Color My Wheel (DC)

[Bill Becker]

I'm getting ready to blast and paint my 67 DC wheels. Does anyone know a close alternative to Argent Silver? Paragon just raised their price to 28.00 a can! I'll spend it if I have to, but surely there is something out there that will suffice. For a car built early February, am I correct in assuming the insides and backs are gloss black? Also, need to know what type of valve stem to use. And weights? - At the nationals last year I overheard someone say the new ones have different markings.

Thank You! Bill Becker

[Joe L.]

Re: Color My Wheel (DC)

Bill----

Check with Quanta Products at www.quantaproducts.com. Their Argent Silver paint is excellent and, the last time I checked, it wasn't selling for $28.00 per can. The inside and back of your wheels were semi-gloss black. Quanta also sells a specially formulated paint for this application.

Part numbers for the wheel weights have changed over the years, and that probably means that configuration has changed, too. However, wheel weight markings could vary even with the original part numbers, depending on when the weights were produced. That's because GM usually only changes a part number when the ENGINEERING SPECIFICATIONS for a part changes. Different manufacturers, with different markings and even other non-specification differences, may manufacture and supply GM with the same part numbered item.

[Jack H.]

Re: Color My Wheel (DC)

There are many paints close to the Argent Silver of the '67 era but if you don't pony up for the resto rates, you'll probably take a minor deduct on the hue. Argent Silver then had a slight tint of green in the blend. Later cars ('71 for sure & up) used a slightly different formulation that is nearly pure silver/aluminum and off-the-shelf silver wheel spray from your local auto parts shelf matches nicely.

Yes, wheels were semi-gloss black from KH, then spritzed with Argent Silver from the front side only. Originals are thought to have been hung by their valve stem holes and many exhibit runs in the silver in the direction of hang. Plus, there is often evidence of silver overspray on the backside (through the spokes/vents).

On valve stems, I don't really think it matters other than getting the correct size/length. This should be contained in your judging guide (they're the 'shortie' stems and I can't quote the exact length from memory without looking it up). The cap is important.

All four on the car as well as the spare should match. In that era the 'Dill' cap was used. It has a visible dimple in the top and it could be inverted to release air from the valve with the dimple as an actuator. If you get out your SCM (scanning electron microscope -humor) and look very closely at the circumference of the Dill cap, you can just make out a "Dill Mfg" emboss.

These are hard to find, but not that hard. A visit to your local scrap yard will get you all you need, or visit a major tire retailer (locally Discount Tire uses em today), or you can fork out the big $$$ and pay one of the repro catalog houses for em. Your time, your choice.

On the wheel weights. Nobody's ever done an exhaustive survey of what is correct. We know from AIM data that the wheel weights used on Corvette changed P/N in '64 & up, but this was a GM purchased part and who knows how many different suppliers they had at any given point in time????

We do know from a limited sample of NOS tires still in the spare well of isolated suppliers (squashed circle O, is one known mark). What is generally done is to look for telltale obvious giveaways like wheel weight emboss being dual metric/SAE (gram/ounce) and/or the SAE weight being in decimal vs. fraction (0.5 v.s 1/2). No metric and no decimal emboss is generally considered correct.

Last, your AIM tells you factory folks were instructed to balance only on the rear rim of the wheel (probably for a 'clean' look). Here's where you have to make a decision. If your wheels are originals, I'll bet there isn't a snowball's chance in )(*& that they're still true to factory specs. Few guys do wheel truing anymore, especially on low cost steel wheels.

So, it's mirror time! Do you want a factory concours correct look or do you want a safe/functional driver? About the only way you're going to pull of a balance only on the rear rim job properly is to have the wheels 'trued' before you paint and assemble. You can balance on the back (racers do it) but today's method (takes a pro wheel balancer with patience) is to apply stick-on weights to the inside rear of the wheel which will take an originality deduct....

[Robert P.]

Re: Color My Wheel (DC)

[paste] And weights? - At the nationals last year I overheard someone say the new ones have different markings

Bill, I think what they we referring too is the markings on the weights. Todays are metric, yesteryear were in ounces...

Bob

[Jack Steele]

1955 V8 temperature sensor.

Hi guys,

Can anyone out there give me the part number for the heat sensor and or tell me where I might get one. The threads are fine thread not corse like later models. Also how close does the powerglide shift rod to the transmission get to the neutral safty switch protector baffle. This new set up has the rod rubbing against the baffle.

Best wishes to all and keep up the wave . From an old guy.

Jack Steele, Florida

[James F.]

Re: 1955 V8 temperature sensor.

Jack, I'm not familar with '55 temperature sending units. Here's what I found in my '56 parts book. The part # for the complete unit is 1512756, listed as '53-'55 with tube. Apparently this dash gauge is connected to a sending unit via small copper tube and everything is one unseparatable unit? If this is the case I would check Hemmings for venders who repair these units.

[Gary Bishop]

Re: 1955 V8 temperature sensor.

Jack:

Last Spring The Ontario Chapter had a Tech Session run by Wayne Farner who is the owner of "Classic Clock & Gauge", 434 Appian Way, Chattanooga, Tennessee, 37415, (615) 875-4983 did the presentation.

This is what he said that I have notes on. Temperature Gauges. '53 to '55's are Gas Filled. Be careful or you will damage the tube very easily as they have become very brittle with age. They can be repaired but it is very very expensive.

[JACK STEELE]

Re: 1955 V8 temperature sensor.

Thanks for the info on the sensors guys but the sensor you are talking about is for 6 cylinder models. Im looking for info on 1955 V8 engines which I think are the electrical model driven by a heat sensor which is a varistor. Thanks for the comeback though

Best wishes,

Jack,

[Robert P.]

Re: 1955 V8 temperature sensor.

[paste] I'm looking for info on 1955 V8 engines which I think are the electrical model driven by a heat sensor which is a varistor.

Jack, not true. It has a sensor on the engine side and a wire thats wrapped in an armour and probably gas filled like Gary said. My guess is, its similiar to the one in my '55 Chev Bel Air V-8. If so, it terminates at the heat gauge in the instrument cluster. It was a one year only for the V-8 passenger car. In '56 it changed.

Hope this helps, Bob

[Jack Steele]

Re: 1955 V8 temperature sensor.

Thanks for the comeback BOB PATEN. In your message you stated that the heat sensor is in the engine side??? My heat sensor is on the left rear of the intake manifold. Is the same as yours or different.

Jack steele

[Jack Steele]

Re: 1955 V8 temperature sensor.

Hey BOB PATTON. I feel such a jerk. Spelling your name incorrectly. I am sorry.

Jack Steele

[Robert P.]

Re: 1955 V8 temperature sensor.

[paste] In your message you stated that the heat sensor is in the engine side??? My heat sensor is on the left rear of the intake manifold. Is the same as yours or different?

Hi Jack, its the same, located at the left rear of the intake. As I recall that is the only year (V-8, don't know about the 6 cyl) it was located there. BTW, I've had the car since Jan 26th, l966. It belonged to a little old "lady" in a nearby Remington, VA... Black/Red Bel Air 2drHT, 265CID, 4bbl, 3sp. Go figure.... She's long gone, but the car is still here.

Bob

[Jack Steele]

Re: 1955 V8 temperature sensor.

Gary and Bob,

Thanks guys, I stand corrected. This whole car seems to be a load of inconsistancies

Jack