Strut Rod Removal

[Mark S.]

I am in the process of removing the driver's side trailing arm, half shaft and strut rod from my '67 small block for a rebuild. I did the passenger side last year and had very few problems.

I need help removing the strut rod from the differential end. The strut rod is bent so I plan on replacing it. I can rotate the camber adjustment bolt but I just can't remove it. The bushing may be seized onto the bolt.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

[Joe L.]

Re: Strut Rod Removal

Mark------

Have you tried using impactive force (i.e. a hammer) on the bolt's end? It's hard to imagine that you'd be able to turn the bolt but not be able to drive it out. If the bolt was corrosion-seized to the bushing center, you'd not be able to turn it.

If all else fails, you may need to remove the entire strut rod bracket and both strut rods as an assembly and press the bolt out in an hydraulic press.

[Mark S.]

Thank You Joe...

I have been rotating the camber adjustment bolt and pushing on the end with a 3' pry bar, to no avail. With the leaf spring in the car it is difficult to get a good swing with a hammer at the end of the bolt.

If you were going to cut the strut rod out at the differential end, what would you cut and with what tool?

[Joe L.]

Re: Thank You Joe...

Mark------

I would probably use a Sawzall with a nice sharp blade. However, there is some risk of doing some "collateral" damage to the strut rod bracket. I realize that it's hard to swing a hammer with much force on the end of the bolt. You should be able to make up a long extension, though, that you can place on the end of the bolt and which, due to its length, allows you to swing a hammer freely.

[Jordan S.]

Re: Thank You Joe...

Mark,

Another option is a small air hammer. I got an inexpensive one on-line for about $35. Hook it up to your compressor with a blunt ended attachment. It works like a mini-jack hammer. You'd be surprised how well it will push the bolt out even without a dead-on straight shot.

[Chuck R.]

Re: Be careful about hitting the bolt

Don't know about C-2s but if the bolt is running through a bushing, striking the end of the bolt with any kind of brute force will only serve to swell the end of the bolt even tighter against the bushing walls.

If you can get a sawzall blade in between the strut rod bracket and the face/end of the strut rod, then that would be the way to go. Just keep the rpms down and use either cutting oil or WD-40 to keep the blade lubricated. Just because a sawzall can do 12000 cpm, that is usually a death blow to fresh blades. Half speed is a good base line.

If you want to go a less violent route, I would pull the bracket and strut rod and immerse it in a pail of light oil such as kerosene and let it set for a couple of days.

Of course my personal favorite is a cutting torch in the hands of a skilled handler who could have it out in less than a minute.

Chuck

[Mark S.]

Re: Be careful about hitting the bolt

Thank you very much for the very detailed advice. It is very helpful. I have the sawzall ready to go as a last resort. I may end up removing the camber bracket from the differential like you suggested.

When I rotate the camber adj bolt, the strut rod bushing rotates with it. I'm going to try to grab the edge of the bushing with vice grips and rotate the camber adj bolt and see if I can break it loose.