Leaf Spring Installation - NCRS Discussion Boards

Leaf Spring Installation

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  • Kent K.
    Extremely Frequent Poster
    • December 1, 1982
    • 1139

    #16
    Re: Leaf Spring Installation

    Tom, Your frame looks great.

    I read all the responses and have used the wood and chain method. Suggest you check the strength of threaded rod, chain, cable or whatever is used to verify a safety factor of 200%. This is conservative to say the least. Your and your son's lives are worth much more than that.

    One thing you might consider having is a safety link in case the primary method breaks. Something like use a heavy chain wrapped around the frame and spring when jacking with another chain method.

    Good luck,
    Kent
    Kent
    1967 327/300 Convert. w/ Air - Duntoved in 1994
    1969 427/435 Coupe - 1 previous owner
    2006 Coupe - Driver & Fun Car !!!
    NCM Founder - Member #718

    Comment

    • Patrick H.
      Beyond Control Poster
      • December 1, 1989
      • 11641

      #17
      Re: Frame stands

      Tom,

      If you wouldn't mind posting links to better pictures of your frame adapters, or better yet plans for them, I sure would appreciate that.

      Neat idea.

      Patrick
      Vice-Chairman (West), Michigan Chapter NCRS
      71 "deer modified" coupe
      72 5-Star Bowtie / Duntov coupe. https://www.flickr.com/photos/124695...57649252735124
      2008 coupe
      Available stickers: Engine suffix code, exhaust tips & mufflers, shocks, AIR diverter valve broadcast code.

      Comment

      • Joe C.
        Expired
        • August 31, 1999
        • 4598

        #18
        Re: I almost Killed My Son Trying That!!!!!

        Keith,

        I'm sorry to hear about your misadventure, and very glad to hear that nobody was injured. I suppose that we've all had our share of close calls, and one can never be too careful. Of course, there is always inherent danger when compressing any spring, as the action stores quite a bit of potential energy (PE).

        In my case, I was certain that the bar was perfectly plumb, by carefully measuring with a plumb bob, before applying pressure. The joists above the ceiling are 2"x8", on 16" centers. They are sturdy, and rigid. If you look closely at the photo, you'll notice that I inserted a piece of sheet metal between the lower blocking, and the pinch bar. The upper blocking was contacted by the bull end of the bar, which measures about 1 1/2" diameter. There was no chance of my splitting the 2"x6" upper blocking. As I recall, the force applied was not very strong, and it did not strain my garage ceiling, at all. Further, it made no impression/deformation on the surface of the gypsum board.

        Joe

        Comment

        • Tom L.
          Expired
          • May 7, 2007
          • 438

          #19
          Re: Frame stands

          Patrick,

          I can't take credit for the idea. The stands belong to the body shop that top coated the frame. They used them to paint the frame and were kind enough to let me borrow them until I install my suspension. I don't have plans, but better pictures are below.

          Tom




          Attached Files

          Comment

          • Tom L.
            Expired
            • May 7, 2007
            • 438

            #20
            another picture *NM*

            Attached Files

            Comment

            • Ray C.
              Extremely Frequent Poster
              • June 30, 2001
              • 1132

              #21
              Re: Leaf Spring Installation

              Installing rear leaf spring on a C-2; You will need two straps, two chains, two c-clamps, some protective wrap and two floor jacks. I looped the straps over the rear cross member and attached the to the chains. I looped the chains under the floor jacks and took out as much slack as possible. As the jack rises, the straps and chains keep the frame from rising and the spring will flatten. You can then tighten the differential plate bolts and install the spring bolts. I also used C-clamps to prevent the jacks from moving on the spring. I protected the spring paint with some leather. (1963 Corvette)

              I have also used the threaded rod method with the body off the frame. I use beam clamps on the end of the threaded rod and a locking nut. I attached the beam clamps to the spring after placing the rod through the hole in the frame. I use a couple steel plates with a larger hole that the threaded rods slipped through and placed the plates on top of the frame. (place a protective material between frame and steel plates) Tighten the nut and the spring will flatten. I used a couple ratchet straps and c-clamps for added safety. I have a picture of this process, but can not find at this time. (1965 Corvette)

              Hope this help!
              Ray #36314




              Attached Files
              Ray Carney
              1961 Sateen Silver 270-HP
              1961 Fawn Beige 315-HP

              Comment

              • Ray C.
                Extremely Frequent Poster
                • June 30, 2001
                • 1132

                #22
                Re: Leaf Spring Installation

                Addition to the above Post!

                I never tighten or torque bolts until I have a full load on the car, you can damage the differential mounting ears.

                Ray
                Ray Carney
                1961 Sateen Silver 270-HP
                1961 Fawn Beige 315-HP

                Comment

                • Page C.
                  Very Frequent User
                  • February 1, 1979
                  • 802

                  #23
                  Re: Leaf Spring Installation

                  See NCRS Restorer Vol 34 #1 page 15. This is the Summer 2007 issue.

                  Comment

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