1050104, DP90, Blitz Black, Yada Yada Yada

[Bill Becker]

This weekend I reached the point of no return in the restoration of my 67. After spending months searching for body panels, and getting the body back in one piece, some buddies and I pulled the body off. It was actually kind of fun!

After researching the archives I see a lot of discussion regarding frame paint. I would like to combine a "purist" appearance with reasonable wearability. Let me run by you what my plans are thus far in regards to painting the frame. After bringing the frame down to white metal, 1.) starting off with a self etching primer 2.) Then spraying with DP90 3.) then a final coat of 1050104.

Also saw some discussion saying that DP90 isn't as durable as it was before they had to remove... (whatever it was they had to remove) True or False?.

I recently saw a frame on a 67 that was supposedly painted with J.D. Blitz Black. I personally thought it was too flat.

In the Quanta catalog, they list a "GM Reconditioning Paint, and an Asphalt Based Frame and Chassis Paint. Which is 1050104?

Thanks, Bill Becker

[Joe L.]

Re: 1050104, DP90, Blitz Black, Yada Yada Yada

Bill-----

I'll offer this:

The "GM Reconditioning Paint" sold by the gallon in the Quanta catalog is the GM #1050104 product. Whether any formulation change for this product has reduced its durability, I could not tell you.

The "asphaltic coating" sold by Quanta is the same stuff as GM originally used to coat frames. It was NEVER sold by GM over-the-counter in GM dealer's parts departments, though. Quanta purchases it in bulk (the only way that the manufacturer supplies it) and repackages it in consumer quantities. This coating is not very durable, at all. You can use the other products which you mentioned, then over-coat with the asphaltic coating for an original looking appearance. As long as you don't drive the car, the coating ought to last awhile. If you drive the car, I would use one of the other products which you mentioned and let it go at that.

[Dale Pearman]

Re: 1050104, DP90, Blitz Black, Yada Yada Yada

DP 90 is a self etching epoxy catalyzed "flattish" primer that should be used against the bare frame metal. The new formulation is quite durable and this is still one of the best "against the steel" paints available. The next coat is where the problem lies. A purist would "do it as the factory did" with asphaltic based paint similar to AO Smith's. This paint is NOT durable. A more practical finish would be any medium gloss enamel thinned to appear as original a AO Smith paint. GM Reconditioning paint would be suitable.

The John Deere Blitz Black should then be used on selected sections of the completed chassis (right side up) to simulate the chassis black-out process just before body drop.

Dale.

[Bill Becker]

Thanks guys, now let me get this straight...

Ok, so I skip the self etching primer and go directly to DP90, then cover that with GM reconditioning paint (1050104), straight out of the can or does it have to be thinned? Then use Blitz Black for black out.

Sorry for all the questions, but I only want to do this once. The car will be judged. Just want to make sure the finish will pass.

Bill

[John M.]

Re: Thanks guys, now let me get this straight...

Bill, Dp90 is a self-etching primer and will take almost any topcoat, the key to the top coat is the gloss level and not necessarily the material. I personally like PPG DCC urethane flattened to a proper look, the paint is almost bulletproof. John

[Dale Pearman]

Re: Thanks guys, now let me get this straight...

The DP-90 goes on the bare steel frame. It is the self etching primer. Be sure to protect your breathing when shooting this stuff as well as the wonderful PPG paint that John recommends. Hardeners will kill you! Charcoal filters are the least that is required. If you can smell the paint while you're shooting it then stop and get an effective paint mask.

Dale.

[Kenneth S.]

Re: Thanks guys, now let me get this straight...

Bill, I just used DP90 period. The PPG rep. told me there was no problem if it was not top coated. It's tough as iron, the color flattened out nicely and it looks great.

[Bill Becker]

DP90 with no top coat?

Will it Pass judging? At the national level?

Bill Becker

[John M.]

Re: DP90 with no top coat?

Bill, my thoughts are that it is probably too flat to look original, but a lot of guys use nothing else. What Dale said about breathing the stuff is right on, I use a full face supplied air respirator for safety and my air source comes from another building where it can't pick up the fumes. This may sound elementary but a good friend was spraying with a supplied air respirator that was fed from the a compressor in the same shop he was spraying in - NASTY STUFF!

[Bill Becker]

How "semi" is semi gloss?

Joe, Dale, John, and Ken, first of all thanks for all your replies. Your help thus far has been invaluable. I'm having a friend who has a collision business here locally paint the frame. All he asks is that I tell him exactly what to use. I'll pass on the caveats about the DP90.

My confusion lies in that how do you know how much gloss should be in the topcoat? I can't afford to have the wrong color, and don't really want to use the asphalt paint unless I have to. Heck I'd love to use your PPG CC if I could get the paint code(assuming it's passed judging). Think your supplier would ship some to me?

Thanks again and again, Bill Becker