'58 Chassis blackout

[Steve D.]

I've studied the books, read this Technical Discussion Board faithfully for months and now I'm ready to "Blackout Spray" my 1958 rolling chassis.

Here is what I am going to spray with John Deere Blitz Black: Rear suspension, front suspension, differential, rear axle, parking brake mechanism, gas lines, brake lines, interior sides of brake backing plates, mufflers, exhaust pipes, and propeller shaft. I am going to do this from top and bottom.

Here is what I am NOT going to paint: Engine, Powerglide, Engine to PG ring, and wheels and tires.

Any errors or omissions? Any wise counsel? I can use it all.

Steve

[John H.]

Re: '58 Chassis blackout

Steve -

I'll leave the details to Dale Pearman, who will probably chime in with them, but the chassis blackout paint was very glossy (not semi-flat like the JD Blitz Black, which matches the original engine compartment body blackout paint), and the chassis blackout was sprayed from the top - Dale knows how much (if any) appeared on the bottom surfaces.

[John H.]

Re: '58 Chassis blackout

Steve -

I'll leave the details to Dale Pearman, who will probably chime in with them, but the chassis blackout paint was very glossy (not semi-flat like the JD Blitz Black, which matches the original engine compartment body blackout paint), and the chassis blackout was sprayed from the top - Dale knows how much (if any) appeared on the bottom surfaces.

[Steve Westphal #34441]

Re: '58 Chassis blackout

I only have one suggestion concerning John Deere Blitz Black paint. DON"T use it from the quart!! Use the aerosol cans. I recently started painting the engine compartment on my 56 using a quart of Blitz Black and it was shinier than ultra gloss! There is a possibility that the can was mislabled but when I used the aerosol, I got the correct sheen.

[Steve Westphal #34441]

Re: '58 Chassis blackout

I only have one suggestion concerning John Deere Blitz Black paint. DON"T use it from the quart!! Use the aerosol cans. I recently started painting the engine compartment on my 56 using a quart of Blitz Black and it was shinier than ultra gloss! There is a possibility that the can was mislabled but when I used the aerosol, I got the correct sheen.

[Ted L.]

Re: '58 Chassis blackout

Steve,

Something must have been mislabeled. I used the quart can (TY6415) Blitz Black and I can't tell the difference between that and the aerosol spray cans. I did add about 10% John Deere thinner just to make it easier to spray.

Ted #32350

[Ted L.]

Re: '58 Chassis blackout

Steve,

Something must have been mislabeled. I used the quart can (TY6415) Blitz Black and I can't tell the difference between that and the aerosol spray cans. I did add about 10% John Deere thinner just to make it easier to spray.

Ted #32350

[Mike G.]

Re: '58 Chassis blackout

Steve-

Often with flat or semi-gloss paints, you're not supposed to add thinner or catalysts, even though the can (which usually assumes you want gloss) may say to. That's another possibility.

- Mike

[Mike G.]

Re: '58 Chassis blackout

Steve-

Often with flat or semi-gloss paints, you're not supposed to add thinner or catalysts, even though the can (which usually assumes you want gloss) may say to. That's another possibility.

- Mike

[Dale Pearman]

Do NOT use John Deere Blitz Black

on the chassis. At St. Louis it was blacked out with an asphaltic low quality HIGH GLOSS paint. The chassis was right side up so no upward shooting of the paint was done. EVERYTHING was covered including frame stencil, shim marks and inspection marks. See the photos in Licastro's book, "Birthplace Of Ledends" or Noland Adams' book in the 1962 section. There's a picture of a 62 body drop. Note the chassis finish.

Dale.

[Dale Pearman]

Do NOT use John Deere Blitz Black

on the chassis. At St. Louis it was blacked out with an asphaltic low quality HIGH GLOSS paint. The chassis was right side up so no upward shooting of the paint was done. EVERYTHING was covered including frame stencil, shim marks and inspection marks. See the photos in Licastro's book, "Birthplace Of Ledends" or Noland Adams' book in the 1962 section. There's a picture of a 62 body drop. Note the chassis finish.

Dale.

[Ron R.]

Re: Do NOT use John Deere Blitz Black

Dale,
Do you have a brand of cheap asphalt based high gloss paint that you recommend?
Thanks,
Ron
23246

[Ron R.]

Re: Do NOT use John Deere Blitz Black

Dale,
Do you have a brand of cheap asphalt based high gloss paint that you recommend?
Thanks,
Ron
23246

[Dale Pearman]

Re: Do NOT use John Deere Blitz Black

Eastwood sells a radiator paint in a spray can that is low-grade, thin and high glossy. I THINK it's an acrylic as all their other paints are and that would be good from the longevity point of view.

Commercial radiator shops use a paint that may be asphaltic based. Quanta claims to have the original asphaltic frame paint. This paint will be high gloss for maybe a year and then start to dull. It will disappear within 20 years just as has the original black out paint on 40 year old Corvettes.

Radiator shops use the asphaltic paint because it imparts a high gloss with very little thickness of solids which would impeed radiator efficiency.

Dale.

[Dale Pearman]

Re: Do NOT use John Deere Blitz Black

Eastwood sells a radiator paint in a spray can that is low-grade, thin and high glossy. I THINK it's an acrylic as all their other paints are and that would be good from the longevity point of view.

Commercial radiator shops use a paint that may be asphaltic based. Quanta claims to have the original asphaltic frame paint. This paint will be high gloss for maybe a year and then start to dull. It will disappear within 20 years just as has the original black out paint on 40 year old Corvettes.

Radiator shops use the asphaltic paint because it imparts a high gloss with very little thickness of solids which would impeed radiator efficiency.

Dale.