a couple of questions

[mike hom]

The following regards my 65 coupe w/396 engine: 1. How do I restore the appearance of my alternator? The engine compartment is immaculate, but the alternator looks really crummy. I have tried solvents to no avail. What's the best answer here? Send it to somebody or how do I do it myself?

2. Everything I have read says to check for vacuum leaks with carb cleaner. Since this stufff is highly flamable, I am wondering why soapy water or something less volitile wouldn't work. I have inconsistent idle and I figure it must be vacuum.

3. I was looking to replace my fuel filter (gf416 is on the car now) and the only place I found it was at a price of over $200. Can this really be and if so, can I service it or should I just buy a cheaper replacement and save the gf416 for judging?

thanks in advance . . .

[Joe L.]

Re: a couple of questions

Mike----

I offer the following comments regarding your questions:

1) Alternator Case Refinishing

The best way to refinish the case on an alternator is with the use of a caustic (alkaline)chemical dip. The problem is, you have to be very skillful with the use of chemicals or you'll end up with more problems than you solve. Consequently, it's generally impractical for the hobbyist to do this operation using a caustic dip. John Pirkle can refinish your case for you(and restore the entire alternator if you wish). Also, Corvette Craft/ZO6 Productions near Daytona, Florida, if they're still in business, specialized in all forms of aluminum refinishing. ASL in Carson City, NV used to do this work, too, but last I checked, they were out of business, temporarily or permanently.

If you want to tackle it yourself, there are a few things that you could try safely. First, you could use a carburetor DIP cleaner like Berrymans or Mechanix Brand. These work very well on aluminum, particularly if they're fresh and haven't been used to previously clean 100 carburetor bodies. These are a carbolic acid-based cleaner and won't harm your alternator case no matter how long you leave it in the solution. However, this is VERY TOXIC STUFF. Use only in well ventilated areas and USE GLOVES. If you get any of the solution on your skin, you won't be able to wash all of the smell off and it'll persist for days. Very nauseating, too. Also, DISPOSE OF THE SOLUTION PROPERLY.

Second, you could try a method that many fellow NCRS members will cringe over, but I'll mention it anyway. Bead blast, or better yet walnut shell blast, the case. Then apply a VERY thin, MIST coat of satin finish, clear urethane spray paint. I think this looks very original AND you have the bonus of the case remaining stain-free for a long time due to the sealing effect of the paint. I think that this is particularly practical for a car that gets driven. My suggestion, though, is try this on a sacrificial case first to see if you can get the technique down and if you like the results.

2) Vacuum Leak Test

The use of solvent-based carburetor cleaner or similar product is ESSENTIAL to the vacuum leak test. That's because what you're looking for is an increase in engine idle speed which occurs when the solvent is sucked into the area of the vacuum leak. Water or any other non-flamable material would accomplish nothing.

3) Fuel Filter

Reproductions of your original fuel filter are VERY expensive, as you've found out. That's the way it is, unfortunately. I recommend that you do as you suggest. Save the 416 for judging purposes, only. You don't need to use a $200 SERVICE fuel filter.

[Gary Schisler]

Re: a couple of questions

I have used commercial-type carb cleaner and lots of elbow grease, with 000 (triple ought) steel wool with good results. Soak your case in solvent for an hour or so, try some good old fashioned scrubbing with the steel wool. If you don't get good results, put it back in the solvent to stay a bit longer. This wasn't that difficult. If ASL in Sparks, NV is out of business, you can disregard the second half of this message. They make an excellent aluminum protector that, if applied properly, is just about invisible.

[Jack H.]

Re: a couple of questions

(1) Restoring alternator is tricky. Senior judges not only look for clean

bright original, but check date codes on diodes and look closely at the

'skin' of the aluminum case. Sand/bead blasting the case alters the

original casting texture. Several folks advertise in NCRS Driveline for

alternator rebuild (John Pirkle for one) who do an EXCELLENT job.

(2) Use of carb cleaner to check for vacuum leaks is routine. Do it outdoors

and don't go 'hog wild' with qty. A carefully placed spritz will rev

engine a few 100 RPM at/near a leak as the combustible is sucked into

intake/combustion chambers.

(3) NOBODY is reproducing a 'correct' GF-416. NOS originals go for the

price you quote. Paragon sells a repro that sorta/kinda looks like the

original, it's inexpensive and useful as a driver and/or point deduct

judgable replacement. Only '65 396 cars (Corvette and HP Chevy passenger

used the GF-416) and it's rumored AC farmed out the low volume build as

a purchased assy. Keep your real McCoy for judging and put a repro or

substitue on for driving. You can also, change out the hard to find

original acorn bowls on your 3124 and replace them with later Holley

units with the built-in filter/screens (then you have to change the

top fuel feed lines)....

[Gene M.]

Re: a couple of questions

Mike, If you are going to do the alt. your self you can optain dated diodes from different folks that restore them professionaly. If you press them out, clean them up, and replate using a home plating kit then they just have to date stamp them. Much cheaper plus the leads are correct. The correct rear case bearing is still available in GM package at parts stores. The original are Torrington marked. Most professional restored alternators have INA bearings which are service replacements.