62 coolant leak

[Ed Jennings]

Re: Better description

My 62 fuelie doesn't have one.

[Ed Jennings]

Re: Better description

My 62 fuelie doesn't have one.

[Todd Pollock]

Re: Better description

How many belts are on your car? I assume two but one short one avoiding the extra pulley on mine. Any ideas as to why mine would have this?

[Todd Pollock]

Re: Better description

How many belts are on your car? I assume two but one short one avoiding the extra pulley on mine. Any ideas as to why mine would have this?

[John H.]

Re: Better description

Todd -

Probably a "catalog-inspired" addition, like leather clutch fork boots for C1's, which were also never used in production, but are shown in all the catalogs.

If the leak is ONLY under the hex head of the bolt/stud, you MIGHT be able to stop it with thread sealer if that's where it's coming from (through the threads from the water jacket); however, chances are it's the typical gasket-interface leak common to C1's, as there are four gasket interfaces in that "sandwich". When you pull it down, inspect both sides of the motormount bracket carefully - if you find it pitted, you have two choices - solder or braze and metal-finish those areas so they're smooth and flat, or get a new bracket. Use gasket sealer on both sides of both gaskets on each side, and use temporary studs in the upper holes when you reassemble it so you don't inadvertently "wipe" the sealer off while trying to juggle all the parts to get the bolts in, and use thread sealer on all four bolts.

[John H.]

Re: Better description

Todd -

Probably a "catalog-inspired" addition, like leather clutch fork boots for C1's, which were also never used in production, but are shown in all the catalogs.

If the leak is ONLY under the hex head of the bolt/stud, you MIGHT be able to stop it with thread sealer if that's where it's coming from (through the threads from the water jacket); however, chances are it's the typical gasket-interface leak common to C1's, as there are four gasket interfaces in that "sandwich". When you pull it down, inspect both sides of the motormount bracket carefully - if you find it pitted, you have two choices - solder or braze and metal-finish those areas so they're smooth and flat, or get a new bracket. Use gasket sealer on both sides of both gaskets on each side, and use temporary studs in the upper holes when you reassemble it so you don't inadvertently "wipe" the sealer off while trying to juggle all the parts to get the bolts in, and use thread sealer on all four bolts.

[Ed Jennings]

Re: Better description

If you are not familiar with this process, BE SURE to support the engine from underneath while you do this. You probably already know this, but just to be sure.......

I usually jack the engine up an inch or two just to get better access to everything.

[Ed Jennings]

Re: Better description

If you are not familiar with this process, BE SURE to support the engine from underneath while you do this. You probably already know this, but just to be sure.......

I usually jack the engine up an inch or two just to get better access to everything.

[Mike E.]

Re: Better description

No difference whether 340 or 360-horse. they didn't come with idler pulleys! 100's of them now have them, because vendors sell them and list them for 62's, but they are not correct!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Mike E.]

Re: Better description

No difference whether 340 or 360-horse. they didn't come with idler pulleys! 100's of them now have them, because vendors sell them and list them for 62's, but they are not correct!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Loren L.]

Another Alternative

John's got the right procedure down, but as another alternative, some of the old racers (and today's vintage racers) used two permanent studs (with permatex) in the upper pump bolt slots and then double-nutted them to prevent loosening when the engine torqued and moved. When you reinstall everything, make sure that the front motor mounts are tightened to specs for that same reason.

[Loren L.]

Another Alternative

John's got the right procedure down, but as another alternative, some of the old racers (and today's vintage racers) used two permanent studs (with permatex) in the upper pump bolt slots and then double-nutted them to prevent loosening when the engine torqued and moved. When you reinstall everything, make sure that the front motor mounts are tightened to specs for that same reason.