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Oil Pump Installation Questions

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  • Christopher R.
    Extremely Frequent Poster
    • March 31, 1975
    • 1599

    Oil Pump Installation Questions

    Installing a new oil pump on a rebuilt engine on an engine stand. Questions:

    1. Chevy used a bolt with a lock washer to secure the oil pump to the rear main cap. I'm using the ARP stud. It comes with a thick flat washer. Seems odd to me that you wouldn't want a lock washer there. Should I Lock-tite the nut to the stud? I did Lock-tite the stud to the cap. There's not enough room to double nut it. I don't think you'd want that nut falling off.

    2. How the heck do you get the pickup tube into the pump body? I know it's supposed to be a tight interference fit. But that tube doesn't want to go in there. And after it's in, I'll need to move it around in order to adjust its depth in the pan. That's going to be difficult if the fit is that tight. (I've got a jobbie from Jegs or Summit that bolts onto the pump body and clamps onto the tube to keep it from falling out. I don't have the ability to do brazing or welding.)
  • Joe L.
    Beyond Control Poster
    • February 1, 1988
    • 43203

    #2
    Re: Oil Pump Installation Questions

    chris------

    1. I don't think that a lockwasher was originally used on the oil pump bolt. I know, for sure, it wasn't used on later small blocks. It's possible that it was used on earlier, though. I don't recall it, however. In any event, you don't need a lockwasher (they don't do much, if any, good, anyway). Use the ARP stud with supplied nut and hardened and ground flatwasher. I use a little Locktite BLUE on the both threaded ends of the stud. The Locktite will work FAR, FAR better than any lockwasher. Actually, I don't think that either the lockwasher or the Locktite is necessary, but I use it anyway.

    2) Assembling the the oil pump pick-up screen to the pump is always a challenge. I suggest beveling the end of the tube in a grinder. Then, put the pick-up in the freezer overnight. Meanwhile, apply a little grease to the orifice in the pump. Lastly, drive the pick-up into the pump quickly after removing it from the freezer. There is a special tool available for this which greatly assists in this process. It contacts the raised ring on the tube and makes driving the tube easier. It's very inexpensive.

    After the tube is fully seated in the pump, you will still be able to move it slightly to adjust the position relative to the oil pan. However, you want to get the position "close" when you drive it in.

    The special aftermarket bracket that you have will avoid the need for any tack brazing or welding of the tube after installation. It's a good "safety measure" and easily installed.
    In Appreciation of John Hinckley

    Comment

    • Joe L.
      Beyond Control Poster
      • February 1, 1988
      • 43203

      #3
      Addendum w/Photo

      Attached is a photos of both a homemade oil pump tube installer (top) and a purchased tool.

      The homemade one can easily be made from a piece of THICKWALL pipe of 5/8" ID. It's not a great tool if you use it a lot because it's not hardened. However, for just occasional use, it will work fine.

      The purchased tool is very inexpensive, but I can't tell you, offhand, where I got this one. I think that it might have been Kent-Moore, though.




      Attached Files
      In Appreciation of John Hinckley

      Comment

      • Joe R.
        Extremely Frequent Poster
        • March 1, 2002
        • 1356

        #4
        Re: Oil Pump Installation Questions

        Hi Chris:

        Getting the pickup tube installed in the pump is pain, especially since you want to have the pickup aligned at the proper height off the oil pan floor before you drive the pickup tube all the way in.

        As Joe Lucia recommended, I suggest that you file a slight bevel on the end of the tube so that it will insert about half way by hand. Then position it carefully at the height you want (about 1/4 inch off the bottom of the pan) and put scribe marks on the tube and the pump housing to show the desired rotational position.

        Now comes the challenging part, which is driving the pickup tube home without damaging either the tube or the pump, and while also maintaining the desired rotational alignment.

        Attached is a photo of the tool I made for supporting the full circumference of the tube under the raised ridge. I supported the tube in this fixture, placed the assenbly on top of an open vise for support, and tapped on the oil pump to drive the tube straight in, while keeping an eye on the alignment marks to make sure I retained the desired position. I suppose that a small arbor press could also be considered for the final insertion.

        I would be happy to loan you this fixture if you want to use it.




        Attached Files

        Comment

        • Clem Z.
          Expired
          • January 1, 2006
          • 9427

          #5
          Re: Addendum w/Photo

          use a hose clamp around the installation tool to keep it in place while you are hammering. be careful not to install the stud too deep and put pressure on to the bearing insert. NEVER use lock washers inside a engine as they can break and go thru the engine. use lock nuts ot loc tite. i have seen these last 2 items ruin a engine

          Comment

          • Christopher R.
            Extremely Frequent Poster
            • March 31, 1975
            • 1599

            #6
            Re: Oil Pump Installation Questions

            Thanks for your kind offer, Joe. I may be calling you. First I'm going to try to find some 5/8" ID pipe.

            Comment

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