Heat sheilds/Splash Guards--Finish/color

[Paul C.]

What should the finish/color be for the heat shields/splash guards that are under the body and help deflect the heat from the engine from getting to your feet. Mine are metal--not plastic (1971). Thanks

[Chuck S.]

Re: Heat sheilds/Splash Guards--Finish/color

The shields that attach to the lower firewall are dark gray phosphate.

[Paul C.]

Re: Heat sheilds/Splash Guards--Finish/color

Thank you. Any suggestions on how to get them back to the original color?

[Dick W.]

Re: Heat sheilds/Splash Guards--Finish/color

I think that Grant Wong, an infrequent poster here, has the chemicals to do this. You might also check with a shooter's supply and look for "parkerizing" materials

[Chuck S.]

Re: Heat sheilds/Splash Guards--Finish/color

The process for doing dark gray aka black phosphate has been well documented in The Corvette Restorer and discussed extensively here. The problem is getting a reaction vessel large enough to completely cover the shields with solution, and a adequate heat source. For these shields, and some other long skinny parts like shifter rods, the crock pot method will not work because of the part size.

If you wanted to hear there is a spray paint equivalent, unfortunately, there is not. There are some paints available that give you an approximation of the phosphate finish if you don't look too close. Where those shields are located, they'll probably only have to pass a "three-foot test", but you have to be personally satisfied with the result. I found it easier to buy repro shields already finished...I don't know if the repro shields are still available; that was years ago and I haven't looked in a long time.

[Greg L.]

Re: Heat sheilds/Splash Guards--Finish/color

Hey Chuck who did you buy those shields from? ...I assume they were properly grey phosphated?

[Chuck S.]

Re: Heat sheilds/Splash Guards--Finish/color

I'm thinking it was Caledonia Corvettes...maybe Dickie or Patrick can tell you if they're still in business, and if so, what name they're now DBA. Yes, the shields I bought were the exact same finish as the originals.

Mine had a few stone dents in them, so replacement was attractive. The shields are a simple die cut sheet metal part without any the complication of rolls, etc. It's an easy repro, virtually impossible to screw up; but...never say never. I could find no deviation from original on the ones I bought.

[Paul C.]

Re: Heat sheilds/Splash Guards--Finish/color

Exactly what does the color black phosphate look like. Can you give me something to compare to. Does it look like ther barrel of a gun, flat black paint, what? Thanks

[Chuck S.]

Re: Heat sheilds/Splash Guards--Finish/color

Paul, it doesn't look like paint, and therein is the rub...it's has a flat matte finish like flat black paint, but it has litte thickness like the film build of paint. Consequently is not slick at all. Gun barrels are like a slick black oxide.

The color is more accurately described as a dark charcoal gray in the case of black phosphate, but you will find several different shades of gray on a C3 Corvette. The lightest shades of gray are obtained with zinc phosphate, and the dark charcoal gray is from manganese phosphate.

I first saw the best way to identify a phosphate finish described in the Third Edition of the 70-72 TIM&JG: When examined in bright sunlight, a phosphate finish will appear to have a million sparkling facets. Judges rarely see this effect on the judging field due to the absence of direct light, but painted parts will generally be found out. One or two instances of paint won't hurt too bad, but if you have a lot of paint where you shouldn't, the deducts will bleed you to death.

[Chuck S.]

OK...Here You Go, Gregster...

Caledonia Classic Cars in Caledonia, Michigan (888-245-5224). You'll have to check to determine their current offerings regards splash shields, and I make no claims regarding present authenticity of finish or material.

My last catalog is from 92, and those shields were $35 each then...Hey, I didn't say good resto was cheap. The old catalog numbers for the 70-73 splash shields are CFS013L/R (left and right).

Their catalog shows the firewall splash shield for 68-69 as being white plastic, so I assume that's what you have or you're talking about another part; the plastic splash shield catalog number is CFS001L/R. The 68-69 underbody heat shielding is catalog number CFS014; same part fits both sides.

They have a new catalog, which may prove useful, for $4.

[Greg L.]

Re: OK...Here You Go, Gregster...

Thanks Chuck, I'll look into it. These underbody plates are about the last ting that I have to restore on my little project...yes it's almost all done except for the actual body paint and then it's reassembly time!

I didn't do these plates while I was phosphating my other parts because like you say, it's a pain to find a pot big enough to submerge them in. I was actually thinking of just painting them because if done right, the chances of detecting paint in that area is pretty slim. My problem is that I'll know that it's wrong.

My firewall shields are plastic but they went to metal later in 69. My underbody shields are metal as I think they all were.

[Greg L.]

Re: OK...Here You Go, Gregster...

Thanks Chuck, I'll look into it. These underbody plates are about the last ting that I have to restore on my little project...yes it's almost all done except for the actual body paint and then it's reassembly time!

I didn't do these plates while I was phosphating my other parts because like you say, it's a pain to find a pot big enough to submerge them in. I was actually thinking of just painting them because if done right, the chances of detecting paint in that area is pretty slim. My problem is that I'll know that it's wrong.

My firewall shields are plastic but they went to metal later in 69. My underbody shields are metal as I think they all were.

[Chuck S.]

Re: OK...Here You Go, Gregster...

"...I was actually thinking of just painting them because if done right, the chances of detecting paint in that area is pretty slim. My problem is that I'll know that it's wrong..."

That's a large painted area...it'll be really hard to get them "right". Your premise will be true for lay people, even most car people, OR maybe even NCRS judges if the 68-69 chassis judging sheets have no specific reference for assigning deducts to the underbody heat shielding. I have judged 68-69 chassis before, and I do not remember any specific reference to the heat shielding...but my memory is not worth much these days; I'm thinking it has to be there.

If the judging sheet asks the judges to look at the heat shielding, you WILL have a deduct; probably minor. A minor deduct will not hurt too bad, but as you said, YOU will know...Dollars per point; Where do want to spend your money?

[Chuck S.]

Re: OK...Here You Go, Gregster...

"...I was actually thinking of just painting them because if done right, the chances of detecting paint in that area is pretty slim. My problem is that I'll know that it's wrong..."

That's a large painted area...it'll be really hard to get them "right". Your premise will be true for lay people, even most car people, OR maybe even NCRS judges if the 68-69 chassis judging sheets have no specific reference for assigning deducts to the underbody heat shielding. I have judged 68-69 chassis before, and I do not remember any specific reference to the heat shielding...but my memory is not worth much these days; I'm thinking it has to be there.

If the judging sheet asks the judges to look at the heat shielding, you WILL have a deduct; probably minor. A minor deduct will not hurt too bad, but as you said, YOU will know...Dollars per point; Where do want to spend your money?

[Greg L.]

Re: OK...Here You Go, Gregster...

"Underbody heat shields & various mounting bracket"
3 for originality
3 for condition

I wouldn't paint then so much as with a black spray bomb. BUT, lightly sandblasted metal has a similar texture and color as grey phosphate and with a little "tinting" to darken it and then lightly oiled I'm pretty sure I could get them to pass in this area. It's almost worth the challenge now. Even if "something" was detected the point hit would be less that if they were obviously painted.

I wouldn't try this on something easily accessible though like the hood latches. Well I might but what's the point? ...phosphating is soooo easy to do.