I am replacing the fuel pump on my '64 (L75) and have a couple of questions. First, do I need any sealer on the gaskets or on the threads of the bolts or the fuel lines (locktite?)? Second, can I use the grease I use for the front end to hold the rod in place? Thanks.
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Re: Fuel Pump Installation
No, Yes. Sparingly on the latter. -
Re: Fuel Pump Installation
Mark there is a bolt that is in the front on your block that you can remove and install a longer bolt finger tight that will hold the fuel pump rod in place while you install the fuel pump.
If you bump the engine over untill the rod is retracted it will make it even easier.Comment
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Re: Fuel Pump Installation
Mark
If you don't want to get all greasy take out the 9/16 bolt at the front of the block right beside the pump. It just fills up a threaded hole, does not hold or support anything. Take another 9/16 X 1 1/2, make sure your engine is turned to the point that the pump rod retracts the full distance.Push the pump rod up tighten the bolt just enough to hold the rod. I have used a tad bit of gasket sealer on each gasket and bolt,then get the objects in place and bolt the plate, then the pump. Your fuel line connection to the pump is a compression fitting, but I put a small strip of teflon tape on the threads. Don't forget to remove the larger bolt holding the rod, put some sealer on the orig.bolt then rethread/tighten it. Start it up, check you connection at the pump. Nothing more, your ready to go. Hope this helps, DennisComment
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Re: Fuel Pump Installation
Be real careful about using teflon tape on fuel fittings. Small pieces have a habit of getting where they don't belong. They are designed to be used without sealer.Comment
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Re: Fuel Pump Installation
Ed. Thanks, forgot to mention that.
DennisComment
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Re: Fuel Pump Installation
To avoid "shredded" little pieces of tape, I use TFE (Teflon) pipe joint dope (sparingly) on the fitting threads - not to seal the threads, as the seal takes place at the flare joint, but to reduce friction in the mating threads; takes less torque to get a good mechanical seal at the flare without galling the threads, and makes it easier to disassemble next time. I also use a very small bead of sealant on both sides of both gaskets (plate-to-block and pump-to-plate), and some thread sealant on the fuel pump bolts (their tapped holes go through into the crankcase); can't stand oil leaks. You'll also find that most OEM factory cams are ground so the fuel pump pushrod is on the base circle of the cam eccentric that drives it when the engine is at #1 TDC so you don't have to fight the pump lever pressure while installing it - install the pushrod up against the cam, thread a 3/8"-16 x 1-1/2" bolt in the hole in the front of the block finger-tight to hold the rod in place, and replace with the stock short bolt (with thread sealer on it) after the pump is buttoned up.Comment
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Re: Thread Sealer
Thanks for all of these suggestions. For the bolts, is locktite what I should use? And just a standard gasket sealer? There is an overwhelming choice of these products at the local Pep Boys.Comment
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Re: Thread Sealer
Just use thread sealer,put it on your finger and drag it down the threads on four sides, just fill the threads, you don't want to lock the bolts in.
DennisComment
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Re: Thread Sealer
You don't need Loctite on the bolts - just use thread sealer and torque to specs. As you said, there's an overwhelming number of gasket and thread sealers out there, and most of them work fine. I use ARP thread sealer, as I use a lot of ARP bolts, and their sealer has never failed me; I also prefer Permatex Hi-Temp Ultra-Copper sealant, just out of habit - it works, and I always have some on hand. Anything with a brand name like Permatex on it is a good bet.Comment
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