would replace the rotor and send me a new one and assured me he would help and do what ever it takes to get me sorted. Can't ask for more than that.

BTW, they sell BB wires, but you need to use the shielding/braiding off your Lectric wires and also use the ends from the distributor end to put on his wires. The 7mm wires he supplies come only with the spark plug ends attached.

[R N.]

Re: Engine missing - can a rotor cause this?

To put closure to this thread, I replaced the rotor with another K&B extended tip rotor and I have not issues at all. Must of been a bad part. Thanks for everyone's input and to K & B for replacing the rotor.

[William C.]

Re: Engine missing - can a rotor cause this?

Actually the rotor tip change was emissions related due to some lunkhead who thought that widening the gap between the rotor tip and the distributor post would build higher system voltage in provide better emissions performance. The aftermarket followed and for those of us who favored high compression high rpm engines scrounging the parts shelved for the OLD style long-tip rotor became a regular pastime. HEI pretty much fixed the problems in OEM applications (like using a sledgehammer) but the aftermarket never caught on to the fact they were selling JUNK with the second design. I'm not familiar with the K-B rotor, but it sounds like a reproduction of the 1960's Delco unit which was the "Goodguy" piece for high-perf.

[Ken A.]

Re: Engine missing - can a rotor cause this?

Actually the rotor tip change was emissions related due to some lunkhead who thought that widening the gap between the rotor tip and the distributor post would build higher system voltage in provide better emissions performance. The aftermarket followed and for those of us who favored high compression high rpm engines scrounging the parts shelved for the OLD style long-tip rotor became a regular pastime. HEI pretty much fixed the problems in OEM applications (like using a sledgehammer) but the aftermarket never caught on to the fact they were selling JUNK with the second design. I'm not familiar with the K-B rotor, but it sounds like a reproduction of the 1960's Delco unit which was the "Goodguy" piece for high-perf.

Bill, It is.

[Gene M.]

Re: Engine missing - can a rotor cause this?

"lunkhead" huh, must be the same as knuckle head or bird brain. I'm guessing you think it was a stupid idea. Which it is because every bit of resistance to the path weakens the spark.

In fact, for years I've custom fit my rotors by repositioning the rotor tip for a .015"-.020" gap with the distributor cap posts. Also use cap with copper/brass posts in place of aluminum. If you do this re-inspect gap with any cap change.

[Jack J.]

Re: Engine missing - can a rotor cause this?

"lunkhead" huh, must be the same as knuckle head or bird brain. I'm guessing you think it was a stupid idea. Which it is because every bit of resistance to the path weakens the spark.

In fact, for years I've custom fit my rotors by repositioning the rotor tip for a .015"-.020" gap with the distributor cap posts. Also use cap with copper/brass posts in place of aluminum. If you do this re-inspect gap with any cap change.

I could'nt help but wonder how you custom fit. Please elaborate.

[Gene M.]

Re: Engine missing - can a rotor cause this?

Jack,
I have a sun machine so measuring for a set up to position the rotor is easy once I established where it needs to be to clear the posts on the distributor cap. Using clay will tell you the rotor to distributor contacts gap. I remove the rivet securing the brass to the stainless spring steel prong and into the plastic rotor cap. Some rotors are easier to modify. Those type the brass prong just needs to be reversed as they are symmetrical except for the position of the hole for the rivet. Other versions require redrilling a new hole to gain prong extension beyond the stock position. Some times the brass requires a bit of filing to get the reduced gap. In place of a rivet I elect to tap the plastic for a #6-32 and secure with a stainless button head screw. One needs to insure the screw is not exposed to the bottom side of the rotor as it would arc to ground. File work is performed on the brass tip to achieve the .015" to .020" gap.

Understand a good quality rotor is required to start with. Cheap, thin, flimsy, china crap will not yield good results.