can anyone tell me the correct letter stamped on the hex and round head keys for 1968. i believe its C for the hex and D for the round but i'm not positive. The judging manual seems very unclear to me on this matter.
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Re: 68 briggs & stratton key markings C & D???
Geno
On my original 68 Briggs & Stratton keys the hex key has a C and the round head type key has a D. -
Re: 68 briggs & stratton key markings C & D???
Geno:
The key blank identification lettering system started in 1967 in order to allow more lock combinations to deter theft."A" and "B" blanks were used the first year, then "C" and "D" the next, then back to AB, and so on.
Don't forget to stamp the code numbers into the knockouts (if you need to get that authentic). The code for your hex key is stamped into the door lock cylinder.
JoeComment
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Re: 68 briggs & stratton key markings C & D???
Code on lock cylinder body presumes the locks haven't been 'peeled' by prior owner/mechanics, re-coded, Etc. And this works only for door/ignition key as glove box and spare tire lock cylinders were not externally code marked.
But, a good locksmith can read the key cuts (template is shown in the foreword section of your Chassis Service Manual) and with cut sequence in hand (1, 5, 4, 3, 5, 2) plop Briggs & Stratton (now StraTech) microfische plates into the viewer and work backwards to give orignal punch-out code from current cut sequence.Comment
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Re: 68 briggs & stratton key markings C & D???
Jack:
Turns out my '65 had post 1966 ign./door locks installed, which had a stamped code, albeit inappropriate, on the cylinders.
I had to change them since, as you know, the old and new style keys are not interchangeable because the keyways are different and the slots do not line up.
I am fairly certain that the old codes (prior to 1967) contained 4 numerical characters, whereas the later codes are alphanumeric (e.g. 3C26).
JoeComment
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Re: 68 briggs & stratton key markings C & D???
Yes, AND prior to '67 there was NO #5 tumbler/key cut. A good judge can look down at a replacment key/lock cylinder and spot factory non-original if/when the locksmith used the later series #5 tumbler/key cut. A #5 cut on a pre-67 key goes DEEP--almost into the keyway!Comment
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Re: 68 briggs & stratton key markings C & D???
I have what I believe are the original keys for my '68; C on the hex and D on the round. The knockouts are still in the keys and they both have a four character alpha-numeric code. Does this mean I could take these codes to a locksmith and have repro keys made based on these codes? If so, is it hard to find a locksmith that can do this? I had a set made based on the cut of the keys and one got stuck in the passenger side door, half way between locked and unlocked, and I had one heck of a tough time getting the key out. My intention is to preserve the original keys.
Roger
#36313Comment
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Re: 68 briggs & stratton key markings C & D???
Yes, you can obtain original keys through your punch-outs numbers. I did this recently with my ' 72 via Joey Jesser at Jesser Classic Keys. Send me a post and I will give you their info. Also, I have just purchased a one-owner '68 L71 with the original keys and punch outs...!!! Jeff B.Comment
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Re: 68 briggs & stratton key markings C & D???
Roger - As mentioned you can take the code numbers and have the keys made. I'd suggest you either go to your Chev or other GM dealer or to a locksmith who can cut the key with a key cutter rather than use someone who makes the key with one of thosew key grinding machines. Most likely the C & D keys you'll get will be the newer style Briggs & Stratton GM key blanks but they will work fine for spares or everyday use. PeteComment
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Re: Thanks! *NM*
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Re: 68 briggs & stratton key markings C & D???
Jack:
You are right about the 5th tumbler used in post 1966 cylinders. Believe it or not, I successfully converted the post 1966 ignition switch cylinder in my 1965, to a pre 1966 style keyway which now accepts my 1965 style key. The easy part was removing the 5th tumbler, the hard part was realigning the keyway slots to accept the old style key. The hardest part was being able to use the old style lock cover with the release hole in the old position. You may ask, "Why did you go to all this trouble". Reason for this was that after cleanup/lube I found that my original ign. switch was good (has the original 3 lugs to lock on the harness connector) and I couldn't easily find a NOS 1965 cylinder. The replacement cylinders I saw were not compatible with my original switch.
JoeComment
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