c2 - 1967 327/300 oil pressure (follow up)

[Brian Monticello]

Over the weekend I was able to get a reading on my oil pressure to check what I suspected was a bad gauge - it was showing a max of 15 pounds. The test gauge read a max of 40 so I am pretty relaxed right now... BUT.....

I wasn't relaxed when trying to get off the oil pressure fitting on the back of the block. I removed the PCV tube and the ignition shield mount and unscrewed and carefully moved the oil purssure tube. I was not able to get the fitting off.

Cant put a socket on it - it almost butted up against the intake manifold. Can't put a wrench on it - as you try to turn it the wrench hits inte intake and slides off. I was starting to destroy it so I stopped and put everything back together. I'm small enough to get under the dash and attached a pressure gauge at that point.

Anyone know how to get that fitting off?

[Joe L.]

Re: c2 - 1967 327/300 oil pressure (follow up)

Brian-----

These fittings can sometimes be a "bear", as you've discovered. For some reason, some of the intake manifolds are configured in such a way that there is no clearance between the fitting and the manifold. Then, you wind up with the problem which you have. Other than removing the intake manifold, I don't know of a solution to this. Perhaps some of the board members that work on Chevrolet engines more regularly than I do will be able to provide help.

In any event, the next time the intake manifold is off the car, I think that I'd slightly grind the area around the fitting to provide clearance for a socket.

[Donald O.]

Re: c2 - 1967 327/300 oil pressure (follow up)

Brian,
Can you get a "crows foot" on it? I'v used it with success. My $.02
Don

[Mike McKown]

Re: c2 - 1967 327/300 oil pressure (follow up)

Brian:

Get a flare nut wrench (that's what I call it) and put a 90 degree bend on it right behind the hex end so that the handle sticks straight up and put the appropriate open end size on it to get leverage. A flare wrench only captures five of the six sides of the hex and should allow clearance to the manifold. You may have to grind some on the flare wrench.

Otherwise, and some may disagree, loosen all the intake bolts maybe a turn, turn and a half and see if you can scoot your manifold forward in the bolt holes on the manifold for clearance. This will work well if you have teflon coated gaskets. Felpro blue for example. Re-tighten manifold after the fitting repair and check for leaks with carb cleaner.

I almost forgot to mention, if you loosen the manifold, drain the anti-freeze down so it doesn't seep into the lifter valley.

Mike

[Brian Monticello]

THANKS! *NM*