I would like to remove the wiring harness connector on my 1967 Corvette to clean the terminals on the engine side of the fuse box. How difficult is it to remove the locking tangs? Since this is a 35 year old car "I'm concerned" I don't want to break anything. What is the best way to clean the terminals? Also, what is the best way to clean the terminals on the inside fuse box?
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Re: Engine Wiring Harness Connector
This is probably something you want to do when it's warm (plastic or nylon probably being less likely to beak when it's warm than when it's cold). Be really careful...a previous owner broke one of mine off and every now and then the car stalls when the connector loosens a bit. -
Re: Engine Wiring Harness Connector
This is probably something you want to do when it's warm (plastic or nylon probably being less likely to beak when it's warm than when it's cold). Be really careful...a previous owner broke one of mine off and every now and then the car stalls when the connector loosens a bit.Comment
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Re: Engine Wiring Harness Connector
As basic as this... How do you pull the harness tang from the fuse box? Does it wiggle, snap in or what? I don't want to create a future project.Comment
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Re: Engine Wiring Harness Connector
As basic as this... How do you pull the harness tang from the fuse box? Does it wiggle, snap in or what? I don't want to create a future project.Comment
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Re: Engine Wiring Harness Connector
There are two spade-type plastic (or nylon, I'm not sure which) lugs which go through slots on either side of the connector. The lugs have 'barbs' on them to lock the connector in place (that's where I have a problem...only one side locks in place and it can 'wiggle' loose with vibration). To remove the connector, you would need to push in on these lugs to get them through the slots on the connector and release it. Installation is easy: just push the connector on until you feel/hear the lugs 'snap' into place. Good luck, and be careful!
grantComment
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Re: Engine Wiring Harness Connector
There are two spade-type plastic (or nylon, I'm not sure which) lugs which go through slots on either side of the connector. The lugs have 'barbs' on them to lock the connector in place (that's where I have a problem...only one side locks in place and it can 'wiggle' loose with vibration). To remove the connector, you would need to push in on these lugs to get them through the slots on the connector and release it. Installation is easy: just push the connector on until you feel/hear the lugs 'snap' into place. Good luck, and be careful!
grantComment
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Re: Engine Wiring Harness Connector
Ralph, this is an easy job and you will probably reap rewards for doing it. As a side note, my 66 was acting up electrically and I finally decided to check the engine side of the two connectors. Both had some nasty corrosion that was easily removed using Naval Jelly. USE CAUTION HERE since this is acid. I started with Naval Jelly on one connector for about 10 seconds and then flooded the connector with water. I kept increasing the time that I left the acid on until I had clean terminals. Once they were corrosion free I air dried them with my compressor and reassembled them using dielectric grease on the terminals. No more problems after that.
GaryComment
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Re: Engine Wiring Harness Connector
Ralph, this is an easy job and you will probably reap rewards for doing it. As a side note, my 66 was acting up electrically and I finally decided to check the engine side of the two connectors. Both had some nasty corrosion that was easily removed using Naval Jelly. USE CAUTION HERE since this is acid. I started with Naval Jelly on one connector for about 10 seconds and then flooded the connector with water. I kept increasing the time that I left the acid on until I had clean terminals. Once they were corrosion free I air dried them with my compressor and reassembled them using dielectric grease on the terminals. No more problems after that.
GaryComment
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Re: Engine Wiring Harness Connector
I was about to attempt to clean the wire harness connectors to the engine side of the fuse box but the connectors appear to have been painted with undercoating and are very STIFF. Not a lot a of paint, but some. Any suggestions on how to remove the connectors without breaking ANYTHING.
This all started because my ammeter is jumping wildly when the car is running. I cleaned the connections at the alternator, horn relay, ammmeter, battery, and the starter will be tonight. I have found that places where bubba has been. To Check the charging system, I checked the votage at the battery with and without the car running. 12.5V and 14.5V. I disconnected the battery when the car was running to verify if the car was running on battery power and it kept running so I guess they charging system is OK. I just can't seem to find why the ammeter is jumping around.Comment
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Re: Engine Wiring Harness Connector
I was about to attempt to clean the wire harness connectors to the engine side of the fuse box but the connectors appear to have been painted with undercoating and are very STIFF. Not a lot a of paint, but some. Any suggestions on how to remove the connectors without breaking ANYTHING.
This all started because my ammeter is jumping wildly when the car is running. I cleaned the connections at the alternator, horn relay, ammmeter, battery, and the starter will be tonight. I have found that places where bubba has been. To Check the charging system, I checked the votage at the battery with and without the car running. 12.5V and 14.5V. I disconnected the battery when the car was running to verify if the car was running on battery power and it kept running so I guess they charging system is OK. I just can't seem to find why the ammeter is jumping around.Comment
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Re: Engine Wiring Harness Connector
Ralph,
If I were you, I'd try to remove as much of the undercoating as possible; at least that portion which might make it difficult to pull the connector off of the terminals and difficult to release the spade-type plastic lugs which hold the connector in place. Then, as I suggested in my earlier post, try and do this either with the connector warm from engine heat or warm it up somewhat with a hair dryer etc, since plastic seems to be a little less brittle (and therefore less likely to snap) when it's warm. CAREFULLY release the spade lugs while pulling on the connector. I'd agree with another poster's suggestion to reassemble with dielectric grease for future corrosion protection. Good luck!
grantComment
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Re: Engine Wiring Harness Connector
Ralph,
If I were you, I'd try to remove as much of the undercoating as possible; at least that portion which might make it difficult to pull the connector off of the terminals and difficult to release the spade-type plastic lugs which hold the connector in place. Then, as I suggested in my earlier post, try and do this either with the connector warm from engine heat or warm it up somewhat with a hair dryer etc, since plastic seems to be a little less brittle (and therefore less likely to snap) when it's warm. CAREFULLY release the spade lugs while pulling on the connector. I'd agree with another poster's suggestion to reassemble with dielectric grease for future corrosion protection. Good luck!
grantComment
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