I just recently installed front brake calipers. Before i bleed the brakes i pumped out the old fluid it the master cylinder and replaced it with new fluid. I always bleed brakes with one person pumping the brake 3 times then holding it to the floor while i open the bleeder valve and the master cylinder cover is on. This time it would not get any fluid out of the bleeder valve or even out of the caliper hose disconnected. So i reconnected the hose to the caliper and tried a mighty vac power bleeder. This would not work either. The only way i got it to work is to take the master cylinder cover off and bleed it. They brakes were pumped slowly so it would not shoot out of the master cylinder. Then it worked. Why did i have to take the master cylinder cover off to do this? I have done it before with it on. p.s this is not my corvette it is my iroc-z. Thanks in advance
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Re: Bleeding New Brake calipers
I recently used the mighty-vac pump, for the first time, to bleed the brakes on my '66 coupe and it worked fine. However, it took me some time to get the hang of it and I had to improvise a litte bit. For example, when attaching the clear tube to the bleeder valve I found that the "L" shaped adapters do not work well as they do not properly seal. What I did, after much trial and error, was to place the clear tubing (without using the "L" shaped adapters) onto the bleeder valve and while pumping the mighty vac with one hand I then firmly held the tubing with the other hand and made sure that the seal was tight Once you finish pumping, let the pump rest in your lap, or hang it somewhere under the vehicle, and then with your free hand slowly open the bleeder valve. At this point some fluid, even though it might at first be a very small amount, should start to flow through the tube. In my case, the master cylinder had gone dry so it took me quite some time to get a steady flow of brake fluid through the tube. Take your time and stick with it and it will work. By the way, I always had the cap on the master cylinder during this procedure and, once you get started, make sure you frequently check the level of fluid in the master cynlinder so it does not go dry. -
Re: Bleeding New Brake calipers
I recently used the mighty-vac pump, for the first time, to bleed the brakes on my '66 coupe and it worked fine. However, it took me some time to get the hang of it and I had to improvise a litte bit. For example, when attaching the clear tube to the bleeder valve I found that the "L" shaped adapters do not work well as they do not properly seal. What I did, after much trial and error, was to place the clear tubing (without using the "L" shaped adapters) onto the bleeder valve and while pumping the mighty vac with one hand I then firmly held the tubing with the other hand and made sure that the seal was tight Once you finish pumping, let the pump rest in your lap, or hang it somewhere under the vehicle, and then with your free hand slowly open the bleeder valve. At this point some fluid, even though it might at first be a very small amount, should start to flow through the tube. In my case, the master cylinder had gone dry so it took me quite some time to get a steady flow of brake fluid through the tube. Take your time and stick with it and it will work. By the way, I always had the cap on the master cylinder during this procedure and, once you get started, make sure you frequently check the level of fluid in the master cynlinder so it does not go dry.Comment
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Re: Bleeding New Brake calipers
Eric,
As you pump the fluid out of the master cylinder, air must be allowed to enter to replace the fluid. If not, a slight vacuum will be created. As you release the pedal to start the next cycle of bleeding, the ports at the bottom of the master cylinder are opened. Because you previously created a slight vacuum in the cylinder, the fluid you have just pumped out comes rushing back in, leaving you with a net gain of zilch.
This of course assumes you have a perfectly sealed gasket without vents.
What's an IROC-Z?Comment
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Re: Bleeding New Brake calipers
Eric,
As you pump the fluid out of the master cylinder, air must be allowed to enter to replace the fluid. If not, a slight vacuum will be created. As you release the pedal to start the next cycle of bleeding, the ports at the bottom of the master cylinder are opened. Because you previously created a slight vacuum in the cylinder, the fluid you have just pumped out comes rushing back in, leaving you with a net gain of zilch.
This of course assumes you have a perfectly sealed gasket without vents.
What's an IROC-Z?Comment
Comment