Installing a new oil pump on a rebuilt engine on an engine stand. Questions:
1. Chevy used a bolt with a lock washer to secure the oil pump to the rear main cap. I'm using the ARP stud. It comes with a thick flat washer. Seems odd to me that you wouldn't want a lock washer there. Should I Lock-tite the nut to the stud? I did Lock-tite the stud to the cap. There's not enough room to double nut it. I don't think you'd want that nut falling off.
2. How the heck do you get the pickup tube into the pump body? I know it's supposed to be a tight interference fit. But that tube doesn't want to go in there. And after it's in, I'll need to move it around in order to adjust its depth in the pan. That's going to be difficult if the fit is that tight. (I've got a jobbie from Jegs or Summit that bolts onto the pump body and clamps onto the tube to keep it from falling out. I don't have the ability to do brazing or welding.)
1. Chevy used a bolt with a lock washer to secure the oil pump to the rear main cap. I'm using the ARP stud. It comes with a thick flat washer. Seems odd to me that you wouldn't want a lock washer there. Should I Lock-tite the nut to the stud? I did Lock-tite the stud to the cap. There's not enough room to double nut it. I don't think you'd want that nut falling off.
2. How the heck do you get the pickup tube into the pump body? I know it's supposed to be a tight interference fit. But that tube doesn't want to go in there. And after it's in, I'll need to move it around in order to adjust its depth in the pan. That's going to be difficult if the fit is that tight. (I've got a jobbie from Jegs or Summit that bolts onto the pump body and clamps onto the tube to keep it from falling out. I don't have the ability to do brazing or welding.)
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