Rear end front cushion replacement

[Dan H.]

Hi gang, it's been a long time since I replaced the two cushions on the front of the rear end. Can you do it by swinging the front bracket down and can you remove the bolt without removing the drive shaft? Looks really close to drive shaft to get the bolt out for the upper cushion. Think the last time I did this the whole rear end was out making it easy. Thanks,
Dan

[Edward J.]

Re: Rear end front cushion replacement

Dan, The snubber bushings can be replaced with everything in placed, make sure the flange on the diff is vertical to ease removal of the bolt and upper bushing. its a tight fit.

[Joe R.]

Re: Rear end front cushion replacement

Dan,
Don't forget that the 63 and 64 Dana rear end has two short bolts in the front and can be removed. That allows the bracket to fall down making replacement of the rubber bushings a snap! Eatons have two long bolts thru the rear end making the task more of a task!

JR

[Dan H.]

Re: Rear end front cushion replacement

thanks Ed and JR, mine is original and has the short bolts, should help to swing down. have some NOS cushions so it should be fine.

[Duke W.]

Re: Rear end front cushion replacement

You'll need to use a moderate sized pry bar to get the carrier bracket reinstalled. The spring force creates a moment that rotates the front of the carrier up, so a little leverage on the carrier using the bracket as a fulcrum is necessary to get the bracket holes lined up with the carrier threads with the new cushions installed.

That's the only trick. Other than that it's pretty simple. I always wondered why GM replaced those two short front bolts with the through bolt that doesn't have enough clearance to remove. I guess that later configuration requires a bigger pry bar.

Duke

[Richard M.]

Re: Rear end front cushion replacement

Well, I'll give you my '63 experience.......It was a snap alright. When I snapped one of the short bolts off of the carrier. This was after considerable heating of the fastener with cycles of penetrant, heating/cooling, rapping with hammer, etc etc.

A 1 hour job became a all day job. I was able to ratchet strap and pry bar the carrier down enough to drill out the broken bolt, clean the threads, and chase the threads, but a nightmare. I also upgraded the bracket with hardened washers welded to it for more reliability later. Replaced the snubber setup and my "driveline Clunk" was gone.

I highly recommend that you use extreme caution to remove the small bolts, NF thread as I recall. I wish CRC Freeze-Off was around then. I'd use that with some hammer hitting the head of the bolt if you find ANY resistance to get those short bolts out.

Rich

[Timothy B.]

Re: Rear end front cushion replacement

Those short bolts get hammered in the threads from the torque of the rear, that's probably why they are replaced by the long bolt.

[Bruce B.]

Re: Rear end front cushion replacement

I did some problem chasing on my 65 coupe (vin around 550) and found that it has the 2 separate bolts in the front of the snubber mount.
Couldn't figure why it had the 2 bolts, now I know it must be a Dana.
When I went to remove the 2 bolts the left one backed out easily but the right had a load on it and even supporting the bracket did not remove the load.
I changed the snubber rubber without dropping the bracket with my wife's help, her small hands worked great.

[Joe R.]

Re: Rear end front cushion replacement

Well, I'll give you my '63 experience.......It was a snap alright. When I snapped one of the short bolts off of the carrier. This was after considerable heating of the fastener with cycles of penetrant, heating/cooling, rapping with hammer, etc etc.

A 1 hour job became a all day job. I was able to ratchet strap and pry bar the carrier down enough to drill out the broken bolt, clean the threads, and chase the threads, but a nightmare. I also upgraded the bracket with hardened washers welded to it for more reliability later. Replaced the snubber setup and my "driveline Clunk" was gone.

I highly recommend that you use extreme caution to remove the small bolts, NF thread as I recall. I wish CRC Freeze-Off was around then. I'd use that with some hammer hitting the head of the bolt if you find ANY resistance to get those short bolts out.

Rich

Rich,
I am shocked that an NCRS member would destroy any part of a 1963 Corvette by adding welded on washers. It is no longer a top-flight Corvette!!!! Improving on a design is shocking. We must vote on this foul habit you seem to have adopted!You must be a member of the NCCC and the NSRA!
JR

PS. By the way, did those washers have a little "m" on them?

[Jimmy B.]

Re: Rear end front cushion replacement

Ok, I got a problem HOUSTON. On my 65 my rear end the 2nd bolt (the one with the castle nut) is out about 4 inches. I loosened up the snubber nut, took the nut & lw off the other long bolt but I can't get the bolt with the castle nut to go through the hole, it is up to the flange of the snubber mount bracket, i can feel the snout of the bolt but it won't go the final inch or two, what do i do now??? Do I jack up the rear end, use a pry bar on the snubber tongue or get 5 gallons of gas and watch the fire? The car is currently off the ground on jack stands since I just had to reinstall my rebuilt pg transmission that didn't work. I am stuck at this point. If I put the rear tires on the ground will the rear end rotate a liittle bit and let that bolt go on thru? I need help!!!

Thanks for all help.

Jimmy B.

[Wayne M.]

Re: Rear end front cushion replacement

TSB on the '63 to early '65 problem; the front two threaded bolts loosened, allowing bracket holes to oval, allowing movement. Solution: weld reinforcement washers, replace bolt with safety wire anchored to bracket.

Added pic of "735" diff ('63 to early '65) to which this applies

c a

z

[Timothy B.]

Re: Rear end front cushion replacement

Ok, I got a problem HOUSTON. On my 65 my rear end the 2nd bolt (the one with the castle nut) is out about 4 inches. I loosened up the snubber nut, took the nut & lw off the other long bolt but I can't get the bolt with the castle nut to go through the hole, it is up to the flange of the snubber mount bracket, i can feel the snout of the bolt but it won't go the final inch or two, what do i do now??? Do I jack up the rear end, use a pry bar on the snubber tongue or get 5 gallons of gas and watch the fire? The car is currently off the ground on jack stands since I just had to reinstall my rebuilt pg transmission that didn't work. I am stuck at this point. If I put the rear tires on the ground will the rear end rotate a liittle bit and let that bolt go on thru? I need help!!!

Thanks for all help.


Jimmy B.

Jimmy, If you put the weight of the car on the ground that should allow the bolt to be removed. You are fighting the spring with jack stands.

[Jimmy B.]

Re: Rear end front cushion replacement

Hopefully the alignment shop can help me out. Thanks for your help.

[Paul Y.]

Re: Rear end front cushion replacement

Jimmy, pull the carpet up and drill a hole in the fiberglas with a hole saw. OK maybe not.