Windshield Washer Repair - NCRS Discussion Boards

Windshield Washer Repair

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  • Joel Karam

    Windshield Washer Repair

    I have been trying to get the Windshield washer pump to work. Here is where I am so far: I replaced the valve unit, O-rings, and white plastic parts; the bellows looks ok, not tears, does not seem dried out; when trying the pump I can hear a clicking? sound that stops after a few cycles which I assumed was the internal pump mechanics; I tried to prime the pump etc. No fluid movement at all.

    Any suggestions? and Can the whole unit be removed from the passenger side, leaving the cluster in place?

    Thanks Joel
    67 Roadster
  • Ed Jennings

    #2
    Re: Windshield Washer Repair

    I experienced sort of the same thing. What I found is that it takes a LONG time to get fluid moving through the system, and a LOT of priming was required. Once I had them operating, I allowed the system to sit unused for a couple of years and now everything is going to have to be reprimed.

    Comment

    • Robert C.
      Expired
      • December 1, 1993
      • 1153

      #3
      Re: Windshield Washer Repair

      Joel, Try to prime the system with a mouth full of water blown into each hose until the water is squirting on the windshield, pinch the hose, plug it back in etc. then try the system again. You may have to do this a couple of times until it works.

      Comment

      • michael sciarra

        #4
        Re: Windshield Washer Repair

        Had this problem on my 72. I am sure there are many other causes but in mine: There is a connecting rod (crankto the piston in the pump. ) a silly metal tang is all that holds the piston to the rod. It atachment point is plastic and broke off. The thing would only pump once in a while and then failled entirely although it would 'click' and cycle just fine. NO amount of priming would last.
        Buy a new one if this is the case obviously OR take the thing apart make several groves with a dremmel INSIDE of the piston - not too deep. Get some marine tex and epoxy in the connecting rod pin. NOW, take a dremmal and carfully remove as much material as possible or the crank will not have room to swing AND the internal sping will not be able to relax! ( Because the marine tex is going to take up a bit more space than the original casting. In any event you WILL have to cut back that spring a bit or the whole thing will explode! I think this is what I did about 3 years ago and I can assure you the thing pumps just fine even when left for two or three weeks. Make sure the seal is in good condition or all bets are off.

        Comment

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