I'm in the process of replaceing what look like the original end liks and bushings as well as the frame bracket bushings. The color under the bracket bushings appears to be a semi gloos black. Is this the correct color for it? Also, do the new (rubber) end link bushings and or frame bushings require a dab of grease? Thanks. One other thing. The original end link pins are fine thread. The replacements are corse thread.
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Re: Front Sway Bar Question
Bill-----
The "U"-shaped brackets for the front sway bar bushings were originally dip-painted semi-gloss black. Using a little bit of SILICONE grease on the bushings, especially the inner surface which contacts the bar, may ease installation but is not otherwise necessary. The end link grommets require no grease or other lubricant.
You are correct, too, regarding the end link bolts. The originals were of 5/16-24" NF thread. These bolts were zinc plated and were of 5-25/32" long. These bolts are still available from GM under GM #3817575 for a GM list price of $5.02/each. Also, a complete kit which includes the bolts, nuts, retainers, and grommets for both sides is available under GM #14101339 for a current GM list of $12.77/each. Not too many folks know about the latter, though. But, I do. And now you all do.In Appreciation of John Hinckley -
Re: Addendum
Thanks Joe. I should have asked before buying. It amazes me what's still available after all these years. I'd think about cleaning up the old pins but they are just about rusted through.
Also, I just noticed that the new bracket bushings are much larger than the old ones. May 1/4 inch. Although the new brackets and old brackets themselves are exactly the same size. So, the bushing sticks out of the bracket by a quarter inch or so. Something isn't right. I don't think I could compress the new bushing far enough to make the bracket snug up to the frame. Hum! Any ideas?Comment
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Re: Addendum 2
I posed my question poorly regarding the color. I meant to ask what the correct color of the sway bar itself is. Was it just left natural? ThanksComment
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Re: Addendum 2
Bill-----
Some were a natural, as-forged finish and some were dip-painted semi-gloss black or received same as part of a chassis blackout operation. The natural, as-forged finish is very difficult, if not impossible, to duplicate or re-create. And, obtaining a new bar is just about impossible, too, since all have been discontinued for years. So, your best bet might be to assume that yours was originally painted semi-gloss black.
As far as the bushings go, your old ones once were of exactly the same size as your new ones. At least, they were prior to their initial installation on your car. The bushings must be compressed INTO the bracket and AROUND the bar. Otherwise, they and the bar would be non-functional for all practical purposes. This is one reason that I never recommend re-using the bushings once they are removed from the car for any reason. You may need to use longer bracket bolts to "draw down" the brackets and compress the bushings, although the stock length bolts are usually long enough to do the job. If you do need longer bolts, after you have the bushings fully compressed and the brackets seated on the frame horn, you can replace the bolts ONE AT A TIME with the stock length bolts.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Excellent advice. Thanks *NM*
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Joe, are these part #'s also correct for 66
Joe,
Are the part number you listed also correct for 66?
Thanks,
GaryComment
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Re: Joe, are these part #'s also correct for 66
Gary-----
Yes, exactly the same. However, understand that I don't guarantee correct bolt headmarkings. Headmarkings vary both now and originally. "Otherwise" they're correct parts, though.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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