My 1967 327/300, purchased from a private party, came equipped with a rusted out alarm system that must have been just about as old as the car. Recently, I decided to remove it and cut out all of the wires that that I could find in the engine compartment that seemed to pertain to it, and removed the components (speaker, sensor, key switch located in the fender, etc). I did not go under the dash to find any wires. Now I have major electrical problems. When the ignition switch is turned to aux power, with nothing on and the engine not running either, the ballast resistor for the coil starts to heat up and will reach a smoking temperature in 3 or 4 minutes. More alarming, if the ignition switch is turned to aux power, and the radio is turned on, smoke starts coming out from under the dash area almost immediately. I'm not sure if it's the radio burning up, or wire insullation melting, or what. The car will still start OK and runs fine (except for the fact that the ballast resistor for the coil will heat to a smoking temperature in 3-4 minutes.) Is there anything simple that I can look for? Have a lost a ground? Reversed polarity? Have 2 positivies running together? Thanks, Jim.
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Re: Electrical problems
Hum, sounds like you might have created Frankenstein.... I don't think anyone can give you an algorithm sight unseen. And sight seen says you'll pay somebody's expert labor rates!
However, here's a couple general purpose tips for troubleshooting. Specifics are up to you. Sounds like there's two issues to deal with: (1) engine compartment wiring harness and (2) interior dash harness. So, we take 'em one at a time.
(1) Interior: Remove all fuses from the fuse block and install them one at a time, checking as you go for the 'culprit' circuit branches that cause problem(s). Once you identify problem branch circuit, trace it, find the wiring error and kill it.
Tip: A few interior circuits are unfused/un-switched, like cig lighter, clock. So, start by checking for problem(s) BEFORE you re-introduce ANY fuses.
(2) Engine: Pop the distributor cap and remove points and condensor. Now, your ignition should be open circuited from ballast to ground EXCEPT for any extraneous wiring runs that you want to fault isolate and fix.
Tip: Consider starting with BOTH interior fuses and ignition open circuited so you can fault isolate each area without damage/harm resulting from the other area. -
STOP
Please don't take any chances. Get out the wiring diagram and force yourself to check it against every connection under the hood and dash. Completely remove all the extra wires you find. Make sure all splices are correct and soldered (not twisted together).
As long as you didn't unwrap any harnesses when removing the alarm system or make any connections, there is probably a simple solution. Maybe one of the previous hot wires to the alarm is now touching a ground somewhere.
It's been 30 years since I caused an electrical fire in a Corvette. However, the memory of that harness melting still starts my heart pounding.Comment
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Re: STOP
Jerry's right. You are in danger of frying a harness or a fire. Do yourself and your insurance company a favor and before you do any more snipping or testing install one of those knife blade battery switches so you can cut off 12V power rapidly. And get a couple of good fire extinguishers and keep them near at hand.
MichaelComment
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Thanks
Thanks to all for your advice, which I will pass on to my mechanic. I need some other mechanical work done anyway, so I think the best plan is to just have the car towed to a Corvette specialist. It sounds like it shouldn't be too hard for an expert to fix.Comment
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