I would like your thoughts on powder coating a C2 frame. Thanks Phil 8063 PS the frame is MINT MINT MINT!!!
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Re: To Powder Coat or Not Your thoughts
Phil...
I would not powdercoat the frame. Not necessarily because that wasn't the original method used, but because it usually comes out too thick and if it chips or is damaged it comes off in large pieces and is very hard to touch up. There are so many other brands/types of paints to choose from. With such a nice frame, why not paint it with conventional material and not have to worry about these and other problems. If your restoration revolves around originality I would not powdercoat for that reason as well. -
Re: To Powder Coat or Not Your thoughts
No offense to Rob but I think that an experienced powdercoater can give you an awesome finished product. I have never had any powdercoat chips or problems. With paint, it scratches, dulls, chips, and isn't very chemical resistant. Also, anytime I have ever tried to bolt one part to another the paint cracks like an eggshell and chips off around the bolt and nut contact areas.
On ares with pre-existing rust pits I will powdercoat it, sand it with 220 grit to fill in the pits, re-powdercoat it however many times needed (to fill in the pits) and then put a final powdercoat on it with beautiful results.
Like Rob said, you can get powdercoat to thick and un-natural looking but thats where good powdercoater experience kicks in along with you knowing what the final appearance is supposed to look like/resemble.
There are however some situations where powdercoating isn't an option. Like on shocks, waterpumps, or wherever parts have seals or fluids. I'm sure there are other exceptions also.
I feel very confident that you can definetely make powdercoat look as good and perform hundreds of times better than paint without people detecting one from the other. Just my opinion.Comment
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Re: To Powder Coat or Not Your thoughts
Phil
It's yours, do what YOU want, not what other people think. It's not like the next guy can't take it off!
TerryComment
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Re: To Powder Coat or Not Your thoughts
I agree with Justin (no offense to Rob).
I powder coat every frame and black part on my restorations. There are many different percentages of gloss that can be used, as not all black pieces are the same sheen. The process I use is the following:
* Sandblast
* Iron Phosphate Bath (critical to prevent chips from becoming peeling as mentioned before)
* Powder Coat
It's a much longer lasting material than any paint that you'll use. You can get a black that looks close to original in sheen and you'll love it, in my opinion, because it will last longer than you will. I have codes for a black that will look good on any C1 or later. I used it on a 68 435hp conv and got Gold in 2005.
Experienced shops will not put it on too thick. I have a friend who has a shoip in Anderson, IN who does excellent work. Not sure where you are located.
Good luck!
BrettComment
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Re: To Powder Coat or Not Your thoughts
I'm glad to hear that good results can be obtained with powder coating by a good shop. I've had some poor results with regard to fit and function with parts that were not done properly...I had an oil filter cannister that had the coating so thick on the upper edge it actually wouldn't fit in place. Guess like everything else, it's all in the skill of who applies it. Thanks for the update on your results.Comment
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Re: To Powder Coat or Not Your thoughts
I recommend Powder coating the frame, unless you are restoring to the perfect car, as delivered from the factory...and for a solid axle,I would select a good paint that protects against corrosion that looks flat and rough. not the asphalt-based paint A.O. smith used...(two cents)Comment
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Electrical grounding
I've heard that sometimes that grounding can be a problem. Also self tapping bolts may not fit in there holes. Anyone have these problems before.Comment
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Re: Electrical grounding
Mike....
Grounding can be problem, unless the coating is spot removed under the bolt. Best to ground to the engine block if possible.Comment
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Re: To Powder Coat or Not Your thoughts
Dennis, just out of curiosity why do you recommend a flat and rough paint for a solid axle? Everything I read says a poor quality gloss black and semi-gloss. Plus, wouldn't the sticky asphalt-based paint be glossy until it collects dust?Comment
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Re: To Powder Coat or Not Your thoughts
The holes with threads should be plugged with rubber plugs. A good shop will have these plugs. Otherwise, you'll be tapping each hole before you can thread a bolt into it. I have a very good sheen of black that is great for C1's. I can give you the code. Also there should be masking done on machined surfaces before you powder coat. This is done with a green high heat tape.Comment
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Re: To Powder Coat or Not Your thoughts
Phil, I just finished a complete resto of my 54 in September. I chose to powdercoat from recommendations of others that have gone through restos and I highly recommend it. Get the shades right and find a good coater and I think you'll be pleased as I am with the results.
Be careful coating contact surfaces on the front end components like the steering knuckles and a arm threads. I assisted in the masking process and was glad I did. One area of concern was the sway bar(s). Don't coat the area that the rubber bushing contacts the bar nor the leaf springs. Also, you'll have to sand away any electrical ground points.
The only down side I saw was that It's very hard to chemically remove this coating. Most sandblasters don't like to remove it as well.
JoeComment
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THANKS GUYS for your input!!!! *NM*
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Re: Electrical grounding
Have seen a couple of UK restored Corvettes (the island nation is notorious for high humidity and subsequent rust/pit that powder coating fills) with such problems. On one car the horns refused to honk which was a result of the mounting holes NOT being masked prior to powder coat application. This resulted in a lack of grounding continuity.
Bottom line, frames CAN be powder coated without problem(s) BUT it takes some experience/forethought as which specific areas need to me masked to prevent attaching fastener fit + electrical continuity problems...Comment
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Re: Electrical grounding
I have never masked any grounding areas. Just plug the threaded holes with a rubber plug before powder coating. By doing this method, I have never had any issues.
Will never paint a frame again...ever.Comment
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