63 seat belt buckle

[Rainer S.]

I just started the restoration of my seat belts. Decided to do it myself, after being given prices of $500 (and I have to have the belt sewing myself) to $950 for a perfect set.
I am trying to get the knureled shafts out of the chromed latch buckle. How do I get it out ?
In order to re-chrome the part, I should remove the slider. Or do I leave it inplace, when it is being re-cromed ?
Also, where do I buy the closed belting material ?

Rainer

[Tom H.]

Re: 63 seat belt buckle

Hi Rainer ! I just went out and looked at my belts. Not real sure how to get that shaft out, other than it looks like it would just tap out one end to release it and vise versa to re install after you line up the shaft. As far as the belt matereial goes. There is somebody in the last couple issues of the Driveline offering belt material. I don't have one here at home to give you the name. They have a large display ad though.

When you do get your paddle buckles done........... what I've found to keep them from getting scratched up is to place a cheap set of wristband "sweatbands" over them. Then they sit right on the console and don't get all fingered up and scratched.

[Rainer S.]

Re: 63 seat belt buckle

Tom,

I was able to dis-assy the buckle alright, I just need to know, how to remove the knureled sliding shaft, which the belt wraps around.
I may just tell the chrome source to chrome it along with the body as an assy, he just has to be sure, to connect the ground to it, since it is loose in the body.
I have the add from Ssnake-Oyl out of the "Driveline".
Will give them a call on Mon for the webbing material etc. Might have them do the whole thing. I was just stunned by the prices I was given by others.
I attached a pic of the part.
Also, If anybody can tell me, if the (2) buckles are both correct for early (dec 62 build cars.) I can't make out the smaller "Irving" stamping. Maybe, if I sandblast it a little, I will be able to read it...

Rainer

[Rainer S.]

Re: 63 seat belt buckle

Here is a pic of both buckles.

rainer

[Andy C.]

Re: 63 seat belt buckle

Hello Rainer; I do believe we have talked about the restoration of 63 seat belts which I do. I take the webbing bars out by milling one end until the bar can come out. I then TIG weld the end to replace the metal I milled off. i then Grind the welds to make the webbing bar look like it should and I make sure the overall length is on the money or else you will not be able to get the bar back in! The buckels you have are NOT correct for an Early 63 corvette. The one on the left is correct for a Mid 62 corvette because it's a CS-5000 buckle. The one on the right is a LATE 63 being a large IC-5000 buckle. You need the small IC-5000 buckles to be correct for your car. You do not wnat the IRVIN small IC-5000 buckles as these are Late 62. You want the IRVING small IC-5000 buckles and the 51-198A labels and early stitch pattern. Call me if you have any futher questions and i will be glad to help you. Thanks, Andy Cannizzo-732-583-5378

[Jeff A.]

Re: 63 seat belt buckle

Charlie Charlie ( Seat belt Sity ) at 908 719-2354. He may have the correct buckles and can give you a heads up on replating and other seat belt work. He dosen't have Email.

Jeff

[Jack H.]

Oh!

"Knurled sliding shaft"...you meant the belt tension roller!!!!

It's simple, they're held captive by interference fit. You need to improvise a tool to 'spread' the sides of the buckle housing and then 'flip' the tension roller at a roughly 45-degree angle (one end toward the rear of the housing, the other end toward the front of the housing) and it'll simply drop out of the retaining slots.

One way to improvise a tool is to clamp one side of the buckle housing in a padded vice while you bend/spred the opposite side with a pair of padded pliers/channel locks taking your time to SLOWLY spread the opposite sides of the housing.

On plating, two comments:

(1) The tension roller was zinc/cad plated to retain sharp tips and bite the belt fabric. It's NOT polished chrome...

(2) Pick your plater with caution for re-chroming the buckle housing. MANY wind up polishing out all or most all of the embossed ID marks when they re-chrome and that'll cost you originality points since the judges want to read the emboss on the buckle!

[Rainer S.]

Re: Oh!

Thanks John, for setting me straight on the description of the "belt tentioning roller". Also, about removing it, etc. I knew there was an easy way, just didn't know, how...

Rainer

[Bernard M.]

Re: 63 seat belt buckle

Andy,
These appear to me to be the same as those you describe as late 63. What other year(s) would they be applicable for? What should I be looking for to be as "correct" as possible for my 56? Regards, Bernie Myers

[Joseph T.]

56 seat belts

Bernie..as you know seat belts were not an option in 56..however many 56/57 cars had them installed after taking delivery.

Below are the Rupert Parachute Co. Wheeling, Ill. seat belts from my 57 Nassau/Daytona car built in Nov. 56.

A former 57 of mine #4353 had seatbelts with a similar push thru type but square buckle...and black belt material.

If you are going to install seat belts in your 56 to wear..I would suggest a more modern quick release type buckle. I drove #4353 for 20 years and was always concerned that in the event of an accident..I would not be able to unbuckle the push through seat belt.

Joe

[Bernard M.]

Re: 56 seat belts

Joe, Thanks for the response. I was under the impression that seatbelts were available as a dealer installed option beginning in 1956. Anything is better than what I have now, which is "as delivered" (NONE).