'63 Clock

[Steve D.]

I have the clock removed from the dash. Two questions; how do you remove the rear part of the case, and how do you remove the bezel ?

The rear part of the case is crimped (in four places) at the seam where it overlaps the edge of the front part. Is there a trick to "un-crimping" ? My first thought was to wedge a screwdriver blade under the crimp and twist. But that would more than likely severely dent the front half of the case.

In regard to the bezel, I checked the archives and found numerous posts about clocks, but did not find anything specifically about removing the bezel. (I found the ZIP website item about instrument clusters, but it is silent on clocks.)

[Donald O.]

Re: '63 Clock

Steve,

Make sure you remove the positive post nut & lockwasher first.

To remove the crimps, take a flatblabe screwdriver and CAREFULLY pry the four crimps back to let the housing come apart. NOTE: GO EASY...IT DOES NOT TAKE THAT MUCH EFFORT TO OPEN THE CRIMPS (I use needle nose pliers to re-crimp back together).

With the crimps opened and the housing apart, GENTLY blow air into the mechanicals of the clock or cleaned in an ultrasonic bath, its amazing how much dirt is in there.

Remove the stem knob, I use one set pliers wrapped in cloth and tape on the knob and another set on the stem.

To remove the lens, there are 6 rivets in the front cover that will need to be drilled or ground off. You should now be able to remove and polish or replace the lens. You mat need to use screws to re-assemble or the closest to corect rivets from a hardware store.

DO NOT LUBRICATE with a WD-40 type lube. Go to a watch/clock repair shop and get some real clock oil.

DO NOT CLEAN the face with solvents or liquids, I've read that a water based paint was used.

I've used a small jewelers file to clean the contacts if not too badly pitted.

If all else fails, send it out for a comp[lete resto/repair from a reputable vendor. My $.02 which work for me to get mine working again. Good luck.

Don

[Donald O.]

Re: '63 Clock

Steve,

Make sure you remove the positive post nut & lockwasher first.

To remove the crimps, take a flatblabe screwdriver and CAREFULLY pry the four crimps back to let the housing come apart. NOTE: GO EASY...IT DOES NOT TAKE THAT MUCH EFFORT TO OPEN THE CRIMPS (I use needle nose pliers to re-crimp back together).

With the crimps opened and the housing apart, GENTLY blow air into the mechanicals of the clock or cleaned in an ultrasonic bath, its amazing how much dirt is in there.

Remove the stem knob, I use one set pliers wrapped in cloth and tape on the knob and another set on the stem.

To remove the lens, there are 6 rivets in the front cover that will need to be drilled or ground off. You should now be able to remove and polish or replace the lens. You mat need to use screws to re-assemble or the closest to corect rivets from a hardware store.

DO NOT LUBRICATE with a WD-40 type lube. Go to a watch/clock repair shop and get some real clock oil.

DO NOT CLEAN the face with solvents or liquids, I've read that a water based paint was used.

I've used a small jewelers file to clean the contacts if not too badly pitted.

If all else fails, send it out for a comp[lete resto/repair from a reputable vendor. My $.02 which work for me to get mine working again. Good luck.

Don

[Donald O.]

Re: '63 Clock PS

Steve,

I forgot to say that I have done this to my 1967 clock, but I think your 1963 should be similar. A 63 expert may say yea or nay for a 63. Sorry for any confusion.

Don

[Donald O.]

Re: '63 Clock PS

Steve,

I forgot to say that I have done this to my 1967 clock, but I think your 1963 should be similar. A 63 expert may say yea or nay for a 63. Sorry for any confusion.

Don

[Jack H.]

Good explanation! *NM*

[Jack H.]

Good explanation! *NM*

[Steve D.]

Re: '63 Clock

Don

Thanks alot for the reply. Very helpful.

I got the crimps un crimped, and the rear half of the case removed. The knob on the set stem is being stubborn, so I'm taking my time with it. Since I haven't gotten the knob off yet, I haven't removed the face and mechanism from the front half, and therefore I haven't seen yet how the lens is fastened. I'm sure it is as you described. I hope to find out tonight.

Does the bezel separate from the front half of the case, or is it an integral part of the case? The bezel appears to be bright(chrome?)on the outer edge and painted silver elsewhere. Did you do any touch up work on yours?

Steve

[Steve D.]

Re: '63 Clock

Don

Thanks alot for the reply. Very helpful.

I got the crimps un crimped, and the rear half of the case removed. The knob on the set stem is being stubborn, so I'm taking my time with it. Since I haven't gotten the knob off yet, I haven't removed the face and mechanism from the front half, and therefore I haven't seen yet how the lens is fastened. I'm sure it is as you described. I hope to find out tonight.

Does the bezel separate from the front half of the case, or is it an integral part of the case? The bezel appears to be bright(chrome?)on the outer edge and painted silver elsewhere. Did you do any touch up work on yours?

Steve

[Donald O.]

Re: '63 Clock

Steve,

Let me re-phrase how/where the lens is held - it is held in a frame, which has six rivets attached to the clock front cover.

On my 67, the front cover is semi-flat black on the inner and outer sides, and bright chrome on the front edge.

Try a DROP of penetrating oil on the knob overnight, it may help.

If your clock isn't working, you can check it by hooking up a battery charger to the clock. Place the positive lead on the threaded stud and the negative lead on the flat metal piece around the stud. MAke sure you DO NOT make contact with both leads at the same time. This may do SERIOUS damage to the clock. See if the electromagnet moves the contacts together to rewind the clock's spring.

CONTACT POINTS they are located at the back, away from the face of the clock movement assembly, next to the screws that hold assembly together. The removal of the 3 screws holding the points in place will allow the electromagnet to be released to examine the points. The 3 screws will only loosen the electomagnet, NOT the entire movement assembly. The points are held in place with a spring, which is located on the opposite end of the points. Use a pair of needle nose pliers and take the end of the spring off the attaching hook. With the spring removed, the points will now come apart. Reassmbly is to reverse what I've just said.

Parts USED to be available from:

Instrument Services Inc.
433 S. Arch Street
Janesville, WI 53545
800-558-2674

I haven't had to dael with them in over 12 years, so I don't know if they are still around.

Don

[Donald O.]

Re: '63 Clock

Steve,

Let me re-phrase how/where the lens is held - it is held in a frame, which has six rivets attached to the clock front cover.

On my 67, the front cover is semi-flat black on the inner and outer sides, and bright chrome on the front edge.

Try a DROP of penetrating oil on the knob overnight, it may help.

If your clock isn't working, you can check it by hooking up a battery charger to the clock. Place the positive lead on the threaded stud and the negative lead on the flat metal piece around the stud. MAke sure you DO NOT make contact with both leads at the same time. This may do SERIOUS damage to the clock. See if the electromagnet moves the contacts together to rewind the clock's spring.

CONTACT POINTS they are located at the back, away from the face of the clock movement assembly, next to the screws that hold assembly together. The removal of the 3 screws holding the points in place will allow the electromagnet to be released to examine the points. The 3 screws will only loosen the electomagnet, NOT the entire movement assembly. The points are held in place with a spring, which is located on the opposite end of the points. Use a pair of needle nose pliers and take the end of the spring off the attaching hook. With the spring removed, the points will now come apart. Reassmbly is to reverse what I've just said.

Parts USED to be available from:

Instrument Services Inc.
433 S. Arch Street
Janesville, WI 53545
800-558-2674

I haven't had to dael with them in over 12 years, so I don't know if they are still around.

Don

[Steve D.]

Re: '63 Clock

Don

I got the knob off and so I now have everything separated. As you described, the lens is attached by 6 pins wth flattened heads. You mentioned drilling or grinding these pins to release the lens. That looks like awfully delicate work, but the replacement of the pins is what really concerns me. You mentioned screws or rivets. Could you tell me how you reattached your lens?

Steve

[Steve D.]

Re: '63 Clock

Don

I got the knob off and so I now have everything separated. As you described, the lens is attached by 6 pins wth flattened heads. You mentioned drilling or grinding these pins to release the lens. That looks like awfully delicate work, but the replacement of the pins is what really concerns me. You mentioned screws or rivets. Could you tell me how you reattached your lens?

Steve

[Donald O.]

Re: '63 Clock

Steve,

I used screws, but I don't remember the size. When I do it again this summer, I am going to find some rivets.

Don

[Donald O.]

Re: '63 Clock

Steve,

I used screws, but I don't remember the size. When I do it again this summer, I am going to find some rivets.

Don