balljoints

[Mike Baker]

I've been delaying putting the front suspension back in my 68. I've been told that the upper balljoints can last forever. As they don't feel loose I was not originally going to change them, but I'm having second thoughts. Is what I was told correct? I have two concerns:

1. I had to pound on them pretty good to separate them from the spindle. Am I right to be concerned that I might have done some damage that may appear a few miles down the road? I really don't want to take this apart again.

2. The boots are thrashed. They were torn before I started and the pickle fork did not help. I does not look like they can be replaced although I have seen the Polyurethane boots advertised buy VBP and Ecklers. Are these supposed to replace torn originals or??? It does not look like the originals can be removed.

Thanks

Mike

[Jim T.]

Re: balljoints

My original owner 68 has about 94K on it now and still has all the original ball joints. The uppers are know to last longer. I believe in good maint and attribute good maint to helping the ball joints last longer. The last time my car was aligned, the maint tech checked the ball joints.
I believe that you can buy the poly replacement boots at your local parts store. I have seen the poly boots for tie rods in my parts store.

[Jack H.]

Re: balljoints

You've been told the right thing. 'In general', upper balljoints outlive lowers by a wide margin. BUT, this doesn't mean they last forever!

I left the original uppers in my '71 during frame off and drove for 10K miles or so. Then, I went back and replaced them. WOW! What a handling/performance difference....

Test 'em with a 'calibrated' hand. In the frame, disconnected with the mounting stud free, they should be so stiff it's virtually impossible to move them off center by hand. If you can wiggle/move with relative ease, you're probably smart to replace 'em....

You've got two choices on replacement. Use the factory authorized method; drill out original rivets, remove, replace and use nut/bolt sets to complete the installation. Expect minor judging deduction for the difference in Installation (bolted vs. riveted). Seek those who have the tooling to install using rivets as factory original and avoid the concours deduction. Here, you'll have to check around your local chapter for those who have the 'tooling' to rebuild an A-arm with rivets--you're not going to find many doing this in the free market...

[Joe L.]

Re: balljoints

Mike-----

The seals (boots) on the PRODUCTION and SERVICE GM ball joints were not replaceable. You may be able to find an aftermarket seal that will fit, but you will first have to remove the original seal and the steel band which retains it. That will destroy most of the unique original configuration of the GM ball joint. So, being that your seals are gone, I'd say that your best bet is to replace the ball joints. NOS would be best, but aftermarket would be better than what you will have after seal replacement of your originals.

[Duke W.]

Re: balljoints

If the grease boots are torn, the only prudent course of action is to replace the ball joins. Once the boot tears they won't be able to hold grease or keep dirt out.

Duke

[Mike Baker]

Re: balljoints

Thanks everyone. You've made the decision to replace them easier.